Correct way of lubing arp head studs

[92_talonGsXt]

Do I lube both ends of the arp head studs or just the top part were you torque down the head?

 

[hdoerr]

The Moly lube goes on the bottom of the stud, the end that goes in the block.

 

[lasthope05]

The Moly lube goes on the bottom of the stud, the end that goes in the block.

You dont ever use lube on the block side. That sides suppose to be clean. Moly only goes on the head side.

 

[Boosted90TSIAWD]

The molly lube does indeed go on the threads going into the block.

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

From ARP:

Installation and Other Factors

Appropriate preloads are specified for each ARP bolt. These preloads can be attained in a connecting rod by applying proper torque using a torque wrench or by measuring the amount of stretch in the bolt using a stretch gauge (it is known that a bolt stretches in proportion to the tension in it). The torque method is sometimes inaccurate because of the uncertainty in the coefficient of friction at the interface between the bolt and the rod. This inaccuracy can be minimized by using the lubricant supplied by ARP.

Other factors, equally as important as design, include material selection, verification testing, processing, and quality control. These aspects of bolt manufacturing are discussed elsewhere in this document.

The foregoing discussion concentrated on the design of bolts. The same considerations apply in the design of studs.

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With this said, I use the moly lube on the top of the stud where the 12pt nut goes. Also, the top and bottom of each washer. This is because the nut is what you are torqueing down. Because, the stud should not be moving while doing the torqueing. Therefore, the bottom threads don't need lube.

This is the way I've always done it and have never had any problems. I would chase the treads in the block with a 12x1.25 tap to clean out the threads that way they go in smooth.

 

[92_talonGsXt]

From ARP:

Installation and Other Factors

Appropriate preloads are specified for each ARP bolt. These preloads can be attained in a connecting rod by applying proper torque using a torque wrench or by measuring the amount of stretch in the bolt using a stretch gauge (it is known that a bolt stretches in proportion to the tension in it). The torque method is sometimes inaccurate because of the uncertainty in the coefficient of friction at the interface between the bolt and the rod. This inaccuracy can be minimized by using the lubricant supplied by ARP.

Other factors, equally as important as design, include material selection, verification testing, processing, and quality control. These aspects of bolt manufacturing are discussed elsewhere in this document.

The foregoing discussion concentrated on the design of bolts. The same considerations apply in the design of studs.

----------------------------------------------

With this said, I use the moly lube on the top of the stud where the 12pt nut goes. Also, the top and bottom of each washer. This is because the nut is what you are torqueing down. Because, the stud should not be moving while doing the torqueing. Therefore, the bottom threads don't need lube.

This is the way I've always done it and have never had any problems. I would chase the treads in the block with a 12x1.25 tap to clean out the threads that way they go in smooth.

Do I need to tighten and buttom out the stud into the block or keep them semi loose?

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

I have always just used an M5 allen head socket to run the studs down till they won't turn any more. Pretty much bottom them out but don't put excessive force on them. Just till they bottom out, that's it. You don't want them loose though.

 

[TranceNRG]

On arp head studs, Ive always moly lubed both sides. No harm ever came from it also allows for easy removal if ever needed. When torquing, do it in three stages along with the correct sequence, usually any service manual has the process in it. Make sure the studs are tight in the block before you put the head on.

 

[92_talonGsXt]

I have always just used an M5 allen head socket to run the studs down till they won't turn any more. Pretty much bottom them out but don't put excessive force on them. Just till they bottom out, that's it. You don't want them loose though.

Thanks PrOjEcTGS

 

[lasthope05]

I never put the studs in first. I always put the head on and then the studs last. I do this for two reason. One, Putting the head on with the studs in the block you risk scratching the head surface if you slip or anything was to happen. Two, if you do do it that way it makes the next step of putting in the washers a bi*** as the the space between the stud and valve springs are too tight and hit each other.

What I usually do is drop the head on, put the washers on with the help of a screwdriver and screw the studs in with an allen key.

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

Works either way.