Car wont go into any gears still when car running!

[Talon00b]

now i was reading on this and i read somewhere if the clutch is new that they push started it and it "freed" the clutch and it worked could this be it? i already bled the fluid and my clutch pedal still feels loose like crazy i donno maybe thats how its saposto feel on these cars but every other car iv driving is way harder then this any suggestions
Brad

 

[wret]

I bled mine until there were no more bubbles. Bled it again and got more bubbles. Bled it a third time and got more bubbles. Maybe you gave up too quickly.

 

[Whiplash]

I bled mine yesterday. It took 2.5hrs. You have to pump the clutch fast and hard all the way down. It hurts so bad, but I kept doing it because I needed to...

 

[Old Mitsu Tech]

I learned a trick on brakes that would not get the air out. Compress the slave cylinder all the way in. Open the bleed screw and have someone pump the clutch pedal one push. When it's at the floor, close the screw. Sometimes air gets in and when you push the slave all the way back, you are ensuring there's no air in the slave as since it's all the way back, it pushes any air that may have become trapped into the line which you conveniently bleed out.

Try it and see if that works. Just remember to open the bleed screw before you push the clutch pedal down.

Let us know. It has worked on brakes for me, but I've never tried it on a clutch.

Good Luck

 

[Talon00b]

I bled mine yesterday. It took 2.5hrs. You have to pump the clutch fast and hard all the way down. It hurts so bad, but I kept doing it because I needed to...

fisrt off id like to thank everyone were thats trying to help this car has been a bit of hell for me and you guys are trying your best to help me and I thank you

Ok this is what were doing , im under the car and my dad pushes the clutch peddle down and i undo the top bolt, it sprays out fluid and then i tighten it back and he releases. is this the correct way of doing it? i know on the one page a saw he had a neat little plug in thingy so it doesnt spray everythere but as long as i get this thing going i dont car... also its on a bit of a incline would this matter?

also what kinda fluid should I be useing they told me dot 3 brake fluid so thats what im tossing in.

Brad

 

[Talon00b]

I learned a trick on brakes that would not get the air out. Compress the slave cylinder all the way in. Open the bleed screw and have someone pump the clutch pedal one push. When it's at the floor, close the screw. Sometimes air gets in and when you push the slave all the way back, you are ensuring there's no air in the slave as since it's all the way back, it pushes any air that may have become trapped into the line which you conveniently bleed out.

Try it and see if that works. Just remember to open the bleed screw before you push the clutch pedal down.

Let us know. It has worked on brakes for me, but I've never tried it on a clutch.

Good Luck

whow hold on i just re-read what you said and you said to open the bolt first then push in the pedal? is this the right way of doing it?
Brad

 

[rowlex]

You need to put a vacuum tube on the top of the bolt (to prevent air from getting back in) then you put the end of the vacuum tube in a small can/cup that is previously filled with clean fluid. this will ensure no air bubbles are able to get back into the system.

 

[Old Mitsu Tech]

Sometimes and it's rare, but like I said, I've done it on brakes and some other manufacturers clutches. If nothing else is working, I would try that. You never know where air can hide. Besides, what have you got to lose?

Good Luck

 

[Talon00b]

You need to put a vacuum tube on the top of the bolt (to prevent air from getting back in) then you put the end of the vacuum tube in a small can/cup that is previously filled with clean fluid. this will ensure no air bubbles are able to get back into the system.

Im still confused with this vacum hose? isent there a little nipple like a grease fitting nipple on the top?

or maybe a better question is how do i make and attatch a bleeder hose? becuase iv just been undooing the bolt and you guys are right, theres probably air going back in when i tighten it

Brad

 

[wret]

"Vacuum tube" is a misnomer. You just need any kind of tubing that fits the nipple. Here's a good explanation from old mitsu tech.

http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1736508&highlight=bleed#post1736508

 

[Talon00b]

ok iv made a little paint drawing...

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so this is kinda what it looks like... so you guys are telling me to put the tube over the nipple and loosen the threads a tiny bit on the nipple bolt correct? but i thought the nipple was like a grease fitting nipple where you needed a grease fitting to go over it no?
Brad

 

[Old Mitsu Tech]

It's a bleeder. It bleeds air out of your hydraulic system. That's why it's called a bleeder. I've used several variations of bleeding through the years. Not to confuse you, look at the above posts. Everything you need to know is there.

Good Luck

 

[Talon00b]

ha ha ha im an idiot! ok so i get under the car and i look again and ya you guys are right its just a normal bleeder nipple but i oculda sworn it had a ball at the end like a grease fitting im a tard anyhoo wish me luck im going out there to see if this works
Brad

 

[Talon00b]

well after 3 or more hours still nothing could it be the new clutch is stuck somehow since its been sitting for about a month?
thanks

 

[rowlex]

Maybe your master/slave cylinder is going bad? Is their any leaking from them? The master in my car is going out right now and I have no pedal pressure, unless I "pump" it up about 10-15 times.

Have you tried to pump it up to build some pressure??

 

[Talon00b]

Maybe your master/slave cylinder is going bad? Is their any leaking from them? The master in my car is going out right now and I have no pedal pressure, unless I "pump" it up about 10-15 times.

Have you tried to pump it up to build some pressure??

Well its not leaking anywhere but the presure thing, when I pump it 15 times it still feels like the same presure im so confused

 

[Talon00b]

ohhh crap i forgot!! I replaced my clutch with this one
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8007114936
would i need a new master and slave cylender

Brad

 

[g63tawd]

http://vfaq.com/index-main.html

At the bottom of the page there is a pretty good step by step on the bleeding process and also adjust the clutch all the way in (shorten pedal travel) and bleed it fully, then adjust it back out(lengethen pedal travel). You will have more throw with the pedal then. I had to modify my master cylinder with a longer rod for my 2600lbs clutch. It took some time but well worth it in the end the 2600 feels a lot less resistant than it has on some friends cars with stock master cylinders.

 

[954rr]

you have to adjust you clutch pedel under your dash it is a 12mm nut

 

[jamps420]

this issue is very very similar too my issue my car started out with a very used clutch and p.p. i put them in because i broke my old p.p. in three places doing what started out to be a burnout. then i knew i had less grip or i guess grab from the clutch. can feel and see via the rpm's that the motor was going up way faster than the car was moving. but still it was winning races! i also could not full throttle off the line, because coming into second gear at high rpm's it would (GO) into second gear and just not grab crazy feeling. so i pull up to a stoplight after playing on the interstate with a 3500 turbo diesel dodge ram. now at a stop light my car will not go in gear! lots of grinding. im thinking new master cylinder new slave cylinder fairly bad clutch? and new tob. so i buy competition stage 3 clutch. just finished putting it on last night. same thing will not go in gear. start in runs great push clutch (feels good), yry to put it in reverse feels good no car jumps back agressivly and dies hmmm. it seems the slave rod is pushing the (i guess the clutch fork as far as to make a little squeaking sound. is that far enough.

any help because this sux.

 

[AWDTSIer]

I just went through the same problem, let me ask you this, do you have a full pedal or does it only come up about 5 or 6 inches? I dont want to give you a wrong idea but it could be your TO bearing. Thats what my problem was, it had actually cocked on the shaft and was only disengaging my clutch half ways. It was hell trying to figure out y my clutch wasnt releasing. I tried everything there was to try before i removed my transmission. What TO bearing are you using?

 

[jamps420]

that may just be a BIG oops on my behalf any way when i put the crappy clutch on a few months ago i did replace the tob that dosent mean its not bad but less likely it was an auto zone oem jank . the oops is i got one with this competition stage 3 and didnt put it on. but i have to pull the trans again any way so its going on and i kinda wondering about the clutch fork being bent becauseit looks like the fork is too close to the passenger side.

 

[AWDTSIer]

Ya, when i removed my tranny again to see what the problem was i went ahead and replaced the fulcrum ball, shift fork, and put an oem mitsu TO bearing on! I recommend the oem TO bearing, but with a stage 3 clutch im not too sure. I am running a Fidanza 3.2 kevlar 4 puck clutch, with a fidanza flywheel and the bearing works great. Also i would check to see iof there is any wear on the input shaft, i have seen that alot! Good luck!

 

[jamps420]

well im gonna pull the tranny again but whene i blew the pressure plat (broken in three places)
im thinking it may have bent the clutch fork then

 

[joro702]

yeah alot of the time if you give up to soon and you dont let all the bubbles out. so try it again just go untill it completely stops