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Car Overheated / Overheating / Overheats [MERGED]

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NTRCOOL

Probationary Member
24
0
Apr 10, 2002
OVERHEATING? The issues and their solutions have remained the same- either you don't have enough cool air reaching the rad, there's a cooling system obstruction which is preventing coolant from circulating, or your head gasket has failed and is allowing coolant to be consumed or pushed away from the engine.

Discuss all possible overheating problems and solutions here.



OK,
I just left my house to go over to my GF's,and happen to look down and see my needle right before the red mark. This just happened out of nowhere. I stop the car as quickly as i can, and pour in some coolant(Coolant a little low). Still same thing. Welp im in the middle of the road, and HAD to get it home. Im only 5 min from my house. I decided to try and make it(I really had no other choice). Welp I drive no faster than 20mph, and the temp needle is BARELY into the red the whole way.And occasionaly to the left of it. Am I ok?? Do ya think any damage was done?? And im thinking either thermostat, or water pump. For each of those, whats a round about $$ figure to get replaced?? Any info you have would be GREATLY appreciated!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
awdtalontsi1992 said:
As far as the pulley I have taken the belt of and looked/pulled on the pulley. Beyond that how exactly would I tell if it was bad? Will it just spin/pull off or is it not that obvious?WTF

Use some chalk to make one mark on the pulley and one on the hub, then check in a couple days to see if they're still lined up. My crank pulley looked okay, too, until Defiant recommended that I try the chalk technique.....Sure enough, after two or three days, the chalk marks weren't lining up, signifying that the pulley was up to no good...
 
ddavisaf said:
AKA, check for crank pully seperation from the harmonic dampener or misaligned pullies ;)

+1 :thumb:

If you've done all that you mentioned, then there's a high probability that it's the crank pully.

-Kevin-
 
I have a 1993 eagle talon dl 1.8l and it won't stop overheating on me. Tried all the obvious reasons like flushing the radiator, new thermostat, loading it up with antifreeze. The thing it is only overheats really bad when the temperature outside is above 70 degrees. Any ideas?
 
well I know for a fact my headgasket is screwed because it leaks a quart of oil every two days. the thing is though it doesn't overheat unless it's above 70 degrees outside. Does that not mean it has to be something else? is there not like a temperature sensor or something that could be causing it?
 
I know your looking for the inevitable but definetely sounds like a blown headgasket. Believe me i went through the same thing. Funny thing is now that i think about it back in the day when i was having over heating problems i just added more fans! man, talk about your typical ricer! ROFL
 
The car overheated on me three times yesterday.

OK so heres what I know. I do NOT think I have a leak. So I changed the thermostats to the cooler one from a 195 to a 180, filled it up to the brim with water and put more water in the overflow bottle. The upper radiator hose has TONS of pressure, feels like its going to explode. The car ran fine without boost and normal driving. Drove to duvall and came back, on the way up the hill I had my foot in it some, spooling 5-10 psi to see what the temperature does. Of course it lives up to its name and I watch that needle start to creep up close to pegged. Drove it homewithout it pegging at all, and released the highly pressurized radiator hose, and took the cap off of the overflow bottle to stop the water from bubbling in the bottle and to let the steam out. Just for shits and grins I pulled the intake off and there was a white milky fluid in there, a little but enough to notice. The car was smoking pretty good when we left, but it was also freezing outside and cold, didnt pay attention when we came back. So now the car is sitting as of now. My idea would be that my 13lb radiator cap isnt working, or not letting the pressure out and its causing the water in the turbo to go out the exhaust and then create an air pocket in the motor causing the water to boil and the temp to rise, and the steam is pumping out the overflow bottle. That is my idea, I was just going to ask what lb radiator cap I should get tomarrow, and if the radiator hose is supposed to be damn near rock hard.

Or maybe I have somthing else all fuggered up.
any ideas?

thanks!
-Zak
 
Put your ear near the belts with the car running, if you hear any grinding (some discribe it as a howling sound), the water pump needs to be replaced. Also make sure the belts are servicable and are tight.

Another thing to note is you can not use plane water when its freezing out. The stock water pump and the stock radiator cap work just fine. Just make sure the cap is not worn.
 
Verify that your water pump is working by taking the radiator cap off (when cold) then start up the car. You should see coolant flowing through the upper radiator hose. Use 50/50 mix of coolant/distilled water or buy the pre-ixed stuff.

If that works, start out cheap by replacing the radiator cap with another .9 bar (13psi) unit. Then test your compression to make sure there isn't any obvious head gasket leaks. You can also take your car to a shop and have your coolant tested for hydrocarbons (exhaust) which would also tell you if the gasket is blown out. If you think you may have a leak, I believe Sears sells a coolant pressure tester that pressurizes your cooling system much like a boost leak tester.

I had similar symptoms when my stock gasket blew.

Report back.
 
Headgasket.

Will post pics tonight if interested.

I got a head gasket from the autoparts store in town by felpro.

Just hoping my head isn't warped.

Head gasket was blown on cylinders 1 and 2 directly into the water jacket, causing my coolant system to pressurize.

I sure the hell hope my head is alright.:toobad:
 
Are you sure the headgasket was the cause of your overheating and not the effect?

Don't forget to change your waterpump and timing belt at the same time. Never hurts.
 
Hi everyone... I have a 1g talon tsi. I just had the whole engine rebuilt from the block up..

When I first started driving the first 500 miles, there was no problems at all.

Last week, the car started getting hot while I was on the highway, and then I pulled over and saw that my top radiator hose was spewing out steam and radiator fluid.

I changed the top radiator hose with a new thermostat and new radiator cap.

I drove the car yesterday, and here's the thing.

On highway, the temp goes a little past 1/2 mark but then goes back to normal. it's fine for highway, but once i hit local roads, it starts just getting hotter and hotter. I was able to make it home, and when I was home, I popped the hood and saw the overflowtank full and bubbling. I saw radiator fluid around the engine bay...

I checked for leaks but didn't find anything, so i just figure it's comming out of the overflow tank, but the cap is still on!...

Now I did a few searches, and came up with a couple of reasons.
1 - HG, which I doubt because engine is new and new white smoke or any "bad" smoke out the tailpipe.

2- head cracked.. I jsut really hope not..

3 - Water pump. Maybe I got a faulty water pump.

This is what I think and I need a few suggestions please.

I'm hoping it's the water pump and here's my reasoning.... when at highway, there's plenty of air hitting the engine so the fluid stays a little cooler, but at local roads when there's no wind, and the water pump isn't pushing the water thru the radiator, it just gets hot?

The fan is spinning, so I dont think it's the fan.

Any suggestions or comments would be greatly appreciated...

Thanks!
 
Sounds like a water pump to me. You say the fans are coming on and your not loosing water? If thats the case change it out make sure the gasket is on good. Good luck.
 
THe fans are comming on, but the water is still comming out.. Im thinking because the waterpump isn't turning so the fluid doesn't go thru the radiator, thus boiling and pushing to the overflow tank.

I'm looking at illustrations on changing water pump. It looks like I can just change the water pump without touching the timing belt (belt is new). Is that true?

Thanks.
 
Yes thats true, You don't have to mess with the timing belt , although you do have to take your alternatot belt off and the water pump pulley off and a few other things I can't quite remember, its fairly easy though.
 
hmm.. i was just reading thru a few posts.. and everyone is stating that you'll have to take off the timing belt, because the timing belt tensioner is covering 1 bolt for the water pump.

But the posts I read were for 2g engines.. but 1g and 2g water pump replacement is the same right?
 
There is a bolt on the water pump that is behind the tensioner pulley of the timing belt. Its not just for 2gs, the belt has to come off.

Before you go ripping that off, when the car is cold start it up with the radiator cap off. If the pump is working you will see coolant flowing through the upper radiator hose. If the pump is faulty, you will not see anything move. That will save you from ripping everything apart if it is not necessary.

Just because the headgasket is new does not mean it sealed up properly. I went through the exact same thing with my new motor and stock composite gasket. I never saw smoke, no mixing fluids, perfect compression but I did test the coolant for hydrocarbons and it was positive.

Bring your car to a shop and have your coolant tested. If its positive, you are looking at a headgasket replacement. If it is negative, then you have a leak somewhere. A leak will cause your cooling system to lose pressure and lower the boiling point of your coolant/water.
 
Looks like it could be my HG... I just started the car with the radiator cap off..and the fluid was comming out slowly, so that proves the water pump is working then..
now i get white smoke ou the back.. so I have nothing else to blame by the HG now... =(...
how much is a HG job on our cars usually?
 
Well, confirm it's your headgasket. Do a compression test and post back with the numbers. If you can't get a compression test done, do the simple things first. Look for coolant mixture in the oil or on the dipstick.
 
I have a 96 talon with a 6bolt swap the car was overheating because of a hose so i changed the hoes and still have the issue. I have pulled the thermostat and it didnt help so i changed the radiator and the problem is not as bad as it was. I did a compression test got even #'s across the board. I think there is air in the line but i cant bleed it because i it is just flowing should i put a new stat in it the bleed it and see if that helps?
 
Overheating going down the road or overheating when sitting still with the engine running? If it's sitting still and getting hot, then it can the Coolant sensor, fans, or relay or such.

Let us know when it does it. It makes a difference.
 
I am having the same issue. I believe my coolant has a bubble or something... the heater gets hot and then cold and then hot again... MegaSquirt is saying the temp is at 257 as well... I am not sure why as the coolant in the overflow doesn't boil and the car runs fine and does not feel hot at all... strange. It trys to cool itself off but it takes too long.
 
It was fine when i was driving fot the 1st 15 min then it started to go up and down and is pushing coolant to the over flow very slowly and when i shut the car off it sucks it back in. Should i put a new stat in the bleed the system or what else can i do. people say it might be the headgasket but it doesnt smoke or mix i need some advice
 
dfgu said:
so I have nothing else to blame by the HG now... =(...
how much is a HG job on our cars usually?

Just to make sure, bring your car to a garage that can do a hydrocarbon test on your coolant. Its cheap-free and will make sure you aren't wasting money.

If it ends up being the gasket, I'd say most shops would charge around the neigherborhood of $1,000. If you can do a timing belt job yourself, you could do the job for way cheaper yourself.

Let us know your experience and we'll give you the best suggestion for action.
 
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