Completely stumped... Voltage issue

[One Equals Two]

Hey guys, (BEFORE YOU COME TO CONCLUSIONS...it looks like an alternator issue, but half of the symptoms don't check out). I don't know what the crap is going on!!

This might look like another retard newbie thread, but I am going insane.

So, I thought I had a good handle on cars, but GST has proven me an idiot.

LONG STORY SHORT: Can my alternator really be bad from the manufacturer? It's brand new.

LONG STORY LONG: See below.

So, 5 days ago, when doing a log on my car with DSM link, I found I was hitting 8-11 counts of knock around 5800-6200 rpms. (Just going by what the friend said, it was all new to me). We tried the second log and the same result, however I watched the Air/Fuel meter and it was way lean at that rpm at 17:1 ish. I wasn't sure why.

Then 4 days ago I punched the throttle to get on the freeway and right at 4500 rpms my entire car cut out and backfired. CEL came on indicating I was knocking pretty badly. I thought that was weird, but sure enough, on the next time I tried, same thing at the same rpms.

3 days ago, I found out that I couldn't touch boost or else I'd lean out. So, I was like an idiot and thought, "Why didn't I check for voltage?" Sure enough, 9.8 volts. I was stunned and surprised that my car was even running. I went to secure the battery terminal and found it to be super hot and burned my hand. 2nd degree burns on my finger really got my pissed off. But, the car clicked a little and the voltage went back up to 11.8 (still low obviously). When I started the car, it went to 12.6. Still low.

2 days ago, I rewired the terminal to make sure it wasn't dirty contact points, but no improvement in the voltage. Since the voltage didn't climb with engine speed, I figured the alternator was toast. So, I replaced the alternator. Voltage is worse now at 11.5 volts while running.

Today, I replaced the battery cables and the battery itself and no increase in voltage. My car now runs really rough for the first few moments and then is fine sometimes. But it always starts. I've never not had it start for me. It displays symptoms of low voltage (sputtering, leaning out in boost showing that the fuel pump is starving), but it never fails to start, nor does using any of the headlights stereo A/C fan, etc have any adverse effect either. I am completely clueless.....Help me, I hate my car now...

 

[turboglenn]

Yes you can get a bad alt from the store/mnufacturer... Second it sounds exactly like what i've observed for years when the mitsu alts die.... YOu might want to check for current draw when the car is off causing the battery to be taxed constantly and ruining it so even a good alt wouldn't charge it much.


THird, put in a saturn alternator and never look bac.... THis is seriously one of the best mods i've ever put on my car and i've got about every bell, whistle, doo-hicky and gadget i can get on my ride

OUr alts suffer bad from heat and high revs.. I have been able to watch the damage accumulate on my last 3 alts just from watching the datalogger...Every hard pull over 7k RPM would cause a permanent loss of some measurable sort of voltage, until the lights were dimming and the tach was jumpnig when the turn signal would blink.

 

[bomper04]

voltage drops, voltage drops, do some voltage drops!

 

[D3adch1ld]

I have similar issues. The first time this happen to me I saw my O2 readings super lean and didnt matter how much I try to compensate it just didnt act correctly. Thats when I looked at my TT and saw my voltage dragging on the 10s. After that, I have replaced my alternator about 8 times. (5 from a local guy, 2 HO Genco brand, and 1 HO alterstar) The first 5 where really crappy, once I got the alterstar I replaced the line to the battery with a 4 gauge wire, also changed the battery (I pushed my last one to short out from the many times I drained it while trying to make it to my mechanic) also tested the VR harness (specially the red wire - should have 12.0 V on the dot). Despite all of this, the alternator only lasted me 4 weeks until it began to overchage. I already checked for shorts all around, replaced the grounds, the redtop batt (as I mentioned)... I can only think of two things, the wires leading to the harness short out sporadicaly or the heat is really killing the alt. According to the techs from Genco and Alterstar, if the VR losses its 12.0 feed, it will damage the alt (not immediately, but it will cause damage), but they really focuses on the heat issue... I did notice I didnt have any problems with my cheap alt (first replacement) until I installed the FMIC, so there might be some merrit to this hole thing. I read in one of the other threads that the dealer alt is the best "stock" replacement, but of course, there is also the saturn alt conversion to think about. Ill update later after I get the slim fans on the rad, and try to work some sort of air duct to the alt. (Fingers crossed) let me know of your progress, too. Good luck!!