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"Cheap Mods" OK?

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roughidle

10+ Year Contributor
43
1
Jan 3, 2010
Watsontown, Pennsylvania
Are the "cheap mods" discussed in this thread - - "For the cheap bastards who can't afford the bolt-ons and just want a little more "umph".
Read the list of mods... "
Tech Guide: 1G 4G63t Upgrades: Stage 0 Power - DSMtuners

ok to do for a daily driver? I do not want to screw around with disconnecting by EGR, and vacuum lines etc, if it will hurt the car in any way. I am in a complete teardown of the entire front end of the car right now, engine, steering, clutch, etc, and I want to incorporate some of these ideas into my rebuild, but if it won't be worth it, (safely in terms of the car itself) I don't want to do it. I want the car to be fun to drive, and occasionaly take to the drag strip a few times over the summer. So, I am looking for some cheap upgrades now, but not at the expense of the cars computer or anything.

List of what I am doing:

Head rebuild
New rings
new exh manifold (as soon as I can find one)
rebuilt the 14b myself
rebuilt clutch master & slave
ss braided clutch line
poly sway bar and control arm bushings
new steering rack
rebuilt the p/s pump myself
new p/s hoses
port exh manifold (unless I can find a 2g or EVO III manifold)
clutch arm repair/weld
autolite platinum AP63 (I have always used autolite platinum -- is this ok ?)
remove ac compressor (probably, I just havent committed to it)
repair dog legs (infront of rear wheel)
respray entire car
full sound system (very last thing - important stuff first)
short shifter - -(possibly if everyone says its worth it)
catch cans on both lines off valve cover (custom making my own)
Holley 9mm plug wires

After all that, I am doing things step by step, carefully, making sure all parts are in order, etc etc I am very dilligent. Just looking for tips and tricks to pull a little more power from the ol girl.

Thanks
 
Do you have emissions? Prob not especially being on a 1g platform. Removing the vacuum lines eliminates potential leaks in the system as well as removing unnecessary parts. Only block off the EGR valve if you plan on cleaning out your intake manifold or going to an after market manifold. If not, then I wouldn't worry about it as all the EGR does is recirculates exhaust gas at low rpm/idle. It gunks up the intake manifold with carbon and some oil as well. Just follow the upgrade path and you'll be fine.
 
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Since your taking out the ac compressor I would reccomend also taking out power steering. This will free up some power (just like the ac compressor) If you take out the power steering I would suggest also taking out the power steering rack and getting a "manual rack" just because the manual rack is lighter and you will save some pounds.
 
The only reason I am getting rid of the compressor is because I have had the car for 5 years now, and I have never charged it once, and all of the seals, and the rest of the pain in the neck that goes along with the a/c system will probably need to be replaced anyway. I am definately keeping the p/s. I know it could free up ponies, but I will be driving daily, so I don't want to eliminate that just for that reason. Thanks tho
 
I don't understand what getting rid of A/C has to do with getting rid of power steering. I junked my A/C a long time ago but I'm keeping the ps for sure.

I think hes just saying as long as youre taking out the A/C you can take out the PS because youre already going to be taking stuff out and it frees up space and Its one less thing for the engine to have to power.
 
I want to say you rethink your spark plug choice..... seems every one I know swear by the NGK plugs...leave the autolites for the Fords
 
This is a DD, although he is giving up A/C, just because he is giving up one of his amenities doesnt mean he should get rid of all of his comfort.
IMHO its not worth it to get rid of the power steering. I would sacrafice the few unnoticeable HP lost for the comfort of turning my wheels..
 
This is a DD, although he is giving up A/C, just because he is giving up one of his amenities doesnt mean he should get rid of all of his comfort.
IMHO its not worth it to get rid of the power steering. I would sacrafice the few unnoticeable HP lost for the comfort of turning my wheels..

agreed, i was just clarifying
+1 on the NGKs
 
I'm still learning here guys, this is the first car/motor that I have ever owned/tore down that was not carbureted... I already replaced the ecu once, and I pretty much just wanted to make sure that removing the EGR and other misc vac hoses would not give the ecu any wrong signals or anything. I will be leaving the power steering in... THE ONLY reason for removing the a/c compressor is because I have the whole thing tore apart, the a/c never was charged/worked, and I really don't want to go through all the hassle of charging the system and them finding a ton of leaks and then replacing a ton of seals, I can't say it doesn't work though, when you push the button, it did engage, but there was no cold air and I believe it was like that for years before i even got the car. I understand that removing accessories for the motor to run will increase output, but as stated above, i don't want to sacrifice a little comfort for a few ponies. My main focus of this post was to obtain any slight tips or tricks not mentioned in the linked thread that I could incorporate into my rebuild without spending much (if any) money. This rebuild has been done on an extreme budget, as you can probably tell by how much of the rebuilding of components I did myself instead of just buying new ones. The satisfaction is nice as well. At least I think it is. :thumb:
I do have a feeling though, that even though I have been driving this car for a few years now, I WANT to have many years more with this car. As well as several facepalm's...:ohdamn:

Thanks for the help
 
Just stick with the copper plugs like NGK Bpr6es for up to ~17psi and Bpr7es for some more.
I've personally had better luck with the Br7es for my setup around 25psi.
I'm kind of unfamiliar with the Holley 9mm wires. Many have good luck with NGK as a good cheap stock replacement for around $50.
With a fuel pump rewire, your stock fuel system should be good up to ~17psi on the 14b. I'd recommend a logger asap to monitor your timing, knock, etc.
The 14b is a 300whp capable turbo that spools fast and makes great lowend torque.
I've had good success running them with 7cm housing, 38mm external wastegate at around 21-22psi.
 
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