Car shakes in fifth gear

[Goatxxmastr]

Alright, so only when i am in fifth gear and accelerating, the car starts to shake... It feels like the whole thing . I have barely got the car over 3k rpms in fifth because im afraid of the shake, but all other gears or completely fine. Any idea what this might be? It stops shaking as soon as i let off the gas. Its hard to try and push the clutch in at those speeds for me but it seemed to stop then as well. I could use some help here as it makes a nice car hard to drive on the freeway. Is it possible that this is a cv axle issue even when its only in this gear?

 

[Goatxxmastr]

It clunks over bumps... Bad... Almost feels like there isnt any suspension

 

[Goatxxmastr]

Hey guys its been kinda a long week and i havent had a chance to check my axles yet, however i did think of something that i thought i should ask about this shaking. There is a strong possibility that the wheel bearing is going out on the rear driver side. It makes a nice squealing noise? Hard to explain, but basically it sounds like its going bad. Could this also cause the problems i am having with the car shaking at around 65-70 mph? Thanks every one! I do know how to do a basic check of the bearing (jack the car up and see if the tire has play at all) but if anyone has any advice, im all ears. I love learning about my ride.

 

[92AWDTalonTSI]

I would just save up and replace your brakes, disks and bearings for good measure. Then while doing that, check all the joints and axles for play.

You should lock the steering wheel, jack the car up and try to move the wheels. And I mean right and left, up and down. Any conceivable angle. If it moves, you have a bad joint/bushing/bearing somewhere.

Do the same with the axle. It should move laterally between the hub and transmission. The center section that it is. But very very little by hand. It's designed to float between the cups on both ends. But should not move up and down.

Replace anything that is bad. Grease any joint that can be greased. Pump enough grease in it to fill the joint and push out any nasty grease in the process.

Then, get an alignment.

 

[donniekak]

It's a 2g people, on top of any other problem his ball joints are bad, and the front wheel(s) is ready to fall off.

 

[1995silvergst]

Call your local Mitsu dealer give them your VIN and see if the recall work has been done on it asap if not schedule to have them repace the lower ball joints for free. The steering (kicking) back at you indicates your toe is out on your alignment really bad. Some shops will do a free alignment check for you, while they do that I would have them rotate the tires for you as it is easier on a lift. If the car is really high milage I would agree with the suspention bushings/bearing hubs. I would start with the recall and alignment/balance check first as these are the least costly FYI.

 

[1995silvergst]

Toe being out would also add to the front shaking at certain speeds FYI

 

[1995silvergst]

Here is a link with the recall info on it if you should need for the dealer ship. You give them your vin and see if the work has been done, it is a lifetime recall meaning if not they must replace them if they are bad.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/handling-tech/375140-help-lower-control-arm-ball-joint-recall.html

 

[Goatxxmastr]

K, my third time trying to type this. My phone keeps screwing up and losing it all. Dealer said recall was done in 02 but checked them for me to make sure. They showed me and they were rip and tear free and actually had very little dirt on them for being ten years old. They did say the shake could be from my rear wheel being bad but i only asked after the car was off the lift, so hopefully i can get to my dads house and use his jack by the end of the week and check the bearing out myself. Just to make sure, a bad rear wheel bearing could be causing the shake yeah?

 

[luv2rallye]

Any bad wheel bearing (along with a dozen other things in suspension or wheel) can cause shake. Even way excessive toe out on front or rear can sometimes cause it.

 

[Goatxxmastr]

Alright, well im heading to a buddies house tomorrow so ill use his jack and see if i can get the wheel to shake at all by hand. I need to replace both sides at the same time yes? Im not worried as the whole bearing assembly brand new is only like 35 per side

 

[luv2rallye]

Also crawl under and watch the lower (and upper) arms ball joints to check for side to side and up/down movement while a helper moves the wheel hard up/down and left/right - there should be none. Then you try to move the arms as hard as you can from underneath to check for movement - a pry bar helps. You really have to push/pull or pry hard as you are fighting a lot of weight/force there (just think of how much force there is there when the car is on the ground).

The wheel bearing will be easy to tell if bad as the wheel will move up/down or left/right due only to the bearing when it shouldn't. Sometimes you hearing grinding noise also - if so definately replace. $35 per side? Are you sure you're not thinking of a 1g? On a 2g you have to replace the entire hub which is usually around $100 per side!

 

[Goatxxmastr]

No im pretty sure its 2g. I juat did a quick google search and it came up with this


Also i would like to thank every one for all the help you provide. Even if it may not solve the problem, it helps eliminate one more option of what it could be. Oh... And now im a proven member here... Woo... No idea what that even means, just saw that it was changed.

 

[1995silvergst]

It means you made it past 30 posts congrats I would be careful with eBay hubs there is no warranty that I see. Parts stores usually have a warrant on their product just my opinion.

 

[Doubleot]

I bought my hub on autopartswarehouse.com awesome service, fast shipping and the price was the lowest for the beck arnley brand which ive used before. they also offer warranty just like part stores do.

 

[luv2rallye]

I juat did a quick google search and it came up with this

Be leary of eBay with off brands like this one (and of course no warranty). They rarely last long. You get what you pay for - you've be warned!

 

[Goatxxmastr]

Lol well it will be better than what i have! And if it only lasts a year, then i will just have to replace it again. Its not too difficult. I plan on getting a little bit more expensive one... That was just one that popped up on an ebay search.

Edit: just found that same hub i posted and it has a lifetime warranty on any issues or failures i have with it

 

[Goatxxmastr]

Well, like normal washington weather, it decided it was going to rain last night so i couldnt check my wheel bearing. Going to have to try for monday. I really hope its just that wheel hub, would make my life much nicer to be able to go the speed limit up in the 70 zone without feeling like the car is gonna shake apart. I really appreciate every ones help and your patience while i try to find time to check things (bad part of living in an apartment)

 

[Goatxxmastr]

Ok, i brought my car in to have my exhaust installed and they let me tinker under my car a bit while it was on the lift. They double checked for me but all the cv axles and ball joints are all good. No play in them and all the boots are still solid. Unfortunately i still couldnt check the rear bearing as it was only on a lift, not jacked up. Any one have a link on how to remove the current bearing hub? Thanks again.

 

[luv2rallye]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...lace-rear-awd-hub-assembly-wheel-bearing.html

 

[Goatxxmastr]

Awesome. luv2rallye, you have been a huge help through all this.