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Car Overheated / Overheating / Overheats [MERGED]

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NTRCOOL

Probationary Member
24
0
Apr 10, 2002
OVERHEATING? The issues and their solutions have remained the same- either you don't have enough cool air reaching the rad, there's a cooling system obstruction which is preventing coolant from circulating, or your head gasket has failed and is allowing coolant to be consumed or pushed away from the engine.

Discuss all possible overheating problems and solutions here.



OK,
I just left my house to go over to my GF's,and happen to look down and see my needle right before the red mark. This just happened out of nowhere. I stop the car as quickly as i can, and pour in some coolant(Coolant a little low). Still same thing. Welp im in the middle of the road, and HAD to get it home. Im only 5 min from my house. I decided to try and make it(I really had no other choice). Welp I drive no faster than 20mph, and the temp needle is BARELY into the red the whole way.And occasionaly to the left of it. Am I ok?? Do ya think any damage was done?? And im thinking either thermostat, or water pump. For each of those, whats a round about $$ figure to get replaced?? Any info you have would be GREATLY appreciated!
 
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my car was havin a overheating problem so i put more water in it...drove fine but now my car bucks or hesitates after 2500RPM...do you guys know whats goin on?
 
It's hard to tell from that vauge of a description, but I'm guessing that it doesn't have anything to do with the overheating... unless you warped your head (very unlikely). It sounds like you just have a really bad boost leak or one of your intercooler pipes isn't connected. Check out vfaq.com on how to do an intake boost leak check and see if that fixes your problem. Another thing to check would be your sparkplugs. A new set of NGK BPR6ES plugs costs about 6 dollars locally, and is often the solution to many DSM problems.
 
93ClipseVA said:
my car was havin a overheating problem so i put more water in it...drove fine but now my car bucks or hesitates after 2500RPM...do you guys know whats goin on?

Actually, it is probaly due to those crappy plug wires, old plugs, and the old fuel filter. Did you get all those parts last week? I have your 2g manifold sitting here so we can get it all fixed up this week. I will do a few more logs after it is together and see what everything looks like. You might also want to put some more fuel in it if you havent already. Im sure there might be a little trash in the tank thats getting sucked into the filter with it being that low(almost empty) I also have the fiter kit to clean and oil the k&n because it looks like it really needs it.

Have you had to put more water in it since I was over a couple weks ago?
 
My car was bucking badly a little while after I bought it, bought Accel 8mm wires and some new NGK plugs and it went away.
 
well from my Trials and errors.. ive learned that that could be one of 3 things... it could be your Fuel Filter/pump/Injectors. 2: It could be your BOV. if you have a Rec. BOV or the Stock one then you night want to check that because my hose came off once then it wouldnt let me get above 3000 RPMs... or 3: it could be your Plugs/Coils/ Wires.
 
ok....heres whatsup....i had just put new plugs and wires on the other day....i put the wires on before i did the plugs because i didnt have a socket for the plugs...when i got the socket i was pullin the wires to get to the plugs....got all three wires off then the last one was being awnry so it ended up breaking...so i just grabbed one of my old ones til i get an extra.....it seems like under boost my car drives fine...but ANY kinda of boost my car bucks...
 
I just put in a brand new Fluidyne radiator and 2 new 12" Slim Line fans in my DSM, because it kept overheating after about 15 minutes of driving. After I installed my radiator I took it out for a spin and sure enough on the way home it started heating up again. I have done the following and my DSM still overheats.

Installed Fluidyne Radiator
Installed 12" Slim Line A/C Fan
Installed 12" Slim Line Radiator Fan
Performed Fan Relay Mod (when one fan comes on, both of them come on)
Replaced Thermostat

Why is my DSM still having overheating issues even after all of this? Is there something I'm missing?

Thanks in advance.
 
I agree. With that kind of cooling power, there's an issue elsewhere. I don't mean to sound goofy in any way, but it may be a good idea to check the following:

1. Replace thermostat and verify that it's an OEM 180 degree unit.
2. Have the coolant temp sensor checked.
3. Replace radiator cap with an OEM unit.
4. Verify that the fans are pulling air from the rad instead of pushing air into it.

I also thought about the water pump so that may be something to look into as well. Please let us know what you find and good luck!

Andy
 
Please just do a boost leak test..it will tell us whats going on.

Go to ACE,True value,or any hardware store and by a rubber hose from 1.5in to 2in. cap of the 1.5in with a pvc cap that size. and connect the 2in side to the inlet of the turbo,the part that connects to the intake hose that connects to the air box. in the pvc cap drill a whole so you can fit a valve stem in it. use hose clamps and pressurize to 15 or so psi. Find where it leaks and go from there. don't use the stock boost gage though, it won't help you, has to be after market. Let us know the outcome.

If you think overheating it has messed something up. do a compression test. Buy or borrow a gage and screw it into each cylinder with all spark plugs out and engine at operating temp. should be around 150 or so 130 is getting low and all cylinders should be within 10-12psi. If that checks out chances are your ok there, if it doesn't do a leak down test next. search for how to do that,because I don't want t type that. also if they are low do the same test but add a table spoon or so of oil if the increase chances are your rings are gone.

Also give us more info..like does it smoke at all after this, what color is it? white,blue,black?? and does your car blow out heat when the heater is on?

Those are the extremes, you more than likely have a boost leak.I wish mine problem was that simple

DSMr Son
 
Thank you for replying, I just took another ride and it did it again. And as for your post andymoraitis; I have replaced the thermostat with an OEM 180 degree unit, replaced the radiator cap (with a higher pressure one though), and checked that both fans are pulling air away from the radiator (and they are). I haven't checked the coolant temp sensor and I'm thinking the same thing about the water pump.

As for your post drivemusicnow; my egts are normal and my coolant looks green (which I think is normal). I put the premixed 50/50 water/coolant stuff from O'Reily's, so it looks like watered down green but that should be normal, right?

I was wondering if maybe it could have anything to air bubbles in the system? It might make sense considering that I just replaced half the cooling system. I don't know what else it could be unless it is my water pump. If all else fails I'll get that checked, I just don't want my car which I've invested $25K+ ($6.5K for car, about $18.5K in parts/service) into to pop and be ruined. I have another car but it sucks I can't drive my little pride and joy :cry:
 
BenHenthorn said:
Thank you for replying, I just took another ride and it did it again. And as for your post andymoraitis; I have replaced the thermostat with an OEM 180 degree unit, replaced the radiator cap (with a higher pressure one though), and checked that both fans are pulling air away from the radiator (and they are). I haven't checked the coolant temp sensor and I'm thinking the same thing about the water pump.

As for your post drivemusicnow; my egts are normal and my coolant looks green (which I think is normal). I put the premixed 50/50 water/coolant stuff from O'Reily's, so it looks like watered down green but that should be normal, right?

I was wondering if maybe it could have anything to air bubbles in the system? It might make sense considering that I just replaced half the cooling system. I don't know what else it could be unless it is my water pump. If all else fails I'll get that checked, I just don't want my car which I've invested $25K+ ($6.5K for car, about $18.5K in parts/service) into to pop and be ruined. I have another car but it sucks I can't drive my little pride and joy :cry:

I'd go with either air bubbles or the water pump at this point. I'm not sure what the effects would be as a result of a higher pressure radiator cap. but I'd put a 13 psi AutoZone unit on just to see if it makes a difference. Unfortunately, I'm leaning towards water pump if that doesn't fix it.

Hang in there and don't worry. You'll get it sorted out!

Andy
 
whens it running have you checked the top hose to see if it's hot and you can actually feel the flow? if not it's your water pump. If you do replace that do a t-belt change to. it's worth the money. Also don't want to sound to negative, but have you done a compression test and does it blow hot air out when the heater is on. If not it may be the head gasket which is a pain to replace.

Let us know

DSMr Son
 
I got a 16 PSI cap from O'Reily's, not sure what the effects would be but I didn't think it would hurt to try the higher pressure unit. I'm leaning toward the water pump too but I'm going to exhaust every option before replacing that.

I had the car running and I checked the top hose, it had a lot of pressure and it was really hot. I'm unsure if it was flowing or not but I may take your advice DevilSperm and take the cap off with the car on. Will the coolant spill out if the cap is off while the car is running? Any other ways to get air bubbles out of the cooling system?
 
I will reply to this because the original poster is now on his way to Costa Rica for vacation.

Boost leak test was fine, overheating is due to cooling fans not coming on. The bucking was actually just a dead cylinder from a cut plug wire. Compression test shows 150-157 in all cylinders, no oil or water mixing, and no smoking at all. I think I ruled out hg and head problems. Whe I left his house last night, the car was running fine with no issues what so ever.
 
I'm sure it's my water pump now. I took DevilSperm's advice and ran the car with the cap off, sure enough the coolant wasn't flowing. Only a few bubbles came up when it was running, I guess I know how to fix the problem now. Thank you all very much for your help, now it's just a matter of getting it over to my DSM guy and getting it fixed. I will also do a t-belt change (thanks DSM'r MOM), I guess I'll get to work then.
 
Also- this isn't the problem, but it'll help your cooling- remember to put Redline water wetter in with your coolant. It's an awesome product. :thumb:
 
1gp0wer said:
Also- this isn't the problem, but it'll help your cooling- remember to put Redline water wetter in with your coolant. It's an awesome product. :thumb:

Water Wetter won't actually help cooling at all. To the best of my knowledge it will be:
a) pink.
b) resist freezing.
c) fight corrosion.

Water wetter actually lowers the cooling properties of plain H2o.
I'm not saying don't use it, but don't do so under the assumption it will make your water absorb heat from the rad any better.
 
My car has been overheating recently. I can only drive it about 15 miles or so before it does it. The temp gauge slowly goes up, and gets to the highest mark before the red (never taken it that far). When I come to a stop, my coolant is overflowing like crazy, and I've filled it back up once. The fans never seem to turn on when they should now. I checked the connectors with a test light and they seem to come on when the car is running. The fans even work when I turned on the A/C. So I assume it isn't anything to do with wiring or relays, but I'm not sure. Coolant temp sensor? Rad. cap? Thermostat? Any help guys or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 
check your coolant temp sensor - it may be faulty and also if the radiator doesn't have enough coolant the main (passenger side) fan will not turn on.
 
Also check the actual sensor that turns the fans on. Im not sure of the proper name but it is located on the lower, passenger side of the radiator next to the lower radiator hose. It is screwed into the radiator and has a 2 wire plug on it. Make sure it is still connected and test to make sure it is functioning properly.
 
Thanks for the replies. I think tomorrow I'm gonna go buy a coolant temp sensor, radiator cap, and a thermostat. I'll also check out the connector you spoke of. Should I just check it with a test light? When should it come on? All the time while running, and when the key is on? Thanks a lot.
 
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