2G Clean block for new head gasket

[screwlegg]

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any opinions on how I should clean the block so I can put on another head gasket. It’s pretty bad I know!

 

[teamevolution2]

Die grinder

 

[screwlegg]

Die grinder

Will it scratch the surface. I never used one before

 

[ThunderChild]

Die grinder

I do hope that was a joke.

OP, I'd start with a soft wire brush and razor blades. Once you have most of the crap off, then use a straight edge and feeler gauge and check for surface level variance.

You could also use a flat stone and wet sand (otherwise known as "lapping") the block to get rid of minor imperfections.

Or just take it to a machine shop and let them take care of it.

 

[screwlegg]

I do hope that was a joke.

OP, I'd start with a soft wire brush and razor blades. Once you have most of the crap off, then use a straight edge and feeler gauge and check for surface level variance.

You could also use a flat stone and wet sand (otherwise known as "lapping") the block to get rid of minor imperfections.

Or just take it to a machine shop and let them take care of it.

I appreciate brother. Yea I looked up a die grinder and was like theirs no way that wouldn’t chip of the surfac!

 

[doubleclutch]

Not trying to be a jerk, but what do you intend to do with that block?

There is a crap ton of rust in the water jackets, all that will end up in your oil and cause some problems. Looks like a valve hit the piston too.

 

[linksys42]

there is a crap ton of rust in the water jackets, all that will end up in your oil and cause some problems.

The rust from your water jackets will not end up in your oil. Stuff some lint free clean rags in the passages and cylinders and clean and prep the surface for the new head gasket (if you want to assemble it as is) clean out cylinders and debris. But you really should remove the block break it down and have it hot Tanked and cleaned. Good luck.

 

[teamevolution2]

I do hope that was a joke.

OP, I'd start with a soft wire brush and razor blades. Once you have most of the crap off, then use a straight edge and feeler gauge and check for surface level variance.

You could also use a flat stone and wet sand (otherwise known as "lapping") the block to get rid of minor imperfections.

Or just take it to a machine shop and let them take care of it.

You can put a wire wheel on a die grinder and clean it

 

[screwlegg]

The rust from your water jackets will not end up in your oil. Stuff some lint free clean rags in the passages and clean and prep the surface for the new head gasket (if you want to assemble it as is). But you really should remove the block break it down and have it hot Tanked and cleaned. Good luck.

Thanks for the input. I just might take the block off since I’m already there, not sure yet tho.

 

[screwlegg]

Not trying to be a jerk, but what do you intend to do with that block?

There is a crap ton of rust in the water jackets, all that will end up in your oil and cause some problems. Looks like a valve hit the piston too.

Where does it look like a valve hit a piston at?

 

[teamevolution2]

Will it scratch the surface. I never used one before

No don't do that it was a joke but I have seen people do it that way

 

[teamevolution2]

I do hope that was a joke.

OP, I'd start with a soft wire brush and razor blades. Once you have most of the crap off, then use a straight edge and feeler gauge and check for surface level variance.

You could also use a flat stone and wet sand (otherwise known as "lapping") the block to get rid of minor imperfections.

Or just take it to a machine shop and let them take care of it.

Yes it was a joke but I have unfortunately seen people do it that way though.

 

[linksys42]

Thanks for the input. I just might take the block off since I’m already there, not sure yet tho.

If you're going to pull the the block and disassemble you might as well freshen it up with new rings and bearings and have The Machinist check all the measurements and clearances.

Where does it look like a valve hit a piston at?

I think he's referring to the valve relief on the top cylinder in your picture. It looks to me like it's just carbon that is flaked off, but hard to tell from picture on the internet. Test the head with water and compressed air. To see if all the valves are seating correctly. See Link.
https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-fluid-test-a-4g63-cylinder-head.420313/.

 

[teamevolution2]

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any opinions on how I should clean the block so I can put on another head gasket. It’s pretty bad I know!

All jokes aside you you can use a die grinder just buy some roloc bristle discs. I usually use some gasket remover and a gasket scraper or a razor blade.

 

[screwlegg]

If you're going to pull the the block and disassemble you might as well freshen it up with new rings and bearings and have The Machinist check all the measurements and clearances.


I think he's referring to the valve relief on the top cylinder in your picture. It looks to me like it's just carbon that is flaked off, but hard to tell from picture on the internet. Test the head with water and compressed air. To make sure correctly. See Link.
https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-fluid-test-a-4g63-cylinder-head.420313/.

Are u talking about the first piston(left valve release)

 

[linksys42]

Are u talking about the first piston(left valve release)

Yes the top piston in your picture and the top left valve relief. But like I said it's hard to tell from a picture on the internet.

 

[linksys42]

Do the test I linked buy bogus SVO to see if the valves are bent and not sealing in the seat correctly.

 

[screwlegg]

Yes the top piston in your picture and the top left valve relief. But like I said it's hard to tell from a picture on the internet.

Originally took the head off because of what I assumed to be bent valves. I did a compression test before I took it off and the #’s where mad off from each other. I’m not ganna lie it looks like just chipped carbon but idk I can kinda see where it might be a little “TINK” from a valve.

 

[doubleclutch]

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I can't tell if that is carbon or an indent.

The rust from your water jackets will not end up in your oil. Stuff some lint free clean rags in the passages and cylinders and clean and prep the surface for the new head gasket (if you want to assemble it as is) clean out cylinders and debris. But you really should remove the block break it down and have it hot Tanked and cleaned. Good luck.

My point was, if you are going to do all the work, it would be silly to leave all that debris in there. Clearly crap has fallen into the cylinders, what has fallen into the jackets we can't see? There is no filter on the coolant system, so that stuff will just circulate until it sticks somewhere or eats the water pump blades. About 2 hours more work and you can have the thing out and completely torn apart. That way you can get it to a machine shop and have it cleaned and freshened up.

 

[screwlegg]

Do the test I linked buy bogus SVO to see if the valves are bent and not sealing in the seat correctly.

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I can't tell if that is carbon or an indent.



My point was, if you are going to do all the work, it would be silly to leave all that debris in there. Clearly crap has fallen into the cylinders, what has fallen into the jackets we can't see? There is no filter on the coolant system, so that stuff will just circulate until it sticks somewhere or eats the water pump blades. About 2 hours more work and you can have the thing out and completely torn apart. That way you can get it to a machine shop and have it cleaned and freshened up.

Naw it’s just derbies. Your right, but honestly tho I would like to just get this thing on the road. Then when I get another car, tear this engine down and put a brand new 1 in

 

[ThunderChild]

For the cheap way, a shop vac, compressed, my aforementioned sift brushes and razor blades, and some good old elbow grease is your lowest buck, quickest option that's effective. If you're worried about the water jackets, get some bottle bore brushes with chuck attachments and clean them out with a drill. Then just exchange the coolant once or twice.

This will get it clean enough for a composite HG as long as there are no big gouges or dings. Frankly, die grinders, roloc wheels etc are risky if you've never used them for that reason, it's easy to take more off than you want.

 

[asexton6969]

https://www.amazon.com/Innovative-Tools-International-Super-Scraper/dp/B00005A9T1

These are designed for cleaning surfaces where gasket material is left. You must be careful as you CAN scratch the surface. Having said that....

With the amount of rust and debris in the cooling jacket, I would be opting to remove and have that block hot tanked.

 

[linksys42]

For the cheap way, a shop vac, compressed, my aforementioned sift brushes and razor blades, and some good old elbow grease is your lowest buck, quickest option that's effective. If you're worried about the water jackets, get some bottle bore brushes with chuck attachments and clean them out with a drill. Then just exchange the coolant once or twice.

This will get it clean enough for a composite HG as long as there are no big gouges or dings. Frankly, die grinders, roloc wheels etc are risky if you've never used them for that reason, it's easy to take more off than you want.

+1 ^ this.

 

[donniekak]

From the pics that block needs washed, bored/honed, and decked.

 

[linksys42]

From the pics that block needs washed, bored/honed, and decked.

It does, but I'm pretty sure we all know that he's just going to slap it back together and hope. Just trying to give him the best half measure way to do it.