2G Clean block for new head gasket

[screwlegg]

It does, but I'm pretty sure we all know that he's just going to slap it back together and hope. Just trying to give him the best half measure way to do it.

No, honestly I’d rather do it right the first time with the head off already. How much does a block weigh? This would be my first time messing with a transmission other then a transfer case.

 

[screwlegg]

https://www.amazon.com/Innovative-Tools-International-Super-Scraper/dp/B00005A9T1

These are designed for cleaning surfaces where gasket material is left. You must be careful as you CAN scratch the surface. Having said that....

With the amount of rust and debris in the cooling jacket, I would be opting to remove and have that block hot tanked.

How bad is taking the block off from what I got it down to now? I got a service manual but it don’t say much

 

[linksys42]

First off I'm going to say if you have never done anything like this before you’re going to need a factory service manual. That’s going to list all the procedures step by step and all the specified torque values for all fasteners. It would also greatly help if you have a friend that has experience and for a second set of hands. Second this is more likely not going to be cheap with The Machinist costs and parts Talley depending on what condition the existing internal parts of the engine are in. You’re going to need an engine hoist, it will make your life a lot easier if you had an engine stand also. You're going to need to disconnect the CV shafts from the transmission / diff, then disconnect all associated engine harness/wiring/hoses/lines/ misc from block and trans. Drain all fluids. Hook engine hoist up to block and try to balance it as best you can. Put a light tension on the Hoist. Then disconnect motor and transmission mounts. And pull motor and transmission together up and out of the engine bay. Then get the transmission and engine partially on the ground then separate the transmission from the block. With your experience I would just take the block assembled to a qualified Machinist that’s reputable and have him go over it and check condition, measurements and clearances. At the very least you're going to need to probably purchase/replace oversize Pistons/rings, head bolts, Main and rod bearings, complete engine gasket kit, I would just replace the oil pump front case, timing belt, tensioner, idler pulley, tensioner pulleys, and water pump. There are quite a few other components that can fatigue and be out of spec that could need replacing also. And then the associated labor/cost of The Machinist / machine shop which is going to be the largest bill. Good luck.

 

[screwlegg]

First off I'm going to say if you have never done anything like this before you’re going to need a factory service manual. That’s going to list all the procedures step by step and all the specified torque values for all fasteners. It would also greatly help if you have a friend that has experience and for a second set of hands. Second this is more likely not going to be cheap with The Machinist costs and parts Talley depending on what condition the existing internal parts of the engine are in. You’re going to need an engine hoist, it will make your life a lot easier if you had an engine stand also. You're going to need to disconnect the CV shafts from the transmission / diff, then disconnect all associated engine harness/wiring/hoses/lines/ misc from block and trans. Drain all fluids. Hook engine hoist up to block and try to balance it as best you can. Put a light tension on the Hoist. Then disconnect motor and transmission mounts. And pull motor and transmission together up and out of the engine bay. Then get the transmission and engine partially on the ground then separate the transmission from the block. With your experience I would just take the block assembled to a qualified Machinist that’s reputable and have him go over it and check condition, measurements and clearances. At the very least you're going to need to probably purchase/replace oversize Pistons/rings, head bolts, Main and rod bearings, complete engine gasket kit, I would just replace the oil pump front case, timing belt, tensioner, idler pulley, tensioner pulleys, and water pump. There are quite a few other components that can fatigue and be out of spec that could need replacing also. And then the associated labor/cost of The Machinist / machine shop which is going to be the largest bill. Good luck.

Damn i would have take out the whole transmission. Thanks for writing back but honestly I don’t think I have that kind of $ or time atm. Plus it’s summer in Florida so temp are like 100 and it’s in the hot sun away from my tools :/ . What’s the worst case scenario that would happen if I put new head on. First off I have no clue if that’s a tink on piston 1 and second what if there’s a lot of debris in cooling jackets?