Did I flush my coolant right?

[truwarrior]

well I didn't know if my coolant was ever flushed so I did it today just to be safe. Here is what I did...btw the coolant in there was pretty clean and looks fairly new...I bought it with 47K and now have 53K.

1. Drained rad.
2. Took off hose cap.
3. Poored in super flush and added gallon of water and put the hose cap back on.
4. Ran for 8-10 min.
5. Removed hose cap and drained flush from rad.
6. Filled up with 50/50 green fluid and put the cap back on.

After that I changed the oil with mobile 1 and put on a wix filter then took it for a spin.

I noticed some water coming out of my exhaust after I drove it around the block but it wasn't to much and I was parked on a incline. Exhaust was making kinda of a metal clinking noise too but I think something is just loose even though it use to just make a just a low rumble.

Also now isn't my rad filled with more water then coolant since I added that water with the flush...from my under standing there will still be some coolant in the block...

 

[Omega]

Water exiting the exhaust is normal (it is a byproduct of combustion)... white smoke is coolant being burnt though.

I doubt the clinking has anything to do with the coolant flush. Look around the exhaust for parts rubbing/missing bolts.

Go and buy a coolant tester. It will tell you wether or not you need to change the mix. They are ~$5 and are a good investment.

Yes there is coolant in the block. If you want to make sure you cleared all the flush out of the block, keep draining the coolant and filling it with straight distilled water. When you finally have clear water draining, stop and then add straight coolant until the mix is correct (using the forementioned tester)

 

[steve]

Originally posted by Omega
If you want to make sure you cleared all the flush out of the block, keep draining the coolant and filling it with straight distilled water. When you finally have clear water draining, stop and then add straight coolant until the mix is correct (using the forementioned tester)

Using Distilled water would be an expensive way to do this. Pretty much whatever water that comes out the hose spigot is fine for flushing and mixing with antifreeze. Flushing until you get clear water out is a requirement to make sure you have clean the junk and flush chemicals out of the system.

Steve

 

[Defiant]

It'd only take about 5 gallons, at a buck a gallon. It's not like buying gasoline.

 

[steve]

It usually takes me more than 5 gallons to flush the system but you caused me to rethink and do more research on the subject.
The various antifreeze manufactures don't require distilled water but with how variable peoples tap water source is, I can see an advantage to making sure you don't introduce all sorts of disolved minerals, iron, or salt to the cooling system.
I've never had any problems from using clean tap water over the past 30 years. It's far better than leaving old coolant in the system, but applying the "if it's worth doing, it's worth doing right" rule I'd agree that using distilled water should be used for best results.

Steve

 

[2GeNTSi]

I was reading the haynes manual and it says something about the "engine block drain" and apparently it's somewhere near the turbo, is this part of the process necessary or what?

 

[Defiant]

I was reading the haynes manual and it says something about the "engine block drain" and apparently it's somewhere near the turbo, is this part of the process necessary or what?

If the coolant in the engine didn't look like mud, there's no need to open the block drain.

 

[RamenPride]

I was reading the haynes manual and it says something about the "engine block drain" and apparently it's somewhere near the turbo, is this part of the process necessary or what?

if you disconnect the lower coolant line you'll empty out most of the block.

 

[DevilSperm]

i always try to use soft water when i mix...less crap, more salt