coolant temp at 219f on a 90f day normal?

[bradcurtis15]

just wondering if this is normal I have a aluminum radiator, front mount inter-cooler, a 160*f thermostat and i used royal purple water wetter with 50/50 coolant. this is what my car was running at when i was at a stop in traffic. I've replaced all my coolant lines. I'm assuming my car running hot because its so hot outside and the air circulation under my hood is so limited.

 

[GSLENK]

The block needs to be that 219* temp to operate at top efficency.

I thought the ECU pulls 1* timing at 210*F. I've always been lead to believe that you want to stay in the 190-200 range with anything lower than 210 during hard driving.

 

[bradcurtis15]

I thought the ECU pulls 1* timing at 210*F. I've always been lead to believe that you want to stay in the 190-200 range with anything lower than 210 during hard driving.

Yeah I heard the same. The cel turns on when thd car hits 235f

 

[Colt4G63 also]

The block needs to be that 219* temp to operate at top efficency.

You cool that block down and you're not going to get what you want to get out of it due to it's running too cold.

This is why 195* T-stats are installed .. to get that block hot.

You cool that block down, the oil suffers as well since it's not getting hot enough for prime lubrication.

Coolant should be at 50/50 mix to keep the water pump lubricated at its prime.

And, with this 195* T-stat thing: it keeps the coolant flowing slower in the block to pull the most excess heat off the block. You move that coolant around too fast with a colder T-stat (or even remove it completely), and it won't pull as much heat off and you could be facing cylinder wall scorching.

Don't know where this "running cooler T-stats" comes into play .....

-DSM

The stock thermostat for a turbo DSM is only 180*. It's only the 420A that came with a 195* thermostat.

 

[DSM1G90]

Thx for the info - sorry on the mislead then.

 

[1990AWD]

The stock thermostat for a turbo DSM is only 180*. It's only the 420A that came with a 195* thermostat.

Factory 1g turbo is 195*

 

[dot45]

Coolant should be at 50/50 mix to keep the water pump lubricated at its prime.


-DSM

That is not correct. You only want enough antifreeze so you have the temp. protection level for your area. For example 70% water/ 30% coolant gives you protection all the way down to 0 F. Water transfers heat better.

 

[victors_97dsm]

Have you changed out either the coolant temp sensor or coolant sending unit? I had the same issues when I bought my 99 GSX which was running extremely hot and had to change out everything related to the coolant system and the last thing I changed out was the coolant temp sending unit sensor and now everything runs normal for the AZ heat

Vic

 

[DSM1G90]

For example 70% water/ 30% coolant gives you protection all the way down to 0 F. Water transfers heat better.

Ummm... yet, 50/50 can go down lower in protection numbers to -35 + F.

That's what a T-stat is for .. to throttle the coolant flow TO pull the heat off the block - no matter if you use straight water, this 70/30 or 50/50 mix.

Auto manufacturers recommend 50/50 mix for one reason: they learned from experience this is the correct ratio for maximum protection (and lubricates the WP at its prime) of ANY motor.

Now, why would I want to change the recommended ratio?

You, up in MI, should know this where you get a lot colder up there. You must either use a block heater, or keep your car in an enclosed garage.

-DSM

 

[dot45]

Ummm... yet, 50/50 can go down lower in protection numbers to -35 + F.

That's what a T-stat is for .. to throttle the coolant flow TO pull the heat off the block - no matter if you use straight water, this 70/30 or 50/50 mix.

Auto manufacturers recommend 50/50 mix for one reason: they learned from experience this is the correct ratio for maximum protection (and lubricates the WP at its prime) of ANY motor.

Now, why would I want to change the recommended ratio?

You, up in MI, should know this where you get a lot colder up there. You must either use a block heater, or keep your car in an enclosed garage.

-DSM

They use 50/50 from the factory, so they don't have to use different mixes depending on where the car is sold. Living in Michigan I run 60% water/40% coolant. Note the attached chart for coolant ratio to freeze protection.

Also a great article:
http://www.torcavettes.com/tech/CorvetteCooling.htm
It shows the ability to remove heat using different ratio's of coolant/water, and also adding "water wetter".

 

[Colt4G63 also]

Factory 1g turbo is 195*

Maybe in Canada, but not according to the listings I've seen. They list 195* as an alternate temprature.

 

[DSM1G90]

DSM manuals lists the T-stat, both the 1 .8, the 2.0 NT and turbo, at 190*F from the factory.

Thx, but will stay at 50/50 - been doing this mix for years without any problems and in -30*F temps without any coolant freezing issues. I also do a full system flush every other year,thus no need for that "Water Wetter"stuff - "pink Kool-aid" for vehicles....just something to spend money on.

I just put a drop light with a 100w clear bulb under the oil pan to keep the oil warm so the motor can still swing over easy on the next day after those cold nights.

THAT's the thing that is really needed - is to keep the oil warm so it will flow through the block easier to protect those rotating parts, esp the connecting rod bearings.

 

[99gst214]

I run a 70/30 mix (water/coolant) in the summer then switch 50/50 for the winter. Water definitely dissipates heat better. But dsm1g90 is correct on the need to maintain proper block temps. I have ran 225-228 degree coolant temps on long highway runs with no issues. Amazing what kinda fuel mileage you get at those temps too.

 

[truesk83r]

2 bottles of water wetter helped my cooling a lot along with more water than coolant. I also have both fans running at all times via ecmlink

 

[DSM1G90]

Two bottles of water wetter .. aint that a bit of an overkill along with making the WP suffer with not getting the proper amount of lubrication?

a lot along with more water than coolant. I also have both fans running at all times via ecmlink

If you have a proper temperature T-stat (or, even having one installed), running both fans isn't needed - let the block get hot and work for you instead of against you.

 

[hardcorandy]

On a 90* day my gauge will read 200-206. My ecu will read 219 though. Where are you getting your 219 reading from OP?

 

[OutKastGSX]

Also having a issue with this, i live in south lousisiana and its about 90+ and 100% humidity . I have a fluidyne aluminum radiator with the one stock cooling fan. Im thinking the one fan insent enough, if i drive at lower speeds and idling . It will creep up to 3/4 on the temp gauge, i have seen temps at 240 on link. To high for my liking, thinking of putting the stock radiator back on, myabe this one is to thick.the jpipe is in the way of putting the stock ac fan back in.

 

[little-razcal]

Ive always been under the impression a 1G t-stat is 190 degrees and the 2G 180 degress.. You can however get lower and higher t-stats as well as a different cap.

I hover right around 200-206 when fully warm. I wouln't even start to look at temp until I go over 216 degrees.. In my book anything between 185-210 is ideal, for a 1G that is...

 

[truesk83r]

for some reason if I don't have both fans full on at all times it will overheat and sit around 223. fans full on drops me down to 200.

 

[Mark4g63t]

Did you get all of the air out of your system? I remember when mine used to idle right around 210* and then I got all the air out and now will sit around 193* this is on 100% water

 

[DSM1G90]

Im thinking the one fan insent enough, if i drive at lower speeds and idling . It will creep up to 3/4 on the temp gauge, i have seen temps at 240 on link. To high for my liking, thinking of putting the stock radiator back on, myabe this one is to thick.the jpipe is in the way of putting the stock ac fan back in.

Okey, I'm gonna ask a very interesting question here on this issue of this temperature thing: How many of you users have your license plate dead front in front of the air intake and similar?

That license plate acts like a big air dam pushing air away from the radiator causing temperature rising - thus the need for your fans to be on all the time at fast moving speeds. At idle and low speeds the plate hasn't that much of an effect.

Also, you modders gotta think that you got a HUGE radiator in front of the stock radiator called an FMIC that is emitting hot air that goes through the regular radiator where cool air would be more appeasing for the stock radiator.