fourgsixthree33
15+ Year Contributor
- 1,244
- 46
- Oct 25, 2010
-
Athens,
Pennsylvania
95 Eagle Talon TSi FWD with 4G64 Trans
2 months ago, I did a 6 bolt swap and also installed a new 4G64 trans. After the swap, I could not get the car to go into gear at all. It was either pull the trans and shim the pivot ball or replace the master cylinder and clutch cylinder. I decided to replace the master and slave before pulling the trans just in case that was the fix. Then I wouldn't have had to pull the trans back off.
The master and slave fixed the problem. All of a sudden, Monday of this week, I randomly started to have problems getting the car in gear while driving. It was drivable and would go into gear, I just had to push it in a little harder.
Yesterday about an 1/8 mile from my work, I downshifted and couldn't get the car in gear. When I let the clutch out, the clutch stuck at the halfway point. I eventually got it in gear with some effort and pulled into my work. Once I was stopped, I tried getting it into first gear and no luck.
So after work I called Advance Auto. They had a slave cylinder but not a master. So I walked my a$$ all the way to the parts store, walked back, put the new slave in, bled the system, no luck.
Today I swapped the master. Clutch pedal feels great. No air coming out of the bleeder when I bleed it. Still won't go in gear. If I put the car in gear, push the clutch in, then start the car, then car moves as if I didn't even have the clutch pushed in.
So I looked up inside the fork hole. Noticed that my fork is sitting more towards the passenger side of the car instead of the driver side like it should be. Then I seen that the fork was making contact with the bell housing.
I adjusted the master cylinder rod in, out, and everywhere in between with no change. I am guessing the trans needs to come out. But what is causing this? Why would I need to shim the pivot ball all of a sudden? Is the issue something else?
Clutch pushed in.
Clutch not pushed in.
2 months ago, I did a 6 bolt swap and also installed a new 4G64 trans. After the swap, I could not get the car to go into gear at all. It was either pull the trans and shim the pivot ball or replace the master cylinder and clutch cylinder. I decided to replace the master and slave before pulling the trans just in case that was the fix. Then I wouldn't have had to pull the trans back off.
The master and slave fixed the problem. All of a sudden, Monday of this week, I randomly started to have problems getting the car in gear while driving. It was drivable and would go into gear, I just had to push it in a little harder.
Yesterday about an 1/8 mile from my work, I downshifted and couldn't get the car in gear. When I let the clutch out, the clutch stuck at the halfway point. I eventually got it in gear with some effort and pulled into my work. Once I was stopped, I tried getting it into first gear and no luck.
So after work I called Advance Auto. They had a slave cylinder but not a master. So I walked my a$$ all the way to the parts store, walked back, put the new slave in, bled the system, no luck.
Today I swapped the master. Clutch pedal feels great. No air coming out of the bleeder when I bleed it. Still won't go in gear. If I put the car in gear, push the clutch in, then start the car, then car moves as if I didn't even have the clutch pushed in.
So I looked up inside the fork hole. Noticed that my fork is sitting more towards the passenger side of the car instead of the driver side like it should be. Then I seen that the fork was making contact with the bell housing.
I adjusted the master cylinder rod in, out, and everywhere in between with no change. I am guessing the trans needs to come out. But what is causing this? Why would I need to shim the pivot ball all of a sudden? Is the issue something else?
Clutch pushed in.
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Clutch not pushed in.
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Last edited by a moderator:
, I saw the comment about checking for walk and thought I was in the P0335 post I am also commenting in.
