car won't stay on after 1g swap

[ADrewzki]

Did the swap. Bought the block from slowboy, reused my 2g head (I know I know.) Got everything timed up perfectly, turned over the motor with the engine fuse out to prime the oil pump. Put the fuse back and to turn the engine on and it fired! And then died just as quick. Can't figure out why it won't stay on. I have already checked for spark, fuel, compression, and the timing is dead on. Mechanically, there doesn't seem to be anything wrong because everything is working in sync when I'm priming the motor which makes me want to think it's an electrical problem. I do have a 1g CAS on it which is aligned correctly. I can't pinpoint the problem because the engine does catch and then just dies. Does anyone have any ideas? We tested the starter too.

 

[chaye]

what other mods do you have?
Are u using the 1g CAS?

 

[ADrewzki]

what other mods do you have?
Are u using the 1g CAS?

Yep. Using a 91-92 CAS and it's been wired up using the wiring directions off of magnussports 1g in a 2g swap page.

 

[44pirate]

Did you do a boost leak test, how about hold the trottle open when you crank it over.

 

[dave99gst]

do ya got a nice full charge ? everything grounded well ? does it start everytime you try it and then die , or did it just kick over the 1 time? man thats a weird one

 

[ADrewzki]

Did you do a boost leak test, how about hold the trottle open when you crank it over.

Tried holding the throttle open but it still dies on me. Haven't tried the boost leak test yet tho. I had a cracked exhaust valve one time that caused my boost to go down to 4psi vacuum and it still turned over fine. I'm not sure why having a boost leak would not cause my engine keep running after I turned it over.

do ya got a nice full charge ? everything grounded well ? does it start everytime you try it and then die , or did it just kick over the 1 time? man thats a weird one

Spent 2 hours charging the battery. It was fully charged. It starts everytime I turn it over and then dies.

 

[JATBarandgrill]

My friend had a similar problem. He had to mess w/ the CAS, turning it different ways.

 

[ADrewzki]

My friend had a similar problem. He had to mess w/ the CAS, turning it different ways.

I've tried it again today turning the CAS to different degrees. I can't really say it helped or didn't help the cause. Results stayed pretty much the same. I went ahead and tested it as well by taking it off the cam and rotating it by hand. I heard the spark fire and the injector hum and the voltmeter read 4.94-5.00 VDC. So the CAS is good. Anyone else have any ideas?

 

[ADrewzki]

Update: I fiddled with the spark plugs a bit. Seems like they were not in the right order which was part of my problem. The engine SOUNDS more promising now but it's still not catching. I forgot to put the plug cap back in when I removed my balance shafts so I had a small oil leak under pressure that I need to attend to. The only way I can get the engine to "idle" is by turning it over and at WOT. As soon as I let my foot off the gas, it'll die again. Hope that helps in troubleshooting this a little.

 

[dave99gst]

did ya mess with the injector pins @ the ECU ? ( like you are suposed to on a 95 ) if so are you sure there all contacting ? ( a way to verify this is while you "make it run" have a friend unplug a injector 1 at a time , the motor should basicly die or labor real bad. if one or more of them has no change in the way it runs when you unplug it then you have injectors not firing ) i only say this because ive seen it happen b4

 

[ADrewzki]

did ya mess with the injector pins @ the ECU ? ( like you are suposed to on a 95 ) if so are you sure there all contacting ? ( a way to verify this is while you "make it run" have a friend unplug a injector 1 at a time , the motor should basicly die or labor real bad. if one or more of them has no change in the way it runs when you unplug it then you have injectors not firing ) i only say this because ive seen it happen b4

Hm...I have not switched them at the ECU yet. I didn't think I need to if I swapped the spark plug wires. But assuming that the cam and crank signals are out of phase, could this cause the engine not to run except at WOT? It turns over, tries to catch, then dies. I'll swap pins 1&2 with 14&15 on the ECU and see if that helps. Thanks.

 

[chaye]

you have to switch the injectors as well.....the easiest way (this is the way i did it) is to swap them at the fuel injectors instead of at the ECU, but whatever works for you.

also what are u using to get rid of RM...?

 

[ADrewzki]

Update: Found out what the problem was and boy did I feel stupid. I had to put on a used head because my stock one took a crap. I forgot the o-rings on the lower part of the injectors. This was causing air to be sucked in through the injectors instead of through the intake where it could be metered. No metered air = no fuel = engine stalling. So ordered some new o-rings, tightened down everything, and voila! Good to go after 2.5 months of downtime.

 

[44pirate]

Did you do a boost leak test, how about hold the trottle open when you crank it over.

 

[ADrewzki]

Yeah yeah. You told me so. Sheesh!

 

[TEEJ]

hey guys sorry for bringing up a thread that's 11 years old but i'm having the same problem he was having. only difference is that i did the full 1g swap (block, head, intake manifold, etc.). i'm going to replace all injector pieces tomorrow morning and see if it fixes my problem like it did his. if not is there any way i could get someone to watch a video of what my car is doing and hopefully get some help on what it might be? thanks in advance.

come on guys! there's gotta be someone on this site to look at this thread after me posting. i'm on my way to the parts store right now to get my new injector crap. i'll put it on and test it and if there's no change i'll make a video on my cell and upload it for some troubleshooting.