charcoal canister removal

[maddogxx]

Ok so i removed the charcoal canister today and i am wondering what to do with this filter thing?

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Just remove it. You no longer need it. Thats all I did and didn't have, any issues.

 

[WES_393]

Clamp a hose to the metal hard line and run it at least out of the engine bay. I ran mine into the wheel well to vent fumes.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Clamp a hose to the metal hard line and run it at least out of the engine bay. I ran mine into the wheel well to vent fumes.

^^I agree with wes. Run the hose out of the bay somewhere.

 

[bryanwheat]

That is a check valve. I usually leave it in place on the line and run a line from there out of the engine bay.

 

[foxracing4500]

Clamp a hose to the metal hard line and run it at least out of the engine bay. I ran mine into the wheel well to vent fumes.

I would agree but why not trace back all the metal lines and remove them? I did this when I put my FMIC in and vented mine to the wheel also.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

That is a check valve. I usually leave it in place on the line and run a line from there out of the engine bay.

what route do you use to run it out of the bay?

 

[Marceldsm]

do i have to live the check valve on my 1g to ???

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

do i have to live the check valve on my 1g to ???

You dont really have to keep it. I've run without it no problem.

 

[nek]

I kept mine. Its not hurting anything and its to design.
To run it out of the bay just take the hose and route it under the frame.

 

[eclipsyco]

Ok so i removed the charcoal canister today and i am wondering what to do with this filter thing?

hey man i'm putting on a 4" FP intake with no recirculation holes... and now i need to remove the charcoal canister as well how did you do it did you had to to tap anything or what? your answer is greatly appreciated

 

[maddogxx]

hey man i'm putting on a 4" FP intake with no recirculation holes... and now i need to remove the charcoal canister as well how did you do it did you had to to tap anything or what? your answer is greatly appreciated

It was a pain in the a$$, it took me a while to figure it out but if I remember correctly this is the process I followed:

1. remove the foward bolt for the battery tray support that is easlily accessable(you will know which one because the other one (threre are only two) is burried behind the canister bracket).

2. remove the foward bolt for the canister bracket, real close to the bolt you just removed for the battery tray support.

3. unlatch the canister strap, this should loosen everything up. Now you can sort of rotate the cansiter and bracket so you can go onto step 4.

4. using a 1/4 in drive and 12mm socket I could just get it on the rear bolt of the canister bracket and slowly remove.

5. with the canister bracket fully unbolted you can finally access the rear bolt for the battery tray support.

6. once you have removed the battery support tray you have full access to remove the canister and bracket.

7 installation is the reverse of removal.

8. enjoy!

I think that is what I did, like I said I am going from memory, please feel free to reply with anything that I forgot or suggestions.

 

[jongraack]

It was a pain in the a$$, it took me a while to figure it out but if I remember correctly this is the process I followed:

1. remove the foward bolt for the battery tray support that is easlily accessable(you will know which one because the other one (threre are only two) is burried behind the canister bracket).

2. remove the foward bolt for the canister bracket, real close to the bolt you just removed for the battery tray support.

3. unlatch the canister strap, this should loosen everything up. Now you can sort of rotate the cansiter and bracket so you can go onto step 4.

4. using a 1/4 in drive and 12mm socket I could just get it on the rear bolt of the canister bracket and slowly remove.

5. with the canister bracket fully unbolted you can finally access the rear bolt for the battery tray support.

6. once you have removed the battery support tray you have full access to remove the canister and bracket.

7 installation is the reverse of removal.

8. enjoy!

I think that is what I did, like I said I am going from memory, please feel free to reply with anything that I forgot or suggestions.

I actually found it to be quite easy and it took about 45min to remove everything, including egr and hvac. I found that the brace located under the battery tray can be bent once the first screw is easily removed. After the first screw is out, pull up on the brace and wiggle the canister out, there is plenty of room. Make sure you unhooked the clamp and all hose to the cannister to make wiggling easier. After it's removed, you will notice a big grey check valve left behind. Use another (longer) vac line from the egr or hvac to attach to the check valve and feed under the car if you'd like. Some people just remove it and some don't. Personal preference here. After the canister is taken care of it is very easy from there.

 

[eclipsyco]

Thanks guys taking note!! Gonna do that this weekend.

 

[jongraack]

Just be sure to check, double check, and triple check when you are done for any loose connections around where you were working and be sure to cap everything real well that is needed.

 

[berkut]

I recently did this and make sure to keep the EVAP and EGR solenoids plugged up electrically or you will throw a code. That is if you opt to remove these vacuum lines along with the charcoal canister lines.

 

[maddogxx]

I actually found it to be quite easy and it took about 45min to remove everything, including egr and hvac. I found that the brace located under the battery tray can be bent once the first screw is easily removed. After the first screw is out, pull up on the brace and wiggle the canister out, there is plenty of room. Make sure you unhooked the clamp and all hose to the cannister to make wiggling easier. After it's removed, you will notice a big grey check valve left behind. Use another (longer) vac line from the egr or hvac to attach to the check valve and feed under the car if you'd like. Some people just remove it and some don't. Personal preference here. After the canister is taken care of it is very easy from there.

Yup i plan on getting some hose tonight and vent it out of the engine bay, thanks again for all the help guys!

 

[97awd-turbo]

I recently did this and make sure to keep the EVAP and EGR solenoids plugged up electrically or you will throw a code. That is if you opt to remove these vacuum lines along with the charcoal canister lines.

I know it's been a while but have question related to doing this as I'm doing a clutch change and got an fp intake and don't want to tap another hole for something I can ignore. Question: take off all the hose, cap the ones on the throttle body, vent the one with hard line canister hose away from engine and leave the egr and evap electronics plugged in and I'm set? I have a 97 so don't want to delete Egr. Someone please verify?

 

[spyderdrifter]

So are you wanting to remove all the egr lines, but leave the egr valve in place on the manifold? If you did that, you'd have to cap off hard lines on it too (or loop one to the other). You also have the fuel pressure regulator, boost solenoid, and wastegate to think about.

 

[97awd-turbo]

So are you wanting to remove all the egr lines, but leave the egr valve in place on the manifold? If you did that, you'd have to cap off hard lines on it too (or loop one to the other). You also have the fuel pressure regulator, boost solenoid, and wastegate to think about.

I'm not too familiar and is getting confused to egr delete which I don't want to do. since the lines are coming from charcoal canister can I remove the canister and just cap the 3 Tb vac and leave egr and Evap open? i have ecmlink but I read that you can't work around egr

 

[Kryndon]

I'm not too familiar and is getting confused to egr delete which I don't want to do. since the lines are coming from charcoal canister can I remove the canister and just cap the 3 Tb vac and leave egr and Evap open? i have ecmlink but I read that you can't work around egr

There are both pros and cons to deleting the EGR valve/system. I wont go over them as to not cause an argument, but if you do want to do it, it is literally just making a block-off plate (or buying one) and deleting all the hoses connected to the EGR valve. It's a 20 minute job and a bit of RTV.

Easiest way to cap off the 3 TB openings is to get a tee and run short hoses to it; clamp it down with some zipties and make sure it doesn't leak.

Additionally, to confirm what others have said, if you leave your EVAP/EGR solenoids UNPLUGGED, they will throw codes P0443 and P0403. They always come on regardless if you clear them. So just keep the solenoids plugged on via the electrical connectors.

 

[spyderdrifter]

If you don't want to buy a block off plate, if you decided to delete the valve completely, you could pull the plate off of a 1G DSM with the 1.8 engine, or the mid '90's Galant with the 4g64, which is what my block off came from. You could simply pocket the plate and no one but you would know.