Code help!!!

[RobAnd34]

I have a 1998 Eclipse GST with the 6 bolt swap. I have a FPG turbo and Greddy Fmic I have the stock ecu hooked up to the car. The check engine light is on, I ran some test and these are the codes I got back.

P0135- Heat Oxygen Sensor
P0300- Random Misfire (Misfire Detected)
P0403- EGR Control Circuit
P0446- Evap emission vent solenoid
P1103- Waste Gate
P1105- Fuel Pressure Solenoid
P1400- MDP Sensor

I really am looking for help on how to repair all these things.
My car is running pretty shitty but I thinks its from the egr getting stuck open at times. Then there are times when the car runs great and boosts hard. I guess I am stuck and looking for help I have been doing research but, everyones case is different.

 

[Jman9912]

Work on one at a time. You might even eliminate some of the others by doing so.

Pick one, then google it.

 

[RobAnd34]

Kinda, what I have been doing ha! there is just so many different things people say I honestly don't know where to start.

 

[bryanwheat]

90 percent of those are simple. The solenoid was removed, likely when the 6 bolt swap was performed. Sounds like someone just started removing stuff and didn't know it would throw a check engine light. As for the egr, there would be no light for it getting stuck open. The light would only appear if there were an issue with the solenoid. I assume you are just experiencing the all so common random misfire with the 6 bolt swap, or a boost leak. Nothing in that list would really make the car run bad.

 

[RobAnd34]

Bryan, thanks for the positive news. As for my cars drivability its as if it feels like a boost leak but, I checked and found no leak at all. Then someone said it could the egr being stuck open? If that is the case would the my car run bad under normal driving conditions and then when I floor it the egr get forced closed enabling me to reach full boost? Just curious?

 

[bryanwheat]

Bryan, thanks for the positive news. As for my cars drivability its as if it feels like a boost leak but, I checked and found no leak at all. Then someone said it could the egr being stuck open? If that is the case would the my car run bad under normal driving conditions and then when I floor it the egr get forced closed enabling me to reach full boost? Just curious?

Why are you assuming egr? Just because of the code. If the egr were hanging open than it would of shown during the boost leak test. How high did pressurize it when you did a boost leak test.

 

[92AWDHX40]

That's a lot of codes, like mentioned before pick one and fix that one first, and go from there.

 

[RobAnd34]

Well I am assuming egr from countless discussions with my high performance instructor. Do you have any other suggestions? While driving when I driving (normal) and am just creeping into gears it feels like a boost leak. But other times when I just floor it it runs perfectly fine and will for a a short period of time. During (normal) driving ill get intense vibrations coming from the motor. Its seems like the car goes into a lean condition and sounds sorta like a Subaru for a short period of time.

 

[bryanwheat]

I know exactly what is wrong with it, in my first post I notes the common misfire with a 6 bolt I'm a 2g. This is caused by using a 1g cam sensor with a 2g ecu. It is easily fixable by wiring a 5k potentiometer into the Barometric pressure sensor that comes from the Maf sensor. There are a ton of write ups out there about this. There are also other fixes such as using the kiggley crank sensor setup or using dsmlink. The symptoms of this are basically that it will drive normal some times , but will sputter when getting on the throttle Sometimes, almost like it is running on 2 cylinders.

 

[RobAnd34]

I know exactly what is wrong with it, in my first post I notes the common misfire with a 6 bolt I'm a 2g. This is caused by using a 1g cam sensor with a 2g ecu. It is easily fixable by wiring a 5k potentiometer into the Barometric pressure sensor that comes from the Maf sensor. There are a ton of write ups out there about this. There are also other fixes such as using the kiggley crank sensor setup or using dsmlink. The symptoms of this are basically that it will drive normal some times , but will sputter when getting on the throttle Sometimes, almost like it is running on 2 cylinders.

Yeah! That sounds about whats going on with my car! Do you have a link to how to fix this may I ask?

 

[BigRed12]

Some of those, like the fuel pressure solenoid, will prbly never go out, unless you put a new solenoid in. My talon, for example pulls the same p1105 code, but instead of worrying about it, I pulled the vacuum line going to the solenoid and it runs fine, CEL is on... but the car is good.

Other things like the EGR and evap may stay on becuase they were deleted during the swap. So look for the egr block off plate and look for the evap canister(if its not there thats why it threw a code).

So, unless you put everything back in, the only way the light will go out is if you remove your cluster and take out the bulb.

 

[97_4g63t]

Do not take the bulb out. Your check engine light is there to let you know something isn't right. Link will get rid of the check engine light for emissions if you deleted them and you can fix the cam sensor issue with it too.