Cooling tips and tricks.

[D_Eclipse9916]

Alright so im running a 2g with an fmic and an upgraded radiator and yes im working on ducting, but I was running what some of you ran for other equipment such as....coolant hoses, caps, anyting else?
The hoses...I just am not sure I trust these advance auto brand hoses and a stock cap is .9 degrees, but I have been to a bunch of racing dsm websites suggesting 1.3 bar, but does this not create more pressure and increase the possibilitty of blowing off lines and destroying the water pump?

What have you guys done with your actual cooling system?

 

[talonTSIDriver]

My cooling setup is this:

Fluidlyne aluminum radiator
2 slimline pusher fans (always left on via DSM-link)
75% water / 25% anti-freeze w/water wetter additive

and that's about it and I don't run any hotter than 220 degrees F and that's after 15 minutes at a lapping day.

I also removed all my A/C stuff too.

 

[turbosax2]

I've read only great things about RRE / Carbontrix hood vents. Definitely worth looking into.

 

[talonTSIDriver]

oh yeah ^^^, I forgot to mention my hood will be having a nice fent in it for next year. I am actually stealing the hood vent parts from an evo hood.

 

[D_Eclipse9916]

I got the hood vents, im just trying to figure out what coolant hoses to buy and a replacement radiator cap specifically for road racing. Something that can endure, hell im thinking of going an, but thats seriously baller expensive and im a college student...

Sorry I do need to update my mod list at some point...

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[aaronmatusz]

As for the best radiator cap & hoses:

http://www.dsmparts.com/customer/product.php?productid=699&cat=22

http://www.dsmparts.com/customer/product.php?productid=343&cat=167&page=1

And something else to look into:

http://lubricationspecialist.com/front/showcontent.aspx?fileid=21&gclid=CPyAnMb1vI4CFRtzhgodl3XIzw

 

[underradar92]

I'm using NAPA replacement hoses and a 22psi cap, no problems. My cap is a Stant race cap for non import application, since I modified my waterneck to use a remote surge tank, to eliminate any chance for the fluid velocity to lift the cap at high rpm's. It also seperates any air bubbles.

Other people I know using stock style caps run a TRD race cap. I'm not sure of the pressure rating though.

Napa recently released 1g and 2g blue HP upper and lower hoses, if you are looking for added insurance. http://www.napaonline.com/masterpag...HB7&Description=Hose+-+Radiator+Kit+-+Hi-Perf

^^^^ I see the Samco stuff is a bit less $$.

 

[D_Eclipse9916]

So you havent had any issues with blowing off coolant hoses at 22 psi? It looks like I may have to go with those Samco hoses. Any other suggestions?? I am trying to get the temps under 210 degrees the entire session (water). It likes to creep up to 220-225 and it REALLY worries me at those temps. Ive added an external oil cooler setup and some ducting, also some ducting for the intake with heat shields. I Am just looking for those guys out there that have some crazy ideas to do some good things for road racing.

 

[turbosax2]

So you havent had any issues with blowing off coolant hoses at 22 psi? It looks like I may have to go with those Samco hoses. Any other suggestions?? I am trying to get the temps under 210 degrees the entire session (water). It likes to creep up to 220-225 and it REALLY worries me at those temps. Ive added an external oil cooler setup and some ducting, also some ducting for the intake with heat shields. I Am just looking for those guys out there that have some crazy ideas to do some good things for road racing.

Have you blown off the stock hoses?

 

[turbosax2]

Other people I know using stock style caps run a TRD race cap. I'm not sure of the pressure rating though.

They come in 1.3 and 1.5 bar. I'm not sure which one would fit our cars though.

 

[underradar92]

So you havent had any issues with blowing off coolant hoses at 22 psi? .

No, not at all. I was even using oil swelled heater hoses (not recommended) last season. Replaced them all this spring, even did the smaller bypass hoses with blue or black push-lock hoses. Figured my dumb luck would eventually kick me in the jubblies.

The TRD caps are as I recall, both direct replacements, just a pressure difference.

 

[stealthTT]

The Samco hoses are nice and hold up real well.

I'd run as low a pressure cap as you can get away with. Higher pressure raises the temperature that the coolant will boil at, but the trade-off is that it also increases the chance for leaks. If you aren't boiling, I wouldn't install a higher pressure cap.

I'd also recommend a low pressure light. Low pressure will alert you that you've lost coolant. Longacre makes an inexpensive setup for less than $30.

Also, as already mentioned, focus on getting air through the radiator and you should be okay.

 

[talonTSIDriver]

So you havent had any issues with blowing off coolant hoses at 22 psi? It looks like I may have to go with those Samco hoses. Any other suggestions?? I am trying to get the temps under 210 degrees the entire session (water). It likes to creep up to 220-225 and it REALLY worries me at those temps. Ive added an external oil cooler setup and some ducting, also some ducting for the intake with heat shields. I Am just looking for those guys out there that have some crazy ideas to do some good things for road racing.

I was able to keep my track temps under 210 when i kept the radiator fans on and turned my heater inside the car on full blast. this was even at a lower speed lapping day where I did not see more than 70mph. Without the fans and the heater on, I was easily climbing to 220-225F. This was also without a hood vent of any type.

 

[housegsx]

The hoses...I just am not sure I trust these advance auto brand hoses

Yeah, definitely don't use those. I go through them about every 8 months on my daily driven Prelude. They swell so bad. Stick with the oem hoses or if you have the money get the Samcos. I run the oem.

 

[D_Eclipse9916]

Have you blown off the stock hoses?

Never blown off the stock hoses, I think they are original, my car has 80,000 miles so they definitely need replaced. The problem is not around town, its when im moving. The problem is all the heat build up at full boost and full throttle 3rd, 4th and half of 5th gear.

Can you show me a link to that low coolant warning system? That would be awesome, as I really just would want to know when it blows off, I am already installing an oil pressure gauge which is what I would really be worried about, but a cool little LED to go "OH SHIT BLOWN HOSE" would be damn nice.

 

[stealthTT]

Can you show me a link to that low coolant warning system? That would be awesome, as I really just would want to know when it blows off, I am already installing an oil pressure gauge which is what I would really be worried about, but a cool little LED to go "OH SHIT BLOWN HOSE" would be damn nice.

http://www.longacreracing.com/catalog/item.asp?id=1094&catid=11

It's just a pressure sensor that will switch on a light when the pressure drops below approximately 4psi. Simple, cheap, and effective.

 

[turbosax2]

Can you show me a link to that low coolant warning system? That would be awesome, as I really just would want to know when it blows off, I am already installing an oil pressure gauge which is what I would really be worried about, but a cool little LED to go "OH SHIT BLOWN HOSE" would be damn nice.

Wouldn't the big cloud of steam be enough? I'm not trying to be funny, this is a serious question.

 

[mavisky]

Vented Vis Invader hood
Removed a/c condenser
Mishimoto radiator and fans on the way
1993 300zx twin turbo radiator cap
normal 70/30 water to coolant ratio

 

[D_Eclipse9916]

Wouldn't the big cloud of steam be enough? I'm not trying to be funny, this is a serious question.

If I blew a hose off on track at 120, more than likely I would see the LED go off before any smoke. I had a pretty serious leak in my coolant hoses between the oil fitler housing and I thought I was just overheating a little (no smoke just gauge) AFter letting her cool fro a bit I came back and poured over a gallon of water only to realize it was spilling out. Not a hint of smoke. So yes.. I would like this.

 

[RusherRacing]

My car is kindoff over the top as far as cooling is concerned.

Blitz Cap
180 Deg thermostat
Stock Hoses (will be replaced with hard pipe with silicon ends before next season)
Large Aluminum Radiator in Front and smaller one in Rear (ran off of the heater hoses) That will be hard piped also by next year!)
One big flex lite fan in front and a smaller one in back.
Carbon Trix style hood vent.
and the front center portion of grill removed.
Weather seal around all openings in the front of the car forcing the air to go through the radiator/intercooler/oilcooler/brakes...
Aluminum formed to help air go where its supposed to.

During a 20 minute sessions it stays right at 180 Deg F.

Also i like that low pressure warning light. I might have to look into that. Warning lights are so much better than gauges for alot of things. Gauges are good for RPM, MPH, and Temps... The rest of the crap can be on lights because if they come on or going to have to stop having fun, regardless, and hopefully everything will be logged of the AEM so i can help diagonis the problem.

 

[turbosax2]

If I blew a hose off on track at 120, more than likely I would see the LED go off before any smoke. I had a pretty serious leak in my coolant hoses between the oil fitler housing and I thought I was just overheating a little (no smoke just gauge) AFter letting her cool fro a bit I came back and poured over a gallon of water only to realize it was spilling out. Not a hint of smoke. So yes.. I would like this.

Makes sense. Thanks for the answer.

 

[mavisky]

I may have to look into that guage as well. I just put this setup together earlier this year and I already love it. It's a 20psi oil pressure warning light, 230 degree water temp warning light, and a 270 degree oil temp light, although I haven't hooked up the oil temp light and may pick up this low coolant pressure switch for it instead. It goes right in place of the center vent.

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[stealthTT]

I may have to look into that guage as well. I just put this setup together earlier this year and I already love it. It's a 20psi oil pressure warning light, 230 degree water temp warning light, and a 270 degree oil temp light, although I haven't hooked up the oil temp light and may pick up this low coolant pressure switch for it instead. It goes right in place of the center vent.

I'd definately keep the oil temp light. I had good oil pressure right up until the point my motor lost power and seized. I have my oil pressure gauge tapped into the stock position in the block. I still don't know why it was fine one corner and then kablooie the next; although I have a theory. Anyway, the oil overheated and melted the main bearings. If I'd had a temp gauge or warning light, I probably would've caught it in time.