Couple more general engine rebuild questions.

[kristmen]

So anyway I trashed my engine the other day.

Click here if you care to see the mpg to hear the mess

Anyway I have a 90 short block sitting I decided to rebuild and I need some suggestions on what to do at the machine shop.

I went into a local shop called Millwood Auto and they said they would clean, hone, deck if needed and retap all my bolt holes for $175ish. They would also micropolish my crank for $30 and if I wanted to do a balance shaft elim they can cut my stock shaft so the weights are gone so its still supported. The machine shop guy said its better then using a stubby shaft when doing the bal sheft elim. Anyway the shaft work would be another $25.

Now if the cylenders are out of round he said $75 to bore all 4 and they can barrow a torque plate from there sister shop if so requested.

How does this sound for the work? Good deal? I found another shop a bit cheaper but they dont have access to a torque plate.

If the cylenders are not out of rounds I'm cool just going with stock bore pistons right?

I'm sorta working on a budget here. My plan was as fallowing:

Get the block work done, crank polished, get 2G standard bore pistons and use my 1G big rods after they are machined. Then I also bought all factory mitsubishi parts such as the front case, gasket set, bearings, timing belt parts and such.

Anything else I need to know or should do?

Also the machine shop said they can pressure test the block for another $50 bucks. When I pulled the 90 a part it had coolent in the pan so I'm wondering if I should have it pressure tested or not. Opinions?

 

[Defiant]

if I wanted to do a balance shaft elim they can cut my stock shaft so the weights are gone so its still supported. The machine shop guy said its better then using a stubby shaft when doing the bal sheft elim. Anyway the shaft work would be another $25.

Except part of the intent of eliminating the balance shaft is to do away with five bearings, and eliminating their opportunity to fail and their load on the oiling system. It's not just a matter of the revolving weight, it's that the shaft is turning twice crank speed.

Now if the cylenders are out of round he said $75 to bore all 4 and they can barrow a torque plate from there sister shop if so requested.

I'd want more detail on that. I'd want to see the plate torqued-up. Not that I don't trust shops I don't know or anything.

I found another shop a bit cheaper but they dont have access to a torque plate.

I'm not convinced they're necessary. Factories don't use them when they build the car.

Also the machine shop said they can pressure test the block for another $50 bucks. When I pulled the 90 a part it had coolent in the pan so I'm wondering if I should have it pressure tested or not. Opinions?

I'd skip that. It's tough to keep water out of the pan when disassembling.

 

[kristmen]

Well part of my reason for having some faith in this shop is that this is the shop TRE uses here locally and they send alot of people there and highly recommend them. Others locally also recommend them and I havent heard anything bad yet. Infact everyone says they do great work.

Other then that I dont have anything to base my faith on.

As far as the water in the pan well I got the engine as a long block. The engine was out of the car and sitting at my house for like 6 months before I ripped it apart. When I pulled the head I found it was plugged with a crystalized shit that looks like stop leak.

Timing belt appeared snapped too. It was broken and looks to have been pulled until it snapped or some shit.

I dont know how the fluid got in the pan. Coulda teleported in there for all I know.

I just dont want to get the engine back together and find out something isnt right and have to start all over and find out I wasted a bunch of money at the machine shop is all.

This is my first rebuild and I'm very paranoid.