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1G Car won't start

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1990gst2

Probationary Member
11
0
Apr 27, 2011
Okc, Oklahoma
My car jumped time and bent some valves. So I put a new head on it and got everything hooked back up (Im assuming I got all the connectors hooked back up). But now the car will turn over but won't start. The timing is set perfect. I can hear the fuel pump kicking on. I have no idea what the problem could be. Any help would be great
 
My car jumped time and bent some valves. So I put a new head on it and got everything hooked back up (Im assuming I got all the connectors hooked back up). But now the car will turn over but won't start. The timing is set perfect. I can hear the fuel pump kicking on. I have no idea what the problem could be. Any help would be great

check spark and then check Cam and Crank sensors
 
I'm going to check the spark this afternoon. And the cam sensor is hooked up.
 
Fuel, spark and compression are needed to start the car. Did you properly install the cam angle sensor? You should turn your motor until it's TDC and then install the cam angle sensor (CAS). About 3/4 of the way down shows you how to properly install a CAS.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-electrical-wiring/289870-installing-1g-cas-2g.html

If it's not the CAS, check the link below, post 6 for a list of possible culprits.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/269002-car-wont-start-no-fuel-prime-no-spark.html
 
Has fuel from injectors, have spark, and pulled the CAS and it was 180 out. Fixed it put it all back together and still wouldn't start. Any ideas?
 
If you checked everything from the link above, post #6, then you can rule out everything that is not wrong, if you haven't, please do (checking with a multimeter that it is the correct voltage and/or resistance). Also if you didn't set your motor to TDC when installing the CAS, please do so.

If all those things check out, check to make sure you have everything grounded, no loose connections, 12+ volts battery with tight, clean connections, firing order, properly gapped spark plugs, make sure your plugs aren't soaked in gas, and if it has been sitting for a while, try some fresh gas.
 
Yes i had the motor tdc when I put I fixed the CAS. And I don't have a multimeter I'm going to have to barrow one from someone. And I'm getting spark so I font think it would be the ecu. But I'll still check it.
 
But how could the ecu go bad in two weeks? It was fine before I swapped the head.
 
Do a member search for members around your area..If they are close enough..They should have no problem driving to your house and swapping in their ecu and seeing if your car will start..Offer to pay for gas or buy them a 6 pack for coming over..
 
The one guy that I know has dsm stuff said no way. So I don't have anyone around here with an ecu. Is there any other ways to check it?
 
Check fuel pressure, that can also keep it from starting. A easy way to test it is to use a pair of vise grips and clamp off the return line, if thats the problem, then it should start. My car wouldn't start and left me clueless, I checked everything except fuel pressure, cause I knew it was getting fuel. As soon as I clamped off that return line, it started right up, and then I just got a new FPR.
 
But how could the ecu go bad in two weeks? It was fine before I swapped the head.

I assume you disconnected the battery to work on the head.
If the capacitors in the ECU were original, then we know that they were bad no matter what they looked like and when you reconnected the battery they failed.

I'm surprised no one yet has provided the basic diagnostic for the ECU. Does the CEL turn on for five seconds when you turn the ignition on? Does the factory boost gauge go to zero when you turn the ignition on and drop while cranking?

If it doesn't the ECU is bad, the MPI fuse is blown, or the MPI relay isn't working.
 
I assume you disconnected the battery to work on the head.
If the capacitors in the ECU were original, then we know that they were bad no matter what they looked like and when you reconnected the battery they failed.

I'm surprised no one yet has provided the basic diagnostic for the ECU. Does the CEL turn on for five seconds when you turn the ignition on? Does the factory boost gauge go to zero when you turn the ignition on and drop while cranking?

If it doesn't the ECU is bad, the MPI fuse is blown, or the MPI relay isn't working.

Wiseman FTW:thumb:
 
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