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Car wont start after sitting over night.

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psi240sx

Probationary Member
13
0
Mar 20, 2004
nj, New Jersey
Hi
My car is a 95awd all stock, it was running fine until one morning when I get ready to go to work and the car doesnt start. I check for spark and I have spark, baterry is good, MPI relay is good, it crank normal and the last thing in my mind is fuel. I have NONE. I bought a jump start fluid bottle from Autozone and spray it into the intake manifold and guess what, it starts, but after it burn off all the fuel that I sprayed in there, it shut off and wouldnt start until I spray some more in there. So I'm guessing the fuel pump is bad because I dont hear anything when I turn the igniton on (without starting it). I open gas cap to listen and tell my bro to the key on, and again no noise. So, is this a 100% fuel pump failure or is there something that I'm missing. I dont want to spend money and time replacing the pump and then find out that it is not pump is bad. Please help me out. Thanks for reading.
 
Ahhh. Good to see someone actually test before posting. You have ruled out spark. You are probably right about the fuel pump, however take a screwdriver and while having someone crank your engine listen at the injectors to see if you hear that sharp metallic clicking noise which would indicate they are doing their job. If they are clicking then most likely it's the fuel pump or relay. Get a schematic and check the wiring. Using a 12 volt test light probe the wires near the pump. You should get a light on for 3 seconds and then it will go off. Have someone crank and it should stay on while cranking. If the light is on you most likely have a bad pump. If it is not coming on and you are sure you are on the 12 volt wire to the pump then you have a relay, wiring issue. Test it out and re post Also, make absolutely sure the test light ground is good. I won't tell you how aggravating a bad test light ground can be as it will screw your diagnostics up. If not sure, take a small 16 gauge wire and hook it to the negative side of the battery with a clip or small vise grips. Run the wire back to the back of the car and hook your test light up to it.

Good Luck
 
Thanks for the post, I really appreciated. Well, its too dark and cold now so I will try testing the voltage tomorow. Another thing I want to add. 2 days before the problems, my interior lights wouldnt go away and the door indicator on the cluster keep staying on. I figured the sensor on the door jam is bad causing the lights stay on so I removed all the interior light except for the door light on the cluster keep staying on. Does that have something to do with the FP relay causing it getting low voltage? I also searched and found out that you can rewire the relay getting voltage directly from the battery. Is there any write up on that? Thanks
 
No, the lights and fuel pump are not connected. Usually when your lights stay on you have a bad/misadjusted switch somewhere. I have fought with this on mine a lot. You can sometimes take your finger and flip the door switch several times to make it contact better. Sometimes you have to remove it and clean it. It merely makes the ground in the light system and can get dirty.

As far as rewiring the relay, you will have to search that one. I am not familiar with it. I will search also for my own knowledge.

Good Luck
 
OK, I did some test today here are the results. I test the voltage on the
fuel pump plug and only 2 wire have voltage, 1 is the yellow/black stripe and the other is yellow/blue stripe, they are both 11volts. I assuming my relay is working properly because I here a click when I crank, and a click when I take the key out. I also try removed the relay and the motor will not crank. So now can I say its the pump that failing?

BTW there is 2 black box under the radio, the big one on the left with a rubber boot cover it and the little one on the right with nothing cover but its bolt down by a 10mm. Which one is the FP relay? I assuming the left one is. Tell me I'm correct. Thanks
 
I will have to look at a schematic as I don't know the answer to that particular question off the top of my head. If you have the 12 volts on the pump input and it's not working I would reason that the pump is bad. Mitsubishi does not have a bad habit of bad pumps but it can happen. Good Luck
 
Got it running again, thanks much for the help Old Mitsu Tech :thumb: , It was the pump that failing. Pop in a Walbro 190 and the car is back in action. Changing the pump fun, I got dizzy smelling the gas. But over all is easy,.
 
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