Couple questions about SBR 3500 clutch kit?

[EdwardNorth]

Hey guys,

I've finally decided to complete my circle of mods for complete support of my EVOIII 16G setup. And as much as I want to preserve the car, staying on the stock clutch just won't cut it, especially since I want my Talon to be a low-mid 12 second daily driver.

Anyways, I *was* pretty much set on the ACT 2100. I wanted to stay at the 2100 level because it doesn't put nearly the amount of stress on the crank that the 2600 does, and it would still allow me to meet my goals. But after reading about all the problems with ACT discs popping springs and ruining transmissions, I looked into other options, and came upon the new SBR 3500 clutch kit.

My first question is, how does it compare to the ACT 2100 and 2600 in terms of stress put on the crank and/or tranny? I'd like to avoid provoking the CW beast as much as possible, and thus I don't want a clutch that will put an equal amount of wear on all the components as the ACT 2600 does.

My second question is, are the SBR clutches meant to last a long time? If I continue to baby my car as much as I do now (pretty much 97% of the time), can I expect this clutch to last quite a few 10's of thousands of miles? I know people have gotten 50-60k plus out of their ACT's so I want to compare this also.

My final question is, how much torque is the SBR 3500 rated to hold? Would it be more than sufficient for my setup and goals?

I did search for as much info on the SBR clutch as I could, but right now info seems very limited. Any input will be greatly appreciated.

Other than that, I just ordered my FIC 650's, S-AFCII, and dsmlogger today so once I get that stuff in, I'll look to get the clutch and get it in. Then I think my setup will be pretty much complete.

Thanks guys!

 

[AMS Eric #2]

I can't recall ever seeing an ACT clutch disk popping the springs out. The problem I see most with ACT clutches, is the plate in the "pressure plate" warping. The inner edge always draws in away from the disk, eventually leading to only the outer edge of the disk coming in contact with the pressure plate. This is probibly common with most stock style clutches, although I see it more with ACT's as they tend to be pushed alot harder and see more heat exposure than most.

Most people misunderstand the theory behind "clutch pressure" and the effects it has on crankwalk. The only time any pressure is being exerted onto your thrust bearing from the clutch is when you are pushing the TOB onto the diaphram to release the clutch. The heavier the diaphram, the more force "pedal pressure" it takes to move the diaphram. The ways to get around this would be to make changes in the diaphram design and pivot points, which the stock design limits greatly. A stock flywheel style clutch is only going to be as good as the very minor adjustments in pivot points allowed, friction material, and amount of pressure induced by the diaphram. 2 of 3 which tend to have adverse effects on your drivetrain. The only true answer is a totally new design, like a multiplate clutch setup, or a setup using springs and release levers like the Ram clutch design, which they STILL havent released for the 4g63!

 

[daren_p]

I don't have experience with the SBR clutch but I have pretty much the same setup/goals as you and I'm going to get the centerforce dualfriction clutch. Have you looked into this? I aslo want to keep my 7 bolt for a few years thats why I started looking at this clutch. Puts a little less pressure on the thrust bearing compared to the act2100 and has greater holding power 400 ft/lb is what RRE told me, & they recommend it over the act. Also can hold up to more hard lauches compared to the 2100. The only thing with this clutch is that you have to make sure you follow their break in time & that you have the correct step height on your flywheel.