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ECMlink Car wont go above 1500 rpm (resolved)

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SnowmanFD

Proven Member
142
8
Dec 11, 2021
North Seattle, Washington
So i recently purchased a 90' ecu with link from rix racing, i was thinking it might be used and have someone elses tune so i wanted to reset it. I followed scott lairds guide for "new installation for new users" and "resetting ecmlink back to stock" i was able to copy everything BUT the fuel tab but after i compared the current and the factory table they were the same (i think) i went to drive like normal and anytime i got to about 1500 rpm the car would jolt forward like i was still learning to drive stick (even with clutch completely out) after reviewing the log it looks like my fuel flow suddenly drops to zero. i cant upload the logs at the moment but i will take some photos
Side note: "device type" under configure was set to 2g dsm connection, changing it did nothing

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Something else i though of what would cause a 90 car to run good with a 94 ecu but bad with a 90 ecu? (94 only has a eprom, no link) im going to try pluging in the old ecu and see if it still runs the same
 
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first one is my first ever start with link and the second is when i saw the fuel issue on the side of the road LOL
gavingsx: that's part of the reason i bought this ecu is because its a 90' i thought because the tach didn't work sometimes the pins weren't swapped
tk's9d2TSi: i also had a dtc for throttle circuit or something like that but it disappeared after turning the car off
 

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If the ecu thinks idle switch is closed all the time, suggested by the last post, the car will never exceed 1500 rpm. Ecu cuts fuel at 1500 rpm when idle position switch is closed. It's the same thing that causes idle surge.
 
Correct me if im wrong but it looks like they are not swapped.
Also i plugged the 94 ecu in and the car runs "fine"

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I did some rough tracing of all the wires and found this, i havent followed the specific wires yet but i have a feeling this is them

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Is there a correct way to swap them thats not cuting it?
Took 10 sec for me to find this.
Search a question on Google
Add a period then add the word dsmtuners. Usually gets good results to this site etc.

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Is there a correct way to swap them thats not cuting it?

Based on your pictures it looks like the PO put connectors that just pull apart so you can unplug them and swap. That's what those blue crimps look like to me.

Normally I do what Paul showed. It takes me about 30 seconds to do it but I know what I'm doing and have Jewelers screwdrivers to release the pins.
 
Based on your pictures it looks like the PO put connectors that just pull apart so you can unplug them and swap. That's what those blue crimps look like to me.

Normally I do what Paul showed. It takes me about 30 seconds to do it but I know what I'm doing and have Jewelers screwdrivers to release the pins.
You would be correct i just unpluged them and swapped them, car runs with the new ecu, AND the tach finally works!!!
Thanks so much everyone for all the help :)
 
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