Nayr747
15+ Year Contributor
- 248
- 1
- Feb 10, 2004
-
somwhere,
Nevada
So I replaced my leaking clutch master cylinder & rubber line with a braided stainless line and removed the fluid collection unit. Then I reverse bled (connected a clean hand-pumped oil can full of brake fluid to the bleed screw with a clear line) twice with the cmc rod backed all the way out & pushed in the slave rod a couple times, so I'm pretty sure there's no air in the system. Then I adjusted the clutch pedal per Jack's Transmissions' instructions by backing out the cruise stop switch as far as possible so the clutch pedal has the most travel it can get (it's a little less than 7" off the floor). I then turned the cmc rod clockwise until I can't push the slave rod in, then turned it counterclockwise until I can push it in and locked it in place. Then I checked for leaks, but everything looked good.
The problems is the engagement point is about an inch or less off the floor, and there's clutch drag. The whole point of Jack Trans method is to get the most travel out of the pedal, but it seems like the opposite happened. I have to pump it up every time I get in the car, picking the clutch pedal off the floor, and even then it's very hard to get into gear. The pedal also feels very weird. There's basically no resistance until a point close to the floor, whereas before I worked on it there would be pretty constant pressure/feedback from the pedal through the whole range. But I assumed that was because of removing the FCU.
I really can't think of what could be causing this. Any help would be really great.
Edit: Just went out and messed with it again. I measured the pedal height off the floor again with the carpet up and it's almost exactly 6" even though the shop manual says it should be 7.0-7.1". I don't get it at all because the cruise stop switch is literally as far back as it can go. So anything over 6" should be impossible from the factory. Nothing looks bent or worn either.
Another thing I noticed is that the point where the slave piston can't auto adjust and be pushed in by hand keeps moving after I set it. Three times now I've turned the master rod counter-clockwise to where I verified the slave can be moved and locked it, then after driving it and checking again, the slave can't be moved by hand. So I have to turn it further counter-clockwise.
The only thing that I can think of is when I was adjusting the first time I dislocated the slave rod from the fork to check if I could push it in by hand and didn't notice the boot had come off the slave housing. When I came back from adjusting the master rod, the slave piston had almost completely pushed out of the housing where I could see the o-ring and a tiny amount of fluid came out. But since I thought it might have let air in I bled again, so it should be fine..
The problems is the engagement point is about an inch or less off the floor, and there's clutch drag. The whole point of Jack Trans method is to get the most travel out of the pedal, but it seems like the opposite happened. I have to pump it up every time I get in the car, picking the clutch pedal off the floor, and even then it's very hard to get into gear. The pedal also feels very weird. There's basically no resistance until a point close to the floor, whereas before I worked on it there would be pretty constant pressure/feedback from the pedal through the whole range. But I assumed that was because of removing the FCU.
I really can't think of what could be causing this. Any help would be really great.
Edit: Just went out and messed with it again. I measured the pedal height off the floor again with the carpet up and it's almost exactly 6" even though the shop manual says it should be 7.0-7.1". I don't get it at all because the cruise stop switch is literally as far back as it can go. So anything over 6" should be impossible from the factory. Nothing looks bent or worn either.
Another thing I noticed is that the point where the slave piston can't auto adjust and be pushed in by hand keeps moving after I set it. Three times now I've turned the master rod counter-clockwise to where I verified the slave can be moved and locked it, then after driving it and checking again, the slave can't be moved by hand. So I have to turn it further counter-clockwise.
The only thing that I can think of is when I was adjusting the first time I dislocated the slave rod from the fork to check if I could push it in by hand and didn't notice the boot had come off the slave housing. When I came back from adjusting the master rod, the slave piston had almost completely pushed out of the housing where I could see the o-ring and a tiny amount of fluid came out. But since I thought it might have let air in I bled again, so it should be fine..
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I ordered the CMC online, but it was the OEM manufacturer.
