clutch fork ? of the day

[jbl_5star]

what is the main reason for the clutch fork to fail?
I have the ACt2600... but i guess i found my reason to why it was not engaging/disengaging properly?

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[DSM1G90]

stock forks are pot metal. Get a stronger fork with a massive clutch as the 2600.

 

[jbl_5star]

where would i get a stronger then stock fork from?

question remains thou,
whats the reason they fail?

 

[spyderdrifter]

I'm by far, not an expert so what I'm stating here is based off my assumptions and my job. Due to the forks being mad of pot metal, I'm sure there's probably some impurities within their mineral structure that naturally will weaken the metal. In addition, since they are mass produced and judging by the quality of the forks from my last 2 DSMs, they must have under gone very general quality control procedures. I haven't looked at the fork on my current eclipse, but will be in the next few weeks when I start reconstruction, and I'm sure it'll too be low quality. So to answer your question, my opinion is low quality fork engaging high quality pressure plate probably stressed the metal beyond it's recommended max strength. If I knew where to find a stronger one i'd let you know. I'm interested in getting one as well.

 

[red_devil]

You must of had some kid of issue as the stock fork is strong enough for a 2600pp. Most people on here run the oem one. Figure out your adjustment and any other issue first before you install a new fork.

 

[jbl_5star]

yea ive been havin maddd engagment problems, but that could be the stress had bent the fork.. I had changed out the lever in the clutch assembly, which help but didnt completely fix the problem.
So then can unproperly unadjusted clutch cause it to snap prematurely???
in the last couple months ive noticed that the fork wasnt snug against the slave rod... when id be at stop signs not in any gear, you could hear it clatter against the slave rod..
but i guess not, time to drop the tranny, change fluid and inspect tranny, clutch, pp, and flywheel..

any of yall know about adjustment, i might need some help on that (figuring i broke my fork) yea...

 

[red_devil]

YouTube - jackstransmissions's Channel

 

[jbl_5star]

yea i watched that already but the 2g assembly is diff then the 1g... plus im a halfwit idiot... . so it didnt make much sense<

 

[99gst_racer]

So to answer your question, my opinion is low quality fork engaging high quality pressure plate probably stressed the metal beyond it's recommended max strength.

^^^ Bingo. This is dead on the money. (albeit not necessarily "high quality", but heavier clamping force of the PP)

These don't fail often, but it's definitely possible and it does happen. They're around $65 brand new if that tells you anything about the quality of the material and/or the level of manufacturing involved. Running an aftermarket clutch can definitely reduce the life expectancy of the fork.


Billet steel forks were one available through Taboo, but you can't buy them new anymore. Once in a great while, a used one will pop up in the classifieds, but it gets scooped up quickly every time.

 

[GRAVEDIGGER]

what is the main reason for the clutch fork to fail?

Old ass cast metal combined with the 2600 pressure plate is the reason it failed. It's always a good idea to put in a new one whenever a new clutch is put in IMHO, especially if it's the original fork. I had to learn the hard way too when mine broke at the dragstrip. I went to pull up to the staging beams, pushed in the clutch, and wham it went right to the floor. It was bye bye clutch fork and I had no previous warning or clutch issues leading up to that. It's been a few years since I installed a new oem one and I haven't had any problems with it on the 2600 pressure plate.

 

[jbl_5star]

huh..
when i switch it out<
ill need a new pivot ball? anything else>? do i need a new bushing or bearing>?

 

[GRAVEDIGGER]

huh..
when i switch it out<
ill need a new pivot ball? anything else>? do i need a new bushing or bearing>?

Yeah, you'll want to replace the pivot ball and you might want to give the throw out bearing a good look while you're there. That should be about it. Make sure to put a dab of wheel bearing/high temp grease on the clutch fork where the ball stud goes and on the end of the fingers where it contacts the tob. This will help it pivot nicely and reduce the chance of binding or breaking again anytime soon.

 

[jbl_5star]

cool, now im going to go drop the tranny.. so ill post up pics.... I love my camera.

 

[sexystover]

let me know how tough it is, ive also been having weird engagement issues with an act 2600 but the guy before me said he already replaced the fork/pivot ball so im thinking maybe it need to be shimmed

 

[ReYnd]

For what it's worth, you may want to consider swapping from an organic disk to a full face kevlar deal and going with a pressure plate with less bite, like the 2100 or a similar product. That combination should grab just as well, if not better. That's my answer to keeping forks from breaking, though it's understandable if you don't want to spend that kind of cash.

 

[jbl_5star]

its not a tough project, just a bi*** and time consuming one< have to remove the cv... never had a awd, but i think i have to worry bout the transfer case>?
another question is about the v something DIFF, says on the door not to move wheels while jacked up because of the ""viscous limited slip differential""< so yea..
gonna inspect the plate, disk, tob, change fluid and reinstall< anything i need to do like "shim" or just a replacement?

 

[motomattxxx]

Dont worry about the viscous coupling or diff for what your going to be doing, thats just a warning not to try and tow it with wheels on the ground and that it can fall off of a jack if two of the wheels are moved while the other two are in contact with the ground.