clutch adjustment is maxed

[droppinbottom]

That last comment has me a little confused. Are you saying to climb under the car and try to push the slave cylinder rod in with my hand? If that is what you are saying then I would hope I could not do it by hand. There is a act 2600 in there.

Elaborate for me if I did understand you incorrectly.

 

[eclipsh]

OK, that needs some elaboration. When you push on the clutch pedal it pushes the slave rod OUT of the slave cylinder INTO the fork and releases the clutch. What we're talking about is pushing the slave cylinder rod INTO the slave cylinder, i.e. away from the clutch. When the system is at rest you should be able to push the rod into the cylinder with just your fingers.

If you CANNOT push the slave rod into the slave cylinder with your fingers then your master cylinder rod is threaded too far out of the pedal. It is not allowing the system to rest and reset. THEN you need to do what I've been talking about with threading the master push rod into the pedal as far as you can etc etc.

If you can push the rod in then your master cylinder adjustment rod is not out too far and your system is balanced but not functioning properly for some other reason.

So just crawl under your car, reach up to the slave rod and try to push it into the cylinder. Let us know what happens. You can also just push the base of the clutch fork towards the driver's side, it is easier and will do the same thing.

 

[droppinbottom]

Well I learn something new everyday. I got under there and yes I can push the rod into the slave cylinder.

 

[eclipsh]

Shit.




Well that would have been the easy fix. The next step will be installing your new parts and going from there.

 

[droppinbottom]

Well after a month I finally got things back on the car. I have installed a new master, ss lines from jnz, and a new slave cylinder. After doing this I also welded a nut onto the back of the U shaped piece on the master to give me a bit more adjustment room.

The issue I am having now is when I bleed the lines I still get some air. I am doing it where I put a hose on the bleeder valve and then putting the hose into a bottle of clean fluid. Just when I think I got all the air out I will do it one last time for good measure and then a tiny bit more air will come out. I thought that maybe if I drove it with just a little air if any in the lines it would work its way back into the reservoir.

Also I have been playing around with engagement points and I thought I had it set pretty well but after driving it at lunch today I cant get it into reverse without it grinding. Yes I added another nut to the back of the pushrod as a locker to make sure the pushrod did not spin on its own. Anyone got any pointers. I hope I can make it back to the house today

 

[Morphius]

Make sure you didn't open the bleeder on the slave too far. If you do, it'll let air in around the threads.

 

[droppinbottom]

Good point but I am pretty sure I did not open it very much at all. Just tried to crack it open enough to let some fluid out, very similar to when I did my breaks at the same time. The breaks were done within one or two times of bleeding with no problems.

 

[chavez408]

It wouldn't be the tranny bro? Because my car has had the same issues and now it pops out of gear at 4th and 2nd.

 

[droppinbottom]

And the aggrivation continues

Well I had adjusted the clutch and everything seemed to be working great. I was getting smooth shifts and I thought everything was good to go.

After about two weeks I get into the car this morning to head to work and I notice as soon as I start to pull out of the driveway that the engagement point has changed. I was a little concerned but figured I would look at it this evening when I got home from work. Well I am half way to work and the pedal does feel soft, I pull to stop light and when light turns green I push clutch pedal in and try to put it into gear. Wasn't happening. I am like shit cars behind me are getting pissed so I shut the car off put it into first and then with the clutch pedal to the floor I start the car in the hopes of atleast getting it out of the intersection. It starts but starts to creep forward from the clutch not working fully. I manage to slowly get it to work making sure that I could upshift but downshifting was a real bi***. It feels like the pedal is very soft and no matter how many times I pump it, it does not build pressure. My boss is going to grab some wrenches for me today while on lunch since I am kind of stuck at the office. I am going to try to bleed the clutch one more time to see what happens but this is really starting to get annoying.

I checked the reservoir and dont see any fluid missing, along with no fluid behind the master or none leaking from the slave cylinder. I know these are pretty simple systems but damn this is annoying. The only thing I cam seem to think is that I am getting air somewhere. I purchased the ss master to slave clutch line from JNZ a few weeks back and am wondering if one of the fittings somehow does not seal properly and is letting a tiny bit of air into the system over time??

Your thoughts are appreciated.

 

[dsm-onster]

If you DO NOT pump the clutch pedal alot . . . or wait 10-30 seconds and then push in the pedal, does it shift fine?

 

[droppinbottom]

No it still does not shift fine. The pedal feels very soft especially for there being a 2600 clutch in there. Pedal pressure almost feels like there was a stock clutch. Later this afternoon I will try to bleed the lines here at work if I can get under there and see if it helps any.

 

[droppinbottom]

Well it got a bit worse. Something inside was causing the problem and it finally gave way.
The tranny will be pulled this weekend and I will get to see what really went wrong. Either way it managed to smoke the clutch just sitting still.

 

[gpsturbo]

everyone does it wrong for so long...., the right way to fix your problems is not a longer rod, regardless of the clutch. the biggest thing and right thing is to change the clutch release fork just inside your bellhousing. they are all old and have worn out inside the curved area. regardless of whether or not you can see the wear. they are 35 bucks and you can take out all extra slave cylinder and master cylinder rods, the only other thing is if the pedal assembly is stripped inside the rotating assembly, the complete assembly is about 70 bucks. these two will fix all your problems, it just took me 3 years to get it right!