2G Clutch won’t return

[TooLOUD]

Hi y’all just joined but I have a 1995 fwd tsi few mods nothing crazy but the car does sit a lot due to it not being plated or insured yet but it’s been a couple years I’ll drive it 20-30 minutes here and there and start it up frequently just to keep things moving but I had to replace my slave cylinder about a year/ year and a half ago because clutch pedal would snap to the floor and stick until I pulled a little bit and it would pop back up but absolutely no pressure so I replaced it and it worked fine car sat over the winter and I maybe started it 2-3 times and let it idle to operating temp for a bit but I got in it and wanted to go for a cruise around March and got in and pedal is doing the same thing why is it bad again I’m not leaking any fluid and I bled it properly when it was installed I just want to get to the root of the problem so I’m not replacing it every year any help is appreciated guys and as always keep it between the lines

 

[Vegas Smith]

Probably still has air in the lines. Get a speedbleeder and do it in one minute.

 

[gray98eclipse]

I had to deal with no clutch pedal pressure and I replaced the master and slave cylinder.

The only other thing is if you're not losing fluid and still have no pressure is to replace the clutch hydraulic lines themselves. Even if it's not leaking fluid if air is getting in you will have issues.

 

[Mech Addict]

I would suspect the clutch m/c at this point, since the spring pressure of the clutch is not forcing the pedal back to the release position (and the slave is new). If the m/c piston is loosing pressure, the fluid may just move past the piston and return to the reservoir. You may not see the leak from the interior. I believe mine failed this way (although 1g, so a little different). There was only a trace of leaking fluid visible from inside the car, and none under the hood, and my clutch went repeatedly down to the floor and stayed there. I could pull it up by hand, but it was basically toast from that point.

I don't see how faulty lines would let air in if there was not also fluid leaking out somewhere. The fluid pressure is likely up in the 100's of psi, while air trying to get in is 14.7psi tops. Only some weird kind of check-valve effect would do that. Do try the speed bleeder, though, to take that out of the equation. It should produce best results.