Car won't Stay on :(

[jwahl16]

I recently posted about how my car won't stay on, after i put in a 16g turbo. Well here is a video of the rpms, i hope it helps diagnose the problem. I can take some more videos if you need, just let me know. By the way, this is complete idle, i didn't rev the gas at all to try and build rpms. The car just seems to build up on its own.

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[michaelnieves]

That happend to me and it ended up being a boost leak. I'd say most of the time that's the problem, but also check and make sure your timing is dead on.

 

[gofer]

^ +1 ^ BLT (boost leak test!) if you ONLY touched the turbo and IC piping then go through your install with a fine tooth comb, guaranteed you were so pumped to put in that 16g you missed something... we all do it.

 

[1993eclipseGS]

You either have a MAJOR boost leak, Or your MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR is not plugged in.

 

[jwahl16]

ok by boost leak do you mean i forgot to connect one of the hoses or something, or like a tear in the hose itself?

I am actually venting the stock boost control solenoid to atmosphere because my intake pipe was missing a fitting for it. Could that affect it at all?

 

[brassc2007]

if your car is not designed and set up to do that than yes
it will affect it

 

[jwahl16]

well i was wondering if anyone had done this with the same results. A guy at a speed shop said it would be fine, it only effects emissions. I'll order a fitting just to be safe and try to get that to work.

 

[dawid4444]

go throw again what did you touched and correct everything and you will be fine and you will know what was the problem

but i think that is some air sensor or boost leak

 

[gofer]

before you get worried about your idle go get 4ft. of 1/8" vacuum line and a pack of zipties at autozone, its like $.50 a foot.
hook everything up like i drew it... the BCS is the boost control solenoid, whatever vacuum line was in there and being used with the t25 get it out of there. wrap the two connectors with a small piece of vacuum hose like the 3rd grade drawing i did in photobucket. then, im assuming theres GOT to be a nipple for a vacuum line either on your j-pipe coming off the 16g or the LICP (lower intercooler pipe), you'll want to run another vacuum line from that nipple to your WGA (wastegate actuator) on the side of the 16g, theres a nipple on it as well.

*this is assuming you DO NOT have a boost controller*​

green - the vacuum line
red - the item, the arrow, & the name of it

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do this, or if you have done this, let us know so we can get that car running right!

 

[jwahl16]

ok so your saying i should run a hose from the BSC to the other side of the BCS?

Unfortunaly stupid me didn't get a nipple for my j pipe so i teed the BCS into my bov line. (Guy at the speed shop said to do that too)

Lol, i hope you enjoy my drawing

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[gofer]

don't listen to "speed" shops...
exactly what you said... vacuum line out the BCS right back in the BCS and leave it, never remove that thing theres no need to.
you absolutely need a vacuum source off the LICP somewhere and the only way to do it is to get one welded onto the j-pipe/LICP, get a stock 1g j-pipe that came off of a 14b since theres a nipple on those and its cheap, or buy a RRE LICP ($28) that has a vacuum source nipple welded to it...
if you'd like the stocker 1g j-pipe OR a link to the RRE LICP with the nipple welded to it PM me, i can help you out.
to go into boost you ABSOLUTELY NEED to have that wga hooked up to a vacuum source so it can control your boost. without it you'll blow up your turbo/motor... to get your car back on the road and driveable if you need to you can remove your wga from the 16g, you just won't be able to build any boost at all.

to get your car idling correctly hook up your BCS up like i drew and your bov vacuum line should go from the bov to the intake manifold...

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you still should do a BLT to make sure everythings still sitting solid after your turbo swap even if running your vacuum lines differently fixes your problem.

 

[jwahl16]

I thought the bov line would act as a vacuum source?

MBCs run off them, so why can't the stocker?

My BOV line still goes from the BOV to the intake manifold, i just have it teed in to the WGA/BCS.

I just don't understand why you want me to completely cut the BCS off.

Sorry for all the questions, thanks for your help

 

[1993eclipseGS]

Just go check your MAFS plug. If it's connected, Great.

Then check ALL YOUR IC PIPES to make sure they are all TIGHT AND TOGETHER.

THEN REPORT BACK TO HERE and write down what you found..

 

[gofer]

questions are good, thats how you learn man...
look at your IC piping as a whole, its pretty long right? the further from the turbo the longer it takes the wga to see the boost before it opens the wastegate flapper. thats why you want the vacuum source as close to the turbo as possible so that wga sees the boost right away and controls it.
you eliminate the use of the BCS completely because it isn't necessary to control your boost, thats what your wga is used for. you wrap the connections on the BCS so you don't get a CEL.

after you get the wga to a GOOD vacuum source and hook up that BCS correctly your gonna want a boost gauge so you know what your boosting.

 

[jwahl16]

ok well i have made a very peculiar discovery...

I unplugged my MAF and the car idled at about 1000 rpms, and did not sputter at all. It actually stayed on! After running for about a minute (longest it ever did). I plugged the MAF in and shortly there after it sputtered and died.

Does this mean i have a bad ecu, or that there is something going on in my intake?

 

[1993eclipseGS]

Please answer:

Did you check ALL your IC PIPES/clamps/couplers to make sure EVERYTHING is connected? 100% positive that they are ALL fastened together from turbo to ic to t/b????

Also make sure your intake pipe is tightened to the compressor cover housing, And mafs, Aswell.


Please answer the above questions so we can help you fix your car ASAP....

 

[gofer]

ok well i have made a very peculiar discovery...

I unplugged my MAF and the car idled at about 1000 rpms, and did not sputter at all. It actually stayed on! After running for about a minute (longest it ever did). I plugged the MAF in and shortly there after it sputtered and died.

Does this mean i have a bad ecu, or that there is something going on in my intake?

well your making progress but you still need to BLT and figure out a different boost source for your wga... fix your BCS setup yet?
when you disconnect your MAF the car should idle like crap (rich) since the ECU goes into safe mode because its blind to how much air is coming in... how hacked is your MAF? i know theres a mod from the mid '90s to hack up the honeycomb section, how hacked is your MAF? if you've taken out any of those honeycombs put them back. check the wires going to the connector and the pins on the MAF, if we come to the conclusion that you need a new MAF ive got a spare lying around PM me later if you need it.

 

[1993eclipseGS]

I have about 10mafs aswell, I would just send you one.

But, I still believe you just have a major boost leak, The only thing is, WE cannot check that for you. YOU need to quick run out to the car, and check over the entire intake pipe and innercooler/piping/clamps/couplers.

The car ran before you started the install, So that means you did something (or forgot to do something), During or after the install. (which is more then likly a loose or disconnected coupler/ic pipe.)

If you need any more help and cannot understand on the forum, PM me your phone number and i'll run you through over the phone on how to get your car fixed and running again. If you absolutly cannot figure it out, I will drive there and fix it for you.

Thanks.

 

[gofer]

you provide the beer ill drive out there too!
do the basics like 1993eclipseGS and i keep saying, we can't do it for ya! something as little as those emissions hoses going to the side of the intake will cause your car to die at idle... check everything!

 

[jwahl16]

Thanks for the feedback.

I took out the intake, unclamped everything, then reclamped everything back on reallly tight. Did the same to the ic pipes as you said. I actually tried to start it, before i put the bov dump tube back on and it gave me the same symptoms. I then clamped that down extra tight. So now it starts and stays on...yay!

The only thing is that it starts at 1500 rpms then drops down to about 900 and idles there. It DOES have an exhaust leak where the o2 housing meets the downpipe, i am going to fix that thursday. Is it safe to assume that the exhaust leak is the reason it idles low?

Again, thanks for all your help, gofer and 93eclipsegs. I'm glad to be making progress.

 

[1993eclipseGS]

I'm very glad you figured out the problem. As we both said from the first post, It is 100% a boost leak. The symptons are very very noticable.

If you need ANYTHING else, And need to know the same day within a few hours, Just send me a message. I answer all pm's/emails the same day within hours (but its' better if you pm me on here cause you know what happened with the entire email thing once in awhile).

Either way, Glad you fixed the problem! Let me know if you do decide to make the trip up for that free exhaust manifold and free install I offered to you!

 

[jwahl16]

Ok thanks, again. I'm going to stick to pms

I will definately let you know when i will drive up there!

Happy holidays

 

[gofer]

haha! found it!
well, even though your cars idling like a champ now still get those vacuum lines wrapped on the BCS and get a better boost source for your wga. its common for a dsm to jump in revs once it initially starts up, just so it settles and stays...
you two are damn near neighbors but same goes for me as well as far as car probs. im on here daily trying to learn how to fix my own car so i respond fairly fast to PM's.

next on your list is a boost gauge i hope? SBR is doing a holiday special on them right now, go grab one for cheap.

have a good christmas and stay warm, its 65* and sunny in san diego right now!

 

[1993eclipseGS]

It were just 18* here in my town the other day Waiting for the snow.