Clutch Install Problem

[Ill-EagleTSi]

Okay I have the engine and trans out of my car. I am swapping all of my 7bolt stuff over to the 6bolt that I just built.

Here is my Problem. Before I took the trans off my 7bolt engine, I could freely move the end of the fork that is sticking out of the bellhousing where the slave cylinder pushes. But now that I swapped the clutch and tranny over to the new engine it wont push by hand anymore. It moves the other way...Toward where the slave would be, But not the direction that the slave pushes. I havent' installed the new slave yet is that why I can't push it by hand?

Or is there another problem? Is the clutch not in right or something?


Let me know if you guys need more info to make sense of this.

 

[Ill-EagleTSi]

Okay I think the transmission was in gear when I put it on the engine. Do I have to take the trannsmission back off and put it back on the engine while its in Nuetral?
It slid right on the way I have it now, but I just want to make sure it's right before I put the whole engine and trans in together.

 

[GRAVEDIGGER]

You're alright. Don't panic man. You'll be fine if it was just in gear. There's no reason why you should have to take it back apart.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

I find it helps to have it in gear when you line up the input shaft to the clutch disk.

If you're worried about the fork, just turn the engine by hand first to make sure nothing hits in the bellhousing. It sounds like everything's fine to me.

 

[Ill-EagleTSi]

Okay thanks guys. The only other thing Im worried about is I got a used 6 bolt flywheel from this guy. He said it didnt need Machining. So i just put it on. Im reusing my clutch with 4000 miles too.

Will this be okay? Or does it absolutely have to be machined? Im just doing a stock build. Im not shooting for 10's or 11's

 

[TSiAWD666]

The only way you'll know for sure is if you look at the condition of the flywheel (excessive heat marks, uneven surface with perhaps warping, and cracking are the big things) and measure that the step height is correct for your clutch. I suspect it passed visual inspection since you're using it, but if you didn't measure step height you could be in for an unpleasant surprise.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

It's in the car now, see how it feels. I personally wouldn't use a used clutch on a resurfaced flywheel or vis-versa, but if they both looked ok, than there you go.

 

[Ill-EagleTSi]

Well I didnt put the engine and trans in the car yet. So do you guys think I should get the Flywheel resurfaced, then get a New clutch kit with the disc and Pressure plate/ Throw out bearing?

I just got this clutch like 4000 miles ago. Thats the only reason I wanted to reuse it. But I guess I could save up some money and do it right.

The flywheel looked great, I got it from Bill at Showdown Motorsports. He has an 8 second Laser...he told me it was Good to go and didnt need any machine work. It looks NICE. No cracks that I can see, NO heat marks like my old 7 bolt flywheel and NO grooving or uneven wear. Its SMOOTH as a whistle. I took a little 800 grit emery cloth and cleaned the surface.

What does the step do? is that how deep the flywheel surface is below those notches?

 

[snowborder714]

Read through this. It'll explain the step, as well as how the clutch fork should sit inside the boot (very last thing on the page).
RRE's Clutch And Flywheel Tech Info

 

[untouchablecc]

If you feel the flywheel looked fine then let it go. If you clutch is that new use it. If its a stock clutch an you have a turbo back exhaust an 16g it wont last long. I threw a new fidanza flywheel an factory clutch an pressure plate on cause i didnt have the cash for a good clutch at the time an it got me around till i could i just couldnt beat on the car cause i didnt want it to slip on my new flywheel. The clutch had 87000 on it i just made sure it wasnt glazed. So if you have those mods dont beat it but your clutch will work. Now when it comes to your clutch if you cant push in the shift fork its because the slave wont let you i had this issue. Is this an aftermarket clutch? What i did to fix my clutch issue is have someone push the pedal ten times an hold it while you crack the bleeder valve open. I did this three times. Personally i take a vacuum line an stick if over the bleeder an run it into a glass jar with some fluid in it so i cam visually see all the air coming out of the line. If its still have this issue where you cant push the slave rod in then you need to adjust under the clutch pedal. There is a video on jacks transmisson that is very helpful. I hope this helped you out.

 

[Ill-EagleTSi]

Read through this. It'll explain the step, as well as how the clutch fork should sit inside the boot (very last thing on the page).
RRE's Clutch And Flywheel Tech Info

^^^Wow this helped me SO much!!! ^^^

If you feel the flywheel looked fine then let it go. If you clutch is that new use it. If its a stock clutch an you have a turbo back exhaust an 16g it wont last long. I threw a new fidanza flywheel an factory clutch an pressure plate on cause i didnt have the cash for a good clutch at the time an it got me around till i could i just couldnt beat on the car cause i didnt want it to slip on my new flywheel. The clutch had 87000 on it i just made sure it wasnt glazed. So if you have those mods dont beat it but your clutch will work. Now when it comes to your clutch if you cant push in the shift fork its because the slave wont let you i had this issue. Is this an aftermarket clutch? What i did to fix my clutch issue is have someone push the pedal ten times an hold it while you crack the bleeder valve open. I did this three times. Personally i take a vacuum line an stick if over the bleeder an run it into a glass jar with some fluid in it so i cam visually see all the air coming out of the line. If its still have this issue where you cant push the slave rod in then you need to adjust under the clutch pedal. There is a video on jacks transmisson that is very helpful. I hope this helped you out.

Yeah its a XTD stage 2 clutch aka POS haha...I Think I have decided to just get a new ACT 2600 kit. I think that may be my best choice.

Cause I think the step is off on my flywheel...I could still slid the clutch disc around after the pressure plate was bolted and torqued down. THATS NOT RIGHT....RIGHT? it should be LOCKED up with the flywheel and pressure plate. NO?

 

[Colt4G63 also]

Yeah! The step is way too deep. Your clutch should be fully clamped down when you tighten the pressure plate down. It won't go anywhere that way.

 

[Ill-EagleTSi]

Yeah! The step is way too deep. Your clutch should be fully clamped down when you tighten the pressure plate down. It won't go anywhere that way.

Haha I knew something was wrong . I can still slid the clutch disk when the PP is fully bolted.

Im just going to put the project on hold till I can save some cash for a NEW act Clutch kit and then resurface my flywheel.

Im sorry this is off topic, but I can't seem to find the answer in my searches. Will a 2g 1995 Steering rack fit in a 1g laser? My buddy needs a rack for his 1g.

 

[untouchablecc]

Get the 2600 hundred i have it, excellent.

 

[1997_GSX]

Well I bought a used 1000 Mile ACT Flywheel for $60 and it was great, it only had I small heat mark and was flat, If it has a lot of purple / blue on it I would get it resurfaced. I didn't have to though.

I have a SPEC Stage 3 Clutch and I love it, Pedal pressure is close to stock. Has very little harsh engagement. and Holds like crazy!

 

[bslavsGSX]

ACT 2600 highly recomend it if u wanna do the 11s u were talking about..

 

[Ill-EagleTSi]

Okay I got the new ACT 2600 kit and I installed it. I have 130,000 miles so I shimmed the pivot ball. Now with the trans back on the engine the clutch fork is pushed to the DRIVERSIDE a little bit past the center line.

I have heard it should be in the center.

Was my washer too thick?

Should I not use a shim?

 

[snowborder714]

From what I've been told, the shim is just a band-aid fix. If you want to drop the trans again to see how it would be without the shim, I'd recommend doing that. But it sounds like it should be ok since it's towards the drivers side.

 

[Ill-EagleTSi]

From what I've been told, the shim is just a band-aid fix. If you want to drop the trans again to see how it would be without the shim, I'd recommend doing that. But it sounds like it should be ok since it's towards the drivers side.

Well I still have the engine an tranny out of the car. So it would only take me 2 minutes to take the shim out.

I keep hearing the ACT 2600 wont release all the way unless you shim the pivot.

So my question is:
If the fork is 100% centered in that opening will there be enough Fork travel to release my 2600 PP and clutch? Also I have a stock flywheel that has been resurfaced 1 time only.
I used a stock head bolt washer as a shim...it was like 2.65mm thick. Maybe I just need a thinner washer? What do you guys think? Or NO washer? New pivot ball?

 

[snowborder714]

If your pivot ball does not look perfectly round, I'd say get a new one.

I will be installing a 2600 this weekend (with Southbend disc and Fidanza flywheel) with all new OEM parts. If you can wait until then, I can let you know, as well as possibly posting up pictures. But I don't anticipate having to shim at all.

 

[Ill-EagleTSi]

If your pivot ball does not look perfectly round, I'd say get a new one.

I will be installing a 2600 this weekend (with Southbend disc and Fidanza flywheel) with all new OEM parts. If you can wait until then, I can let you know, as well as possibly posting up pictures. But I don't anticipate having to shim at all.

No my pivot ball looks perfectly round still. I just thought since the flywheel had some material removed I would need to shim the pivot point.

I think im going to take the shim out and see how it looks.