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Car won't go into gear after rebuild

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Clutch450

10+ Year Contributor
252
1
Jan 15, 2009
Lancaster, Pennsylvania
As the title says, it just won't go into gear with it running.
I've bled and bled and bled the clutch. Doesn't seem to help.
It's a ACT 2900 with sprung 6 disc and act flywheel. Just installed a competition forged clutch fork/ pivot ball and Oem TOB along with a SS line from master to slave cylinder.
Clutch pedal is firm but I do not believe it to be as stiff as it should.
Slave and master are not leaking but they are also not new parts.
I've removed the boot where the fork is and watched as someone pushed the pedal down and it moves the TOB into the pressure plate as it should. I guess it's just not enough.
I've also adjusted the master cylinder rod the whole way out and it is still not enough to allow it to go into gear
I'm stuck at this point and can not for the life of me figure it out
 
Can you push the save cylinder in with your hand? I'm not sure if you have done it this way just throwing it out there. I had the same issue but I adjusted my master cylinder all of the way and still could push it. I replaced it with an OEM one and it solved my problem. Mine was not leaking either.
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vYJxQyjIhUw]Proper Clutch Adjustment - YouTube[/ame]

Also where is your clutch fork positioned in the hole of the transmission? Is it centered or offset?
 
The fork is centered in the hole. I went and did the adjustment right now. It's set just before the point where you can not push the slave rod in anymore.
I'm going to try replacing the slave and see if it helps

The fork is centered in the hole. I went and did the adjustment right now. It's set just before the point where you can not push the slave rod in anymore.
I'm going to try replacing the slave and see if it helps
 
How many miles are on your car? The reason I ask is you know the slave is working and clutch is adjusted correctly now. How are your shifter cables? Do you have any play in your clutch pedal? The 2900 is a stout clutch and takes it's toll on your clutch pedal bushings.
 
Did you compare the old fork to the new one to see if they're the same. Maybe need a longer slave rod to push the clutch out more so it's not still engaged when trying to shift. If you shut the car off and shift does everything inside the tranny still move freely?
 
I compared the two. They were the same.
The trans does go into gear pretty easily with the car turned off. Just not once it's running.
The new slave cylinder will be going on in the next hour. See if it changes anything for me.
 
I put in the new slave cylinder and it is still the same. A new master is going in tomorrow. Aside from that I suppose the trans is going to be coming out again.

I've done a new slave and a new master cylinder but there is still no change. I'm out of options now
 
Maybe try getting an extended slave cylinder rod so that it pushes out on the clutch more. If it shifts fine without running it's definitely not the tranny, but the clutch not fully disengaging.
 
I've looked into getting an extended rod. But that's just a bandaid fix. And the standard rod was enough before I put the new SS line, competition fork and ball in.
 
How far does the slave cyl pushrod move? I was having disengagement issues when it was only moving about 11mm. I got a different salve cyl and it changed the movement to 14mm which is perfect for my car.

And by different I mean one for a 3000gt. It has a smaller bore so the cyl moves further than the stock one for the same pedal movement/hyd fluid displacement from the master.
 
I'm having the same problem. I wonder what's cause it.:confused: It's aggravating when you cant figure it out....:mad:
 
I think I just figure my problem out. I only have one bolt in my slave cylinder... Anyone know what size bolt that is off hand? It looks to be a M8x1.00. I have a M8 tap but only to 1.25 I'm going to keep looking.

UPDATE: yeah it was a M8x1.25 :thumb: But unfortunately it didn't solve my problem... Weird, I only replaced the clutch with a stock replacement...:hmm:

I notice my clutch fork is out of position. It sticks out further from the center more towards the passenger side. If I remember right it's suppose to be in the center or a little more towards the slave cylinder. I will be removing the trans tomorrow morning to add a sim on the pivot ball. I will update you all.:pray:
 
Last edited:
New oem Master and slave cylinder did not make things better. Drained tranny fluid and no silver in it. I'm going to order the extended slave rod, I'm sure I'm going to have to pull the tranny but why not try the rod.

Any updates? I just installed a extended rod on mine and still no luck. I wonder if I overtighten the PP bolts.
I am still having issues with engagement.
 
What is the step height on the flywheel? Another thing that people don't take into account with these is that if the flywheel has been cut than the pressure plate physically sits further away from from the transmission than with an uncut flywheel. This will make the clutch fork not centered even with a new fork and ball.
 
Yes thank you, you should have the step height checked. And while you name then out have them balanced as a unit. Also check the clutch job again, make sure it's facing the correct way,etc.
 
i installed a stainless steel clutch line on my sons 98 gsx for the new owner and i noticed that after the install i had to adjust the rod on the master quite a bit to get the clutch to disingage and he only has a centerforce clutch . i think the ss line expands to much causing this problem . i would put the oem line back on and see what happens .
 
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