Car wont go into gear after clutch install

[lucid15]

Just finished putting everythig back together. IT will go into first car before the car starts, but just trying the other gears feels weird it doesnt fully go in and it feels sloppy. also when i start it in first and barely lift up the pedal to go, it will die.i tried adjusting the rod according to the jacks transmissions video with no luck. Also i can push the clutch fork spot where the slave piston hits to the left and the piston of the slave can almost slide off. Any thoughts on what to do?

Anyone have an answer to this? im stumped, i did the skateboard bearing shifter mod and one of the cables is only on like half way but that shouldnt matter. I cant even get it into any gear now.

but ive had the mod done for awhile before i installed the clutch, the thing just wont go on all the way, before i hammered it on there for an hour until it went this time i opted to just get it on there.

 

[brandon1239]

I'd take it all apart again and double check you did everything correctly. more than likely something isnt sitting right. and what exactly did you "hammer" on

 

[killer_eclipse]

what clutch did you install? this is a common problem with act 2600 and i have heard of it with 2100 pressure plates. There are a couple of fixes washers on the pivot point of the fork or a longer slave cylinder push rod.

 

[2point3Tsi]

I personally had this problem after installing a new Shep trans with an act 2600 + act flywheel. I told my self I'll skimp on the new clutch ball and pivot fork and just pull it again if it didn't work.... which is exactly what I had to do after I replaced the clutch slave and master just to be sure. After dropping the tranny and replacing the pivot ball, shimming it with a 1/4 inch washer AND new for I put it back together and it shifted just like new after a half turn of adjustment.

Think about it like this, the thickness of a clutch disc is larger than and old one so the amount of distance needed to disengage the clutch will be less for and old when then a new one.

With a new disc the distance to travel for disengagement must be increased and if the worn parts don't add up your new clutch won't shift to save your life.

Lesson is: replace that pivot ball and shift fork every 60-100k and save your self from losing 8 hours for a tedious transmission removal

 

[lucid15]

My old clutch was a fidanza 3.2 and it was only on for 6k miles. This is a 4.3 which uses the same pressure plate only the friction surface is ceramic instead of Kevlar. I don't think it has to do with the fork.

I dont know if this is relevant or not, but when i go to push on the clutch fork to push the slave cylinder rod in to set the master cylinder rod according to jacks video, and then go back to the car the clutch pedal sticks to the floor. Ive also bled the hell out of the system with no luck. Whats most likely the culprit?

PS: When i have someone press the clutch in and i try to move the clutch fork further with my hand it wont budge any further, so i think the slave is pushing the fork as far as it can possibly go? Correct me if im wrong?

 

[DSMOregon]

I think it sounds like a bad master cylinder..

 

[lucid15]

Anyway to make sure this is the cause without having to actually replace it? I checked the fork and it sits in the middle of the rubber boot window. Does this mean i should be fine without shimming the pivot ball?