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coolant flush

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Onnipotente

15+ Year Contributor
105
0
Oct 16, 2003
Is there like a vfaq on how to do a coolant flush?(I couldnt find it) I always like to read up before I do something for the first time.
 
WHY ARE U DOING THE FLUSH, IF YOUR LOOKING FOR LIKE A CLOG IN YOUR RADIATIOR, TAKE IT OUT AND GET IT POWER FLUSHED. IF YOUR JUST GOING TO FLUSH THE COOLANT THERES A BOLT AT THE BOTTOM OF THE RADIATOR THAT WILL RELEASE ALL OF IT. DON'T QUITE KNOW WHAT YOUR DOING BUT THOUGHT THIS MGHT HELP. :thumb:
 
you have much to learn young grasshopper. LOL there is like a screw on the bottom of the radiator u just unscrew it and all ur fluid will drain out, its gotta be somewere on the bottom of the radiator. on 420a its on the bottom left (passanger side)
 
is there really any good point to useing distilled water? I know it effects the boiling temperature. But that's only as long as the water stays pure it prevents it from bubbling. Any amount of dust or rust from the ageing system will just defeat the purpose.
 
Doing a “flush” is not hard, instructions are on the bottle of whatever brand of “flush” you wish to use. If you don’t want to use the flushing agent you can back flush thru the thermostat housing with just a garden hose. (with thermostat removed of course).

All of the above is good advice. Most antifreeze nowadays has all the anti corrosion/lubricants and all that stuff in it. A standard flush probably would not relieve a bad blockage, but is not a bad idea for PM, especially if you have no idea if the car has been flushed before. It is time consuming, and disposal of all the contaminated coolant might be an issue. As stated, it a good time to replace the thermostat, and any questionable hoses.

Typically, you drain all the old coolant out after car has cooled, fill up with water and the flushing agent. Idle car to normal temp, so thermostat opens and the whole system gets cleaned. Don’t forget to turn on heater to max temp, so heater core gets flushed too. Let car cool, drain the “flushed” mixture, and refill with water, and run to temp again. This will “rinse” system of flushing agent. Let car cool, and drain system again, and then add new antifreeze/water mix, slowly so air can escape system. Warm up car again, and check fluid level, top off as needed. Check for leaks while you are doing this!! Drive car and recheck fluid level.

It is a time consuming procedure, but not really hard. Basically, I do it once to any “used” car I buy, and not to often after, since cooling system is closed loop. I will change the antifreeze every two years, checking the antifreezes condition in between using the little gauge that tells you how much temperature protection, hot and cold, you have in your system. Good luck, and don’t drink the water!!! OMG :thumb: :laser:
 
Eclipsemblue said:
you have much to learn young grasshopper. LOL there is like a screw on the bottom of the radiator u just unscrew it and all ur fluid will drain out, its gotta be somewere on the bottom of the radiator. on 420a its on the bottom left (passanger side)

Doing a coolant flush requires much more than simply draining the radiator. I think he wants to flush it from the block and lines as well. :thumb:
 
johnk said:
is there really any good point to useing distilled water? I know it effects the boiling temperature. But that's only as long as the water stays pure it prevents it from bubbling. Any amount of dust or rust from the ageing system will just defeat the purpose.
True, but there's no point in introducing the health agents put in tap water for human consideration to the cooling system. And, if your water's anything like the semi-liquid mud they run through the pipes here, just seeing what's left in an evaporated glass would be enough to convince you.
It's not crucial, but it's one of those simple little steps that're that much better.
 
LaserDad91 said:
Don’t forget to turn on heater to max temp, so heater core gets flushed too.
A good practice, but not necessary in a DSM: in the tradition of American cars, the DSMs have no heater valve and the heater core is full-flow, full-time. Temperature is controlled by a diverting door. Mere "imports" are the ones that regulate heat with water flow.

Also, the heater valve was the first part installed on Datsun Z cars- the entire rest of the car was attached to, and formed around it. Replacement of that valve required removal of those added-on parts. 6 days, book time. A good mechanic could do it in a week.

An excellent mechanic got the customer to believe it wasn't really all that cold out, after all.
 
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