A couple (more) timing questions...

[Araesk]

So I'm well aware that this horse has been beaten to the ground, China, and back and I've been trying to avoid making a post since I know there are oh so many, but I just have a few quick questions related to timing.

1) I happened to take the WP off, and wiggled it free of its gasket, but only drained the radiator so WP and block were still full of coolant. Well, it poured down the side of my block, doing a nice job to even get in my alternator (hopefully not fried), and my new harmonic balancer belt, pulley, harmonic sprocket and crankshaft sprocket. Should this make any kind effect on the quality of any thin? (I'm aware I should probably replace the oil now since some coolant probably got in there).

2) Can I start my car after I install the new timing belt, but with no WP, AC compressor, PS, and Alternator pulleys hooked up just to make sure that it is in time? Note: only brief start to make sure it sounds proper so if I did manage to mess up I do not have to take all of that off again.

Thank you for your time on my probably already asked at some time questions that I couldn't find.

 

[pauleyman]

Cleanup the coolant, move ahead.
Why would it have gotten into the oil?
No, do not start it.
If you're not comfortable with your ability to do this you should not attempt it and certainly not have a plan to fail. Do you take secondary steps when you cook a meal in case you burn it?
I had nothing more than hand tools and the FACTORY manual. No videos, no vfaq, no forums. They did not exist yet. I knew it was right, I buttoned it up and started it. I did not hope, wish, or cross my fingers. No need. With the resources available nobody on these forums should have any doubt.

 

[Araesk]

I'm just awfully paranoid and pessimistic is all so that's why I want to be able to change it should it be required. Everything is still at TDC and when it spins, I count how many complete revolutions. I'm confident in my ability, just paranoid. I have Jay's tools. All I have left to do is put on the new tensioner pulley to 2.6 ft/lbs., remount the autotensioner, and throw on the belt. Then the rest is just reinstalling everything.

This has been significantly easier than other installs I've done, like I said I'm just paranoid.

 

[VR-4 fanatic]

Make sure everything is sealed properly. You don't want RTV all over the place. Rinse off or wipe off with a towel. I am paranoid because of the problems I am having. But my ISSUES should not in any way impact your fix. Did you install a new O ring on the water pipe? hope so. Now is the time to do it. Put everything back together. Verify timing by hand cranking a few full cycles (top dead center to top dead center). Does the tensioner pin slide in and out easily? If so and you torqued the concentric pulley bolt correctly you are good to go.

 

[Araesk]

New O-ring and WP gasket. I never fully understand what is meant by that tensioner pulley and how it'll allow for the auto tensioner to slide freely, but I figure that's one of those things you just got to do to fully understand what's meant.

Quick side questions. I noticed the new pulleys do not spin nearly as easily as the old ones. Is this because the grease is thicker still and not broken in/thinned out like the old pulleys have? I.e. not broken in yet.

 

[pauleyman]

This job is so straightforward I still dont understand why people freak out. Once you're done its SO SIMPLE to check that it's right.

 

[Araesk]

I think its the idea that if you fudge anything up it could possibly bend some valves/destroy some piston heads is the main thing. I will agree its real simple, people (including myself) make it into a monster greater than what it really is. I'll just belt deflection check at the end to be positive after torquing away. Thanks for the answers!

 

[pauleyman]

NO. That is NOT how you check it.

 

[Araesk]

Thats not going to be how I check it. That's just verification. I'm going to get a drill bit and try to see what I can and cannot get into the gap of theauto tensioner to get the first check if its.proper or not.

 

[4g63t]

2) Can I start my car after I install the new timing belt, but with no WP, AC compressor, PS, and Alternator pulleys hooked up just to make sure that it is in time? Note: only brief start to make sure it sounds proper so if I did manage to mess up I do not have to take all of that off again.

Thank you for your time on my probably already asked at some time questions that I couldn't find.

You can, I have done this before to find oil leaks or to eliminate things from making a noise when I'm looking for a sound. I would not do it just to check if it's in time if you are not sure, that seems silly.

 

[makvely4bolt]

If you have the timing at there correct location when installing the timing belt I don't see why you would need to turn on the car to check timing!

What you could do is turn the engine by hand around 10-15 times and see if you can get all the timing marks to line up..

 

[VR-4 fanatic]

New O-ring and WP gasket. I never fully understand what is meant by that tensioner pulley and how it'll allow for the auto tensioner to slide freely, but I figure that's one of those things you just got to do to fully understand what's meant.

Quick side questions. I noticed the new pulleys do not spin nearly as easily as the old ones. Is this because the grease is thicker still and not broken in/thinned out like the old pulleys have? I.e. not broken in yet.

Any bearing should be 'tight' whether they were just repacked or new factory packed. The grease takes up all the available 'slack' until some of the grease liquifies or begins to break down through use.
Cannot help with the 'slide freely' in regard to the tensioner. I am wrestling with my own demons re timing belt issues.

 

[Araesk]

Another update:
Turns out I learned why you get rid of that long screw special tool when installing hydrolic tensioner.

So I ran into a little problem... again. The Balance shaft timing marks for TDC will not be exactly on. It is either ahead or behind of the mark. When I spun the BS to check for being in time, I made sure I turned it back the same amount as it was when the belt was on. Here's two images to show you what I'm talking about.

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These pictures are without any tension on the belt yet, but it is strung around everything. Thanks for checking up!

 

[Araesk]

Anyone have any ideas?

 

[makvely4bolt]

Here are some great YouTube vids that might be of help to you.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lRwecE8OOLU&feature=youtube_gdata_player

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2q5xaUm0Kto&feature=youtube_gdata_player

 

[Araesk]

If anyone was wondering its because the crankshaft and oil sprocket need to be 1.5 teeth behind the timing mark so that when the belt gets tensioned they spin to the proper timing marks. Go figure it was another little note that I neglected to read (just like my when I was redoing my gauge cluster resulting in RPM's and speed being off for the time being). The first picture I posted is where the oil pump sprocket should be when the belt is not tensioned incase anyone is wondering.