Cold air intake on N/T 2.0

[90talonTSiTURBO]

what is the best cold air intake or short ram intake for a 1g dsm 2.0 N/T?

 

[Turbotsiawd]

Your money can be well spent elcewhere
Have you bought an 3" exhaust or manifold
Yet you will see more gains out of those then a cold
Air intake

 

[90talonTSiTURBO]

ive been looking around at part and stuff but what would be the best way to go about starting to upgrade (like the type of parts and the best kind of parts i can buy) like cold air intake wepon r or injen? ect..

 

[90talonTSiTURBO]

ive been looking around at part and stuff but what would be the best way to go about starting to upgrade (like the type of parts and the best kind of parts i can buy) like cold air intake wepon r or injen? ect..

 

[Dhan]

Your money can be well spent elcewhere
Have you bought an 3" exhaust or manifold

If you put stock in the back pressure theory, a 3" exhaust would actually hurt low end performance on a n/t. The engine is designed to have a certain amount of back pressure.
The best intake (using price as a scale) would be Weapon R. It isn't really a cold air intake as it's still drawing on the warm air near the engine. To make a real cold air, you'd have to reroute the pipes to draw on the cool air coming from the front air dams. And IMO, their price of $150 is a little over the top.

For my rallyx n/t, I just got an ebay smooth pipe for $35. A pipe is a pipe in this case.

EDIT: Check this out, if you haven't yet: http://www.dsmtuners.com/1g_dsm_non_turbo_upgrade_path

There's a wiseman on this site, named '9!clipse, who put some effort into his n/t. From what I understood, his mods (intake, Pacesetter exhaust and header) didn't make much of a difference. He's pretty well versed in the DSM world (n/t and turbo) so maybe give his threads and blog a read.

From my experience with the 2.0L n/t, the best "mod" would be to rebuild the engine and restore power.

An intake might help for a couple HP, but not much. I eliminated my EGR, charcoal can, and vac lines for maybe a fraction of a HP. A lightweight flywheel helped decrease the time it took to move through the powerband. I also removed the a/c, rear seats, rear plastic panels, spare tire and jack, rear wiper, and a few other misc things. Added up to maybe 90 lbs.
If you're into good handling, that's one thing you can make your n/t do well. A good amount of the suspension parts (shocks, springs, camber kits, sway bars, etc) that are meant for the turbo cars, can fit the n/t cars. If the n/t can go fast enough to make use of them is another story
Another alt. is to port/polish the head and bore out the cylinders during the above mentioned rebuild. When replacing the internals (pistons, journals, rods, etc.) go for upgraded aftermarket units.
I don't know how mechanically inclined you are, so this might be getting a little out of your price range. Not to mention, the car will still probably be slower than the turbo model.

 

[Turbotsiawd]

Yeah yeah the whole scavenging theory
Forgot it's been awhile since I was tuneing
My n/a Honda my bad 2.25 exhaust then.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

EDIT: Check this out, if you haven't yet: Tech Guide: 1G 4G63 N/T Upgrades - DSMtuners

There's a wiseman on this site, named '9!clipse, who put some effort into his n/t. From what I understood, his mods (intake, Pacesetter exhaust and header) didn't make much of a difference. He's pretty well versed in the DSM world (n/t and turbo) so maybe give his threads and blog a read.

From my experience with the 2.0L n/t, the best "mod" would be to rebuild the engine and restore power.

An intake might help for a couple HP, but not much. I eliminated my EGR, charcoal can, and vac lines for maybe a fraction of a HP. A lightweight flywheel helped decrease the time it took to move through the powerband. I also removed the a/c, rear seats, rear plastic panels, spare tire and jack, rear wiper, and a few other misc things. Added up to maybe 90 lbs.
If you're into good handling, that's one thing you can make your n/t do well. A good amount of the suspension parts (shocks, springs, camber kits, sway bars, etc) that are meant for the turbo cars, can fit the n/t cars. If the n/t can go fast enough to make use of them is another story
Another alt. is to port/polish the head and bore out the cylinders during the above mentioned rebuild. When replacing the internals (pistons, journals, rods, etc.) go for upgraded aftermarket units.
I don't know how mechanically inclined you are, so this might be getting a little out of your price range. Not to mention, the car will still probably be slower than the turbo model.

Speaking of the 9'!clipseDOHC guy... Back when my car was n/a I made the most power with a K&N drop in filter, smooth ebay intake pipe, fresh NGK plugs and wires, and a Pacesetter 2.5" catback. I ran a best of 16.1 in the 1/4 mile. After that, the more mods I did, my car just got louder and slower. I did headers, high flow cat, aluminum flywheel, etc to no avail. As mentioned, it you want a slight increase in power, there are a few things you can do, but if you want to go fast, save up the money for a turbo DSM or a turbo swap (see this thread for more info on a turbo swap: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-turbo-system-intercooler/48231-installing-turbo-4g63-into-nt-4g63.html. I know that's probably not what you want to hear, but that is the best advice that I can give you based on my own personal expirience being in your shoes.

Also Kreez mentioned my build thread, which covers my whole swap from N/A to turbo. If you are interested, you can check it out here: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/dsm-build-journals/418713-9-eclipse-n-t-turbo-fwd-street-drag-autox.html

 

[99eclipse420]

Besides the hole up grade path it doesn't matter the pipe its all about the filter, so buy a cheep knock off on ebay and go get a k&n air filter from auto zone or what not. Save money the most expensive knock off i have seen is 50 bucks injen is what 200-300 bucks, its all the same pipe none of them do anything better than the others, the Filter is what matters.

 

[DSM1G90]

..and K&N's will throw off the A/F ratios causing more fuel that will have to be delivered since the O2 sensor will tell the ECU that a lean mixture is sensed.

 

[jcart953]

..and K&N's will throw off the A/F ratios causing more fuel that will have to be delivered since the O2 sensor will tell the ECU that a lean mixture is sensed.

ugh ...where did you get this information from ^^^

 

[That1Talon]

..and K&N's will throw off the A/F ratios causing more fuel that will have to be delivered since the O2 sensor will tell the ECU that a lean mixture is sensed.

Can you explain where you got this information I have always ran K & N and never had an issue. Please only helpful information.

 

[BoostedBen]

..and K&N's will throw off the A/F ratios causing more fuel that will have to be delivered since the O2 sensor will tell the ECU that a lean mixture is sensed.

Totally 100% untrue. I've run K&N filters on literally every vehicle I've ever owned. No issues.

 

[WES_393]

..and K&N's will throw off the A/F ratios causing more fuel that will have to be delivered since the O2 sensor will tell the ECU that a lean mixture is sensed.

False. The ECU can easily and accurately compensate for the small amount of added airflow.

 

[Dhan]

I've heard the K&N filters are bad stories a number of times. From what I understand, the oil that you coat the filters with can gum up the MAF sensor which further leads to A/F problems. If you over do it and drench the filter with the K&N oil, a small amount can get through and over time could very well foul up the sensor. I'm not stating this as fact, it's simply what I've heard and read.

I've always just done one coat of the oil then given the oil 24 hours to set into the filter before using it.

 

[That1Talon]

I can see where coating it and putting it straight on would possibly cause an issue.

 

[kj2fast4u92]

I have a 1994 2.0 n/t and i have had good luck with my Cosmo cold air intake, Megan Racing header, and Brian Crower 272 cams. I also have a test pipe (no cat), and a high flow muffler (not sure of the brand). That, the upgraded fuel rail, larger injectors, and the port/polish has my car at about 200hp give or take a bit. i also have an Exedy clutch. Most all brands are decent and i don't have any experience with any other brands so i can't really tell you "which is best" but i am very satisfied with those parts

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

I have a 1994 2.0 n/t and i have had good luck with my Cosmo cold air intake, Megan Racing header, and Brian Crower 272 cams. I also have a test pipe (no cat), and a high flow muffler (not sure of the brand). That, the upgraded fuel rail, larger injectors, and the port/polish has my car at about 200hp give or take a bit. i also have an Exedy clutch. Most all brands are decent and i don't have any experience with any other brands so i can't really tell you "which is best" but i am very satisfied with those parts

How did you get that "about 200hp give or take a bit" number? Has it been dynoed? What are you using to tune with?

 

[kj2fast4u92]

How did you get that "about 200hp give or take a bit" number? Has it been dynoed? What are you using to tune with?

Previous owner dynoed it and it was putting out 192 at the crank. Sorry if that was misleading (i'm sure it looked like a bit of a high number) i just didn't remember the exact number at the time i first posted so i estimated. Of course he could have been feeding me BS also but i figured it was probably close because i can put up a pretty good fight against my friends bone stock 91 gst which i know is just north of 200hp and win if i hit my shifts perfect.

 

[Fotowntalon]

Dynoed 192 to the crank he said and he showed you papers all this threw a few bolt-ons and a port on a NT? Also there is a hell of a lot more to whose can is faster that just the HP.