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2G Car shut down and now it runs bad

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ttravis88t

Proven Member
107
13
Jul 25, 2021
Jacksonville, Florida
So, the other day I was driving home from work and as I was hitting some pretty high boost the car simply shut off on me. When trying to turn it back on it would die after about 3 seconds of running. So my first thoughts were "oh shit I broke another mass airflow sensor" so I unplugged the MAF and it was enough to keep the car alive and I was able to limp it home. But yesterday, I swapped in a working MAF and the same thing was happening.

Though not as bad, the car ran poorly with it plugged in for about 2 minutes before it simply couldnt accelerate anymore and begun to shut off. ECMLink isnt showing any DTCs and the CEL isnt on. Ive posted a log with the run I just described. Up until about 200 seconds I had the MAF plugged in and it run as i described. After that, is with it unpluged so that i would actually be able to drive it home.

Any ideas? Also this may be related, but I was getting a code a few days ago about "excessive time to enter closed loop fuel control" and I know a bad thermostat or a bad o2 sensor can cause this, so I already replaced the thermostat but the code still popped up, so my thoughts were maybe that the o2 sensor is bad causing both of these problems? Even though its not throwing a code?
 

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Can you wire in the wideband, log what I mentioned previously and post a log?
so I just did what we went over, I unchecked the two boxes for locked O2 Voltage and locked open loop but I can really run a log driving because my current issue doesn’t even let the car run for more than 3 seconds. Is there a way within ECM link to check individual sensors or something to see what might be wrong? It’s definitely something sensor related if I had to guess because I’ve already determined it’s not a boost leak. Maybe a fuel injector failed? I’m not sure
 
I’m not home. Can you post a log with the key on for about 20 seconds and starting the car?
alright here we go did it with key on for 20 seconds then turned it on and let it idle until it died. This is with the o2 voltage and stuff still locked because I dont want any data skewed. Ill change all that stuff and begin a retune once this issue is pinpointed
 

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I'd pick up a new coolant temp sensor for ecu. They're cheap and you don't have to install it. Just plug in the new sensor to open air and try starting it.
My coolant sensor works fine though, when it ran it would show normal readings why do you think it’s bad?
 
It’s a sensor so who knows. If it’s original, it’s 20+ years. All the settings in your direct access are so off that IDK what the tuner was doing tbh. The dotted lines are stock values. You really need to go over the car and retune it.

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It’s a sensor so who knows. If it’s original, it’s 20+ years
It’s not, I replaced it less than a year ago when I bought the car. I really do need to go fill out my car profile LOL so I’ll go do that when I’m on my laptop and not my phone.

It’s a sensor so who knows. If it’s original, it’s 20+ years. All the settings in your direct access are so off that IDK what the tuner was doing tbh. The dotted lines are stock values. You really need to go over the car and retune it.

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The car is heavily modified to clarify so maybe that has something to do with it. But it still looks absolutely crazy LOL. It’s hard finding people in my area who tune I’ve tried.
 
I replaced my coolant temp sensor (generic replacement) just to have a new one. It would jump about 10* so I just threw the old one back in.

The car is heavily modified to clarify so maybe that has something to do with it. But it still looks absolutely crazy LOL. It’s hard finding people in my area who tune I’ve tried.
Oh I didn't know that. Those are small injectors so I would have never guessed. Even for a heavily mod'd car, tune is terrible LOL
 
Unfortunately yes

But even with how unoptimized it is, it still ran how it is currently set, so until I can figure out what’s throwing it off I can’t tune it
 
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I replaced my coolant temp sensor (generic replacement) just to have a new one. It would jump about 10* so I just threw the old one back in.


Oh I didn't know that. Those are small injectors so I would have never guessed. Even for a heavily mod'd car, tune is terrible LOL
A
I replaced my coolant temp sensor (generic replacement) just to have a new one. It would jump about 10* so I just threw the old one back in.


Oh I didn't know that. Those are small injectors so I would have never guessed. Even for a heavily mod'd car, tune is terrible LOL
well, I fixed the issue, quiet embarrassing to say the least, the intercooler piping just popped right the f*** off and since I only boost leak tested the from the bov up, I didn’t even realize. I guess that goes to show never overlook the obvious, and @pauleyman you were right, it was a boost leak.
 
A



well, I fixed the issue, quiet embarrassing to say the least, the intercooler piping just popped right the f*** off and since I only boost leak tested the from the bov up, I didn’t even realize. I guess that goes to show never overlook the obvious, and @pauleyman you were right, it was a boost leak.

A

well, I fixed the issue, quiet embarrassing to say the least, the intercooler piping just popped right the f*** off and since I only boost leak tested the from the bov up, I didn’t even realize. I guess that goes to show never overlook the obvious, and @pauleyman you were right, it was a boost leak.
Seen it many times.
 
@TK's9d2TSi so, now that ive got that issue figured out, Ive ran a hot idle log with a rev or two up to like 5k rpm. does anything here arise concern? What should i look at adjusting?
 

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You should start another thread.

Did you wire in the wideband?

YOU MUST VERIFY ALL IN THE LINK BELOW (except 14 which is no longer available). In your new post, start it by answering all question in link below.

Log and display the following
ISC position
CombinedFT
Wideband
WidebandFactor
Battery

He has one or two more videos so go to his channel and watch them.

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