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CEL - need QUICK advice.

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2G_RFF_GST

15+ Year Contributor
73
3
Jan 17, 2006
Watervliet, Michigan
I just got my car two weeks ago. it's been running perfectly fine. it has 64,000 miles on it. My "check engine" light just came on today. I checked the owners manual. it says the car is still drivable (obviously, since i can still drive it and i noticed the light while i was driving it) but i should take it to an authorized dealer soon to get it fixed. What are the potential problems? The gears don't seem to shift so smooth. My car is an auto. This car is my daily driver and i don't have a "winter beater" yet. I need to get the problem solved as soon as possible. also, i bought it from a used car dealership and it only had one previous owner, so it comes with a 6000 mile/6month warranty and the engine and transmission are covered under it. PLEASE HELP!
 
It could be a lot of things. I don't have an automatic, so I won't tell you what I think, but if you take it to an autoparts store (Pepboys, Autozone, Advanced Autoparts, Checkers, etc.) they can check it for free. Most of the time it's something you can fix in a couple minutes like a bad spark plug or loose wire. Just take it to the store for a quick check up.
 
I agree that scanning the OBD-II port is your first logical step as we can't tell what the CEL is for without the actual code being pulled by a scanner. Once you know the code, you can look at a reference table found here:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=191516

Drop us a line once you know the code and we'll let you know if it's somethng easy you can do yourself or if it's necessary to have it repaired under warranty.

Andy
 
my check engine is always on, cause of the rear o2 sencor...it sucks, But thank god for autozone, I can just bring it there, and make sure its nothing else LOL...I need to get that fixed.
 
On some model years, you can retrieve the fault code(s) by turning the ignition ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON within a five-second time period. Your ECU will then use the CEL to blink the stored fault codes. If you have a repair manual (Chilton's, Hayne's, etc.), this will give you more information on this topic. This may be an alternative if you don't have a scan tool or logger. Hope this helps.:thumb:
 
all right, i went to the dealership today, and fortunately it'll all be free and it's covered under warranty. I'll still make sure to get the code and say what was wrong and stuff so whoever reads this post can still learn from it. That way the whole thread wasn't a waste. i'm going in on monday. i'll report back once i get all the info.
 
went to the dealership. they're a bunch of cheap a$$ jacka$$es. I hate living near the biggest ghetto a$$ city in the world (Benton Harbor). So now i had to call another dealership and they ARE doing it on wed. But i have to drive 40-60min to get there. So i'll report back again on wed. I already talked to the guy and he's going to give me all the codes and everything anyone on here might want to know.
 
2G_RFF_GST said:
went to the dealership. they're a bunch of cheap a$$ jacka$$es. I hate living near the biggest ghetto a$$ city in the world (Benton Harbor). So now i had to call another dealership and they ARE doing it on wed. But i have to drive 40-60min to get there. So i'll report back again on wed. I already talked to the guy and he's going to give me all the codes and everything anyone on here might want to know.
Yeah, Signature Mitsu are a bunch of turds. Thay have no clue about dsm's, evo8's, turbos, or anything tech related. The best Mistubishi dealership in our area is Harold Zeigler Mitsu on Stadium Drive in Kzoo.
 
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