Car Overheated / Overheating / Overheats [MERGED]

[NTRCOOL]

OVERHEATING? The issues and their solutions have remained the same- either you don't have enough cool air reaching the rad, there's a cooling system obstruction which is preventing coolant from circulating, or your head gasket has failed and is allowing coolant to be consumed or pushed away from the engine.

Discuss all possible overheating problems and solutions here.


OK,
I just left my house to go over to my GF's,and happen to look down and see my needle right before the red mark. This just happened out of nowhere. I stop the car as quickly as i can, and pour in some coolant(Coolant a little low). Still same thing. Welp im in the middle of the road, and HAD to get it home. Im only 5 min from my house. I decided to try and make it(I really had no other choice). Welp I drive no faster than 20mph, and the temp needle is BARELY into the red the whole way.And occasionaly to the left of it. Am I ok?? Do ya think any damage was done?? And im thinking either thermostat, or water pump. For each of those, whats a round about $$ figure to get replaced?? Any info you have would be GREATLY appreciated!

 

[crazy_quick]

just compression tested it and there is 0 comp on all 4 cylinders.

And water wouldnt be in the oil if the water all leaked out when the car was running and the temp guage was reading off of the temp of the metal and not the water..

 

[Alphahookups]

Well long story short, I drove for about 10 miles with no water in the engine. A water line leading to the oil cooler broke and spilled out water so quickly the temp gauge didnt register, and I didnt notice until it was too late and smoke was coming out from under the hood. I am going to pull the head soon and I'm wondering what to look for and what to expect. The head got pretty damn hot(hot enough to make the timing belt cover mallable). I towed the car home and although she still starts, compression is about 90 across the board. Does this indicate anything? I will check for scoring and check the flatness of the block, and I am almost 100% certain the head is warped, but is there anything else to look for? Also, is there anything else that can happen to a head when it gets this hot?

Thanks so much,

Alpha

 

[Mitsu RacerX]

check the cylinder walls for hair line cracks. I can almost guarantee that the head is warped beyond recognition.

 

[Alphahookups]

Thanks for the reply. Are the compression numbers indicative of a badly warped head, or could it be the block too? Also, will I be able to see hairline fractures in the block?

 

[Mitsu RacerX]

If they are to bad you'll be able to rub ## finger over them and feel them. I would start with doing the head (can be resurfaced but if ya got it that hot it might not be reuseable) adn changing the HG. I'm leaning toward the deck being in good condition(4G are the mean blocks). You can find a 4G head for around 200 to 250 refurbished. If ya can find one one a junk yard that does not have the valves bent grab it adn get it checked to see if its true(flat)..Hope everything works out. Just keep us informed

 

[THE REAL DEAL]

check the cylinder walls for hair line cracks. I can almost guarantee that the head is warped beyond recognition.

that's what happened to me. i drove a little more than 10 miles while the stock gauge was in the red. i would have just stopped but i had expired tags. stupid me.

anyways, my head was warped so bad that it couldn't be repaired. i didn't even bother geting the block checked because there was a good chance that it was just as bad.

 

[Alphahookups]

Hmm, Im crossing my fingers that the block is still good. I guess I will only find out once its pulled.

 

[awdtalontsi1992]

You head is probably shot, but get it checked you might have gotten lucky. One thing that is very important is to make sure you flush out the oil system. That cooked oil is not good for your bearings or your turbo.

 

[Glliw]

So, I just started having a real bad overheating issue after putting the new 50 trim in. I had to go slimline fan on the passengers side. The drivers side is the stock fan. It wants to overheat after about 2 miles. The upper radiator hose is easy to squeeze and my radiator felt cold. what is broken? thermostat or pump or...?

 

[olmytsi]

If the radiator hose doesn't get hot, than your thermostat isn't opening. As far as the fan goes, make sure it is pulling air in rather than trying to push it out towards the front of the car.

 

[chicagoavenger]

Well my car went down for a turbo upgrade and some other minor work and it was overheating due to a headgasket. So I threw on a mits mls gasket and we got everything squared away. To make a long story short I am still overheating. I replaced the water pump, thermostat, cap, hoses and burped the system. I also put in new sensors a used working radiator and have the fan working. Timing is dead on and verified by 2 others to insure no issues. I had the head milled and the blocked cleaned. At idle she warms up but after a few mins my logger will start seeing 210+ and rising. I even ran it without the thermostat hoping it would never reach opertaing temp but it does and some more. I followed this guide also and nothing http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=200575. The only thing I have not done is check the torque on the ARP again but I figured we did 90ftlbs so she should be gtg but I will check that. I also did a leakdown test and we applied 100psi across each cylinder and the coolant did not move up or down and no bubbles came out. What the hell could it be guys? Btw Yes I have a fmic but it should not overheat sitting there with a fan on and no thermostat. The only way I can make it cool down is throw a garden hose across the radiator.

 

[ndsti]

Are you sure you used a good radiator? You could have a block in the radiator core. Add some waterwetter and go from their. What mixture do you have in the coolant?

 

[got_Dsm_NY]

wassup...my car has been overheating on me for a while...its getting to the point where i am wanting to just blow the motor... the situation is i drive the car around normal shifting at 3.5k and less and if i get a couple pulls here and there the car runs normal...but then once i come to a stop the temp gauge goes up...so today i stood at a light with the car reved up to about 2k and the heat needle went back down...what can this be?!? water pump? radiator? radiator hoses? thermostat housing? or wtf? let me know what you think thanks in advance

ps: i am running the car without the thermostat

 

[chicagoavenger]

It's all water right now with no thermostat and the radiator is good. I have tried 2 different ones. but like I said if I add some water all across the radiator via a garden hose for 4-5 secs she drops quick to 165F degrees and then starts to climb up


Edit: When I am burping the system after a few minutes I say around 10 or so with the car running with pure water and no thermostat she will start spewing out like Niagra Falls so is that supposed to happen? I didn't think it would do that untill full operating temps and beyond

 

[chicagoavenger]

try a search next time there are a million over heating threads and you haven't even tried to see what may be the issue first. try this let me know if it helps http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=200575

 

[Racer_X]

ps: i am running the car without the thermostat

Maybe that is your problem?

 

[freebmx444]

my car is acting up in a why I have never seen. if I drive normal down the road the car is fine, once I get on the gas even the slightest bit the temp gauge goes up to the top of the gauge. I did 3 coolant flushes an 4 thermostats. if it is any help the coolant that comes out has a brownish green color.

 

[freshlane]

sounds like oil in your coolant. Any smoke? Sounds like the head gasket. Also check the thermostat temp switch in your radiator, althought it wouldnt explain the SUDDEN temp spike.

 

[slammeddsm98]

If it isn't a cracked or blown head gasket i'd be surprised. I picked up 96 gs for a couple hundred bucks, for a parts car, and barely made it home. It did the same thing you are talking about and the coolant was a brownish green color. When i took the engine apart the headgasket had a nice crack in it. Hope that helps.

 

[freebmx444]

thank you i wasnt sure if it was the headgasket or the water pump and come to think of it it does smoke, but looking at the engine i notice that the front left looks like there is about a 1 inch gap from the head to block.

 

[playitlouddsm]

Do a compression test first. If in fact you can see a 1 inch gap between the block and head you have some major problems. This doesn't sound possible though, you would have coolant and oil spraying all over the engine bay.

 

[freebmx444]

there is some oil but it does not spray out. i also want to share some advice to fellow dsm owners, never boost up to 40psi look what happens.( my car)

 

[lenny 15]

well, sounds like the head studs, could be the HG also though, i would change them both, and hope its not to bad...

 

[freebmx444]

should i drive it 15miles to jnz tuning or tow it?

 

[robs90tsi]

if you see a 1 inch gap your in trouble, trust me thats not possible, your car wouldnt be moving, and you would know you had a 1 inch gap there. Hows the oil look, does it look soupy and have a light brown color? And tow it, you risk ruining your whole motor.