check valve.

[2gdanny]

hey guys i been searching for a check valve.
searching ffor a non oem check valve something that will be better then the oem one, the place i get all my fittings and braded lines, they have this one check valve it looks really good im just wondering if it will do the job.

-6 MALE CHECK VALVE ASSEMBLY ALUMINUM CHECK VALVE only $46.25 - Check Valves

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Are you specifically wanting something threaded? This one, from U.S. Plastic Corp, is $1.49 and has been used a lot by DSMers without any problems. I just got a few myself. They are rated to withstand up to 150 psi. The only thing is they aren't threaded like the one you posted.

Where are you looking to install them? I was originally just looking to put one on the PCV line but after talking to Calan, I'm also putting one on the brake booster line and one on the fuel tank vent line to replace the factory check valves.

Not sure if this is what you are looking for but I hope it helps!

 

[blkgst97]

Check Valves | U.S. Plastic Corp.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

^^^ Too slow

 

[Calan]

I was originally just looking to put one on the PCV line but after talking to Calan, I'm also putting one on the brake booster line and one on the fuel tank vent line to replace the factory check valves.

Uhhh... Just to clarify...

I said I was using them for these purposes with good results, but I'm not necessarily advocating replacing the factory booster valve or tank vent valve with one of these. They are working great for me, but YMMV....so do it at your own risk.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Uhhh... Just to clarify...

I said I was using them for these purposes with good results, but I'm not necessarily advocating replacing the factory booster valve or tank vent valve with one of these. It works great for me, but YMMV. Do so at your own risk.

Didn't mean to misquote you. My brake booster line had been replaced and there was no check valve. I just installed the new one today. I read several threads about this being a big boost leak spot... Not anymore!

 

[Calan]

Didn't mean to misquote you.

You didn't. I just don't want someone to screw up their brake system or pressurize their gas tank until it goes boom...and then say "I heard that Calan said to do this".

 

[2gdanny]

i will only need one threaded, wich will be for the valve cover to intake manifold,
for the brake booster it doesnt have to be threaded, but i thought if i by one i might as well by tow.

as for the fuel tank vent i replaced the hard line from tank to engine bay and i have a small filter, in the back by the tank, i was getting tired off smeling like a gas station every time the hood was open.

just wondering of check valves i posted will work for the pcv and brake booster.
its hard to tell but i have 6an fittings welded on the vc, where the pcv valve was and on the nipple was.

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thankx,

 

[Calan]

Being -6AN and aluminum, the max pressure they can handle and flow should be fine. The only real question would be what is their crack pressure? You would want something around 1-2 psi or less...the lower the better.

BTW - That's a hella expensive check valve for PCV and booster lines.

 

[2gdanny]

sounds good so tomroow ill be giving them a call and finding out, anything lower then 1- crack pressure the better?

and the same one can work for the booster and valve cover?

also i have one jmf catch can, i feel like this has been coverd, and i have seen many posts about this, but it doesnt clear my thoughts.

is this the way i shouold run my catch can?

i know its not the best.

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.. after spending so much money on this build, anyhting under $200 is cheap.

 

[Calan]

Here ya go:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/366890-4g63t-pcv-system.html#post152169810

 

[LiquidX]

The check valve is rated to crack at .5psi IRC, however, the U.S. plastic piece is exactly the same and MUCH cheaper. You don't need to thread the check valve into the VC. The check valve is only supposed to be used as a back up for the PVC and you should still acquire a properly working PVC valve.

The U.S Plastic piece is fractions of the cost and works exactly the same. Your choice if you want some anodized metal or some plastic which do the same dang thing.

 

[2gdanny]

thankx that helps alot, i have looked it at befor just never understood it,
as i wasnt trying to run it back to the intake, as i dont have one anymore.

also i was trying to make the one catch can work instead off getting tow, what set up would you recomend as i feel like the stock set up would be the easy one and cleaner, but i will be running some boost.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Liquidx brings up a good point. The check valve is supposed to be used as a back up to the factory PCV valve. In your drawing you only have the check valve.

 

[2gdanny]

im honestly feeeling so confused as i dont have a way to installe my pcv valve any more becouse i have a welded fitting in its place.

and i only have one catch can, i dont have an intake pipe, as im only running a filter on the turbo.

im not asking any one to do the work for me but if some one could tell me / daw me on what is the way for me to run one catch can and then had the check valves.

ps.. im also thinking i might be getting this mixed up, isnt a pcv valve the same as the check valve?

 

[Calan]

im honestly feeeling so confused as i dont have a way to installe my pcv valve any more becouse i have a welded fitting in its place.

and i only have one catch can, i dont have an intake pipe, as im only running a filter on the turbo.

im not asking any one to do the work for me but if some one could tell me / daw me on what is the way for me to run one catch can and then had the check valves.

ps.. im also thinking i might be getting this mixed up, isnt a pcv valve the same as the check valve?

If you would just read the article I linked to, it would answer most of your questions.

Many people run catch cans with a filter on the outlet open to atmosphere, rather than tied to the turbo inlet. It definitely isn't the best way to go about it, because any vac at all pulling on the can is better than nothing. But if you don't have any place to tie in, well so be it.

On your welded PCV valve fitting... you could either:

1. Just run a check valve like you mentioned, or

2. Find an inline PCV valve with a hose nipple on both ends, rather than threads, or

3. Get a different valve cover that has the stock PCV threads, or

4. Run both VC lines to a catch can and block the PCV valve connection on the IM. If you do this, be sure to change your oil often because you will no longer be ventilating the crankcase during normal (non-boost) driving.

 

[2gdanny]

Thanks, after reading it alot of times I got it, I'll will be doing the stock improvment for now and I'll play as I go.

As for the check valves I posted above I got a response back today and the check valves crack pressure is between 1-1/2 to 2.