changing the purple on the greddy S

[VanIsleDSM]

so, I'm not a big fan of the purple top on the GReddy S, it's pretty ugly looking, I was thinking of taking off the top and refinishing it with some of the blue anodized paint you can buy, anybody done this or have some pics of what the anodized paint looks like on a well done job? Thanks.. I'll post up some pics when I do it.

 

[SRTthis]

soak it in oven cleaner to get the purple off.

 

[DSMunknown]

soak it in oven cleaner to get the purple off.

Interesting suggestion. I wonder what it would look like without the purple. Probably an unfinished piece of metal. I should of tried that.

 

[VanIsleDSM]

I was thinking of using a little wire wheel on my dremel, there are a couple nicks in the surface I want to sand out too.. then I'm gonna polish the bottom up and possibly just polish the top too, maybe use some blue anodized paint, but I wanna see what it looks like.. do you just spray it on bare metal? I still want it to have the metalic look, it's supposed to rain here for the next few days, so before I install it I might aswell get it looking purdy, I already polished the pipes I got.

I'll go look around now but while I'm posting, does anybody have a diagram of the inside of the bov? I don't wanna take it apart and have the 'boing' parts everywhere effect..

 

[drocks22]

It is just two springs on the inside if I'm not mistaken, but post pictures of this project after you complete it. It sounds like a great idea

 

[MrBoxx]

I used some grayish/silver anodized-look paint on my intercooler pipes. I first sprayed on a basic primer on the steel pipes, then the Anodizing Base Coat, which is a very silvery color. You need to do this on any material that's not already metallic and ready to be painted. Since the BOV is already anodized, you'll probably want to prime it and put on a base coat. Then I put on several coats of the anodizing paint. I can't say that it looks actually anodized, but it did turn out very well. I have a feeling that a different color of the anodizing paint may turn out better, since it should reflect light a little more. Blue should look nice. If I end up doing the rest of my upper intercooler pipe in the same way, I might "anodize" my 1g BOV a different color, like red, or something just for fun.

 

[DSMunknown]

Pictures, Eric? I was hoping you had some in your gallery, but yours doesn't seem to exist right now

 

[wvturbo2]

What's wrong with the purple? It's pretty nice.

 

[MrBoxx]

Pictures, Eric? I was hoping you had some in your gallery, but yours doesn't seem to exist right now

Not that my gallery ever had anything worthwhile in it to begin with, but all the pics got wiped with the server transfer. I have the day off tomorrow and hopefully the sun will come out, so I'll get a few shots of the pipes and the paint-job. Keep in mind, I've never spray-painted anything before, but I have to say that the pipes turned out very nice with no blemishes. As for looking anodized.... I'd have to say that they don't. They paint does look very 'deep' though, which is about as close to anodizing as you're going to get with spray paint. Like I said, though, the other colors (blue, red, yellow, etc) may turn out better because they'll reflect more light.

 

[VanIsleDSM]

I wonder if there's a semi-clear type anodized paint that you can spray on bare polished metal to get a better effect.

 

[kawboy]

There is, it's called Duplicolor Metalcast.

 

[MrBoxx]

Duplicolor Metalcast is what I used on my IC pipes (pics to follow tomorrow). To do it properly, though, you'll want to spray on a few coats of the Duplicolor Metalcast Ground Coat, which is a reflective coating that gives a uniform base. You can use the Ground Coat on anything not metal, also.

Here's how I did my IC pipes: 2 coats of Krylon RustTough enamel primer, 2 coats Duplicolor Metalcast Ground Coat, then 3 coats of Duplicolor Metalcast Color (Smoke) Paint. I followed the directions and went by the recommended interval between coats and it turned out very well. I have a bit of leftover steel pipe that I may do in another color, just to see how well the other colors turn out, and like I said, I might do my 1g BOV or my strut bar or something.

 

[kronus]

Pics? That is, MrBoxx, do you have any pickity pics?

 

[daren_p]

soak it in oven cleaner to get the purple off.

You sure this will work, the purple isn't a paint, it's anodized so I doubt oven cleaner will do anything. Sandblaster will work great to give it a good surface to start with then use a good primer & finish with the type of top coat you want. I used the Duplicolour Metalcast paint on my 1g valve. Sandblasted it first, then used the silver metalcast base coat and finished it off with the candy apple, came out with a very nice finish. Would defently recommend that system. I didn't want the red anymore so I re-did it with just the base silver, which looks good as well.

 

[MrBoxx]

For all of you who wanted me to take I picture, I just wanted you to know how hard it is to take an up-close picture of something very shiny and have it turn out good. Just so you know...

As requested, and as promised:

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Overall, I'm very happy with the way the pipes turned out, but less happy with the way I had to butcher my bumper to get it all to fit. I may be switching bumpers sometime anyway, so I guess it won't matter then.

 

[eclipsegsx1736]

I "anodized" my type S using the Duplicolor red Metalcast. I first took of the purple off with oven cleaner. Make sure to get it completely off and use steel wool, it should be VERY shiny, like chrome. It actually looks very nice as is. If you use Metalcast, do NOT use the ground coat on the type S. The metalcast gives it a true anodized red look, very shiny, more than the stock purple. The ground coat is only used if you're anodizing something that isn't already polished/chrome, i.e. a valve cover. I had pics in my gallery but it was vaporized in the latest server transition, I'll re upload when I get a chance. The red looks very nice but I liked the chrome a little more, I'm going to remove the anodizing soon, have too much red in the engine bay.

I used the metalcast ground coat + red metalcast on the valve cover and it's nice. Just make sure you give it at least a week to cure, I didn't the first time and it turned an orange color much like the new 4g eclipse orange.

 

[VanIsleDSM]

Alright, I did it tonight, got some metalcast blue.. I didn't take a before pic but you all know what it looked like.. I used a wire wheel on my dremel to take off the purple.. then I started sanding.. after about 5min I realized I was sanding like a sucker.. I took one of the mounting bolts for the BOV and threaded both mounting nuts onto the bolt and locked them onto each other leaving a few threads at the top.. thread on the bov, mount in drill.. sand with ease. I started with 100, 150, 220, 400, and left it at 400 as per instructions, I think if it was too smooth the paint wouldn't adhere.. I did however polish it after with some mother's aluminum polish in the same manner I sanded it.. I cleaned with soap and water, masked off the back and made myself a hook with some solder to hang it from.. then wiped it down with some methyl hydrate and hit it with 5 light coats..

I was happy with the look after 3, I put on 2 more because after a week or so when it's fully cured I plan to take some cut polish to it.. I want to get rid of the specal patern inherant with rattlecan painting.. I would wetsand with some 2000grit but I don't know how this kind of paint would react to wetsanding.. maybe I'll experiment.. just some cut polish back on the drill should do the job though... followed by some polish, deswirl, and a sealant.

Overal I'm happy with the look.. not exactly anodized, but cool anyway.. it'll look better when it's been smoothed out..

Still trying to decide what to do with the bottom of the BOV, may polish it all.. or I might paint it the same colour as my valve cover and polish the raised "GReddy" on the bov, just as the valve cover... I also have Greddy IC pipes I'm putting on.. the elbow that connects the IC to the upper IC pipe has the same scheme as described.. gunmetal with raised polished letters.. so it would all match nicely this way.. but I'm tempted to just sand out all the casting marks and give it a nice polish.. it will be a bi*** though. .I might get annoyed half way through and just paint it.. we'll see.


Edit: forgot.. when I opened up the BOV I noticed the lubricant all throughout it.. after it's all clean and going back together, what should I lube it with? just some engine oil?

Maybe I'll do a howto after I'm all done... 'How to Make your BOV Look Good'


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[eclipsegsx1736]

hmm..Before I painted mine it was a glass-smooth chrome finish, and after the Metalcast it was still glass-smooth. Using a dremel tool may have scuffed it up..Using oven cleaner takes off the anodizing without scuffing, then you use fine steel wool to give it a very nice shine, that's what worked for me.

 

[VanIsleDSM]

It was definitly smooth before the paint went on, I bought the BOV used, it had some nicks in the surface (which isn't smooth to start with, it's machined) the wire wheel took off all the purple and all the machine marks, then I put it on the drill and sanded it down to 400, like the instructions on the metalcast can said to do.. I then polished it with aluminum polish, it was sparkling and smooth before the paint went on.. I'll just buff it out, that's why I put on 2 extra coats, to buff off and make it smooth, and then with less paint you'll see more of the shiny metal underneith.. just have to wait for it to fully cure.. maybe yours went on differently because it has the machine marks to help it stick better.. not really sure about that.. or maybe it's that I'm definitly on the colder side of the painting tollerance this time of year.. I use a blowdryer to help between coats..

 

[daren_p]

Mine came out a nice smooth & glossy finish as well, without any clear coat. I started with a stanblasted base, which obviously isn't very smooth, then they silver base coat, then the red. Could have something to do with the temps if you painted it ouside and it was below normal rooms temps? Also how thick were your coats?, looks like you just barely "dusted" it with the paint which will give you the rough finish. As for buffing it since you put extra layers on, not sure how well that will work. Normally when you buff something, it is done to the clear coat layer, not the base colour layer. With this system you don't normally need the clear top coat to get the nice glossy finish, which I was pretty surprised with the first time I used it.

 

[VanIsleDSM]

it's very glossy, and quite smooth, any painted surface isn't perfectly smooth though, not like an actual anodized finish.. I think buffing it out will work fine.. you're right, normally these days buffing is only done to clear coats, but I've polished older cars with acylic enamel (no clear coat) but I'll try it on another surface to experiment first..

 

[VanIsleDSM]

alright, polished the paint, turned out very nice, also took all the casting marks outa the bov body and repolished it.. I think it looks pretty good, wish I took a before pic.. was used when I got it, looks much better now.. and unique.

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