DROOPY209
15+ Year Contributor
- 493
- 4
- Jun 23, 2004
-
NorCal,
California
Ok guys, this problem started about 3 months. At first, I had a lot of boost leaks. I found a huge one at the 14b outlet pipe. I fixed it then I found out that the lower injector seals were toast(Thanks soapy water test!!!) Timing is set at 5*.
At idle, my boost gauge is now at 20hg vacuum, where before I started fixing the boost leaks it would idle at 15-16hg of vacuum. I no longer have boost leaks. No exhaust leaks. I used the ultra coppper sealant and sealed up all the exhaust leaks that I found when I seafoamed it. The idle is dead solid now. No misfiring, idle surge or anything. exhaust has a nice deep note, thanks to my Thermal R&D 3" exhaust. Greddy EGT gauge says 550* Celcius at idle.
No matter what I do while driving, in boost or out of boost, the car will now backfire at 4500 RPM everytime without a doubt. It used to buck and backfire at 5187 RPM, everytime. Plugs are new, gapped at .028, plug wires are new. I can rev it up to redline while in neutral, but once the car is moving, 4500rpms is the max before it starts backfiring and bucking.
On my logger after this happened, I saw 255 counts of knock, and the O2 sensor voltage went up to 4.98v. Yes that is correct, the o2 went up to 4.98v.
Another issue, when I have the key in, ignition ON, but car off, the ISC makes a very weird noise the whole time. It will stop when I turn the key OFF, or unplug the harness connector.
Im running the GM MAF-Translator setup in blowthru. Fuel trim low is at 118% Fuel trim Mid is at 111%, and Fuel Trim high is at 101%. I can turn the Mid and WOT knob on the translator all the way rich +35% and the MID and High fuel trims wont change. No matter what, the car NEVER gets above 1599 Hz. It stops right there and the bucking and backfiring starts.
I relocated my battery to the trunk. My logger says voltage is at 14.2 volts.
What should I do to fix this. I have an EPROM Ecu that I'm thinking about trying out. I was also thinking about putting on the stock MAF
At idle, my boost gauge is now at 20hg vacuum, where before I started fixing the boost leaks it would idle at 15-16hg of vacuum. I no longer have boost leaks. No exhaust leaks. I used the ultra coppper sealant and sealed up all the exhaust leaks that I found when I seafoamed it. The idle is dead solid now. No misfiring, idle surge or anything. exhaust has a nice deep note, thanks to my Thermal R&D 3" exhaust. Greddy EGT gauge says 550* Celcius at idle.
No matter what I do while driving, in boost or out of boost, the car will now backfire at 4500 RPM everytime without a doubt. It used to buck and backfire at 5187 RPM, everytime. Plugs are new, gapped at .028, plug wires are new. I can rev it up to redline while in neutral, but once the car is moving, 4500rpms is the max before it starts backfiring and bucking.
On my logger after this happened, I saw 255 counts of knock, and the O2 sensor voltage went up to 4.98v. Yes that is correct, the o2 went up to 4.98v.
Another issue, when I have the key in, ignition ON, but car off, the ISC makes a very weird noise the whole time. It will stop when I turn the key OFF, or unplug the harness connector.
Im running the GM MAF-Translator setup in blowthru. Fuel trim low is at 118% Fuel trim Mid is at 111%, and Fuel Trim high is at 101%. I can turn the Mid and WOT knob on the translator all the way rich +35% and the MID and High fuel trims wont change. No matter what, the car NEVER gets above 1599 Hz. It stops right there and the bucking and backfiring starts.
I relocated my battery to the trunk. My logger says voltage is at 14.2 volts.
What should I do to fix this. I have an EPROM Ecu that I'm thinking about trying out. I was also thinking about putting on the stock MAF