Car Overheated / Overheating / Overheats [MERGED]

[NTRCOOL]

OVERHEATING? The issues and their solutions have remained the same- either you don't have enough cool air reaching the rad, there's a cooling system obstruction which is preventing coolant from circulating, or your head gasket has failed and is allowing coolant to be consumed or pushed away from the engine.

Discuss all possible overheating problems and solutions here.


OK,
I just left my house to go over to my GF's,and happen to look down and see my needle right before the red mark. This just happened out of nowhere. I stop the car as quickly as i can, and pour in some coolant(Coolant a little low). Still same thing. Welp im in the middle of the road, and HAD to get it home. Im only 5 min from my house. I decided to try and make it(I really had no other choice). Welp I drive no faster than 20mph, and the temp needle is BARELY into the red the whole way.And occasionaly to the left of it. Am I ok?? Do ya think any damage was done?? And im thinking either thermostat, or water pump. For each of those, whats a round about $$ figure to get replaced?? Any info you have would be GREATLY appreciated!

 

[EglTalon_ESi]

does anyone know the torque specs?

 

[kalla]

If you are attempting to install a head without having looked at the service manual, you should have your tools taken away. The ARP studs come with a sheet telling you the torque specs (they suggest 80 ft-lb), and a half-decent 1/2'' torque wrench will cost you $50.

 

[johnk]

He's got the NT motor so it may be different torque specs then we're all use to using. He's got a 420a motor in there.

 

[gsxtacy]

Well I guess the headgasket finally gave out. I have tried EVERYTHING. Flushed the radiator, changed the thermostat, twice. New cap, new coolant, burped the system.

I know its the head gasket. Christmas, New Years just behind me, damn I am broke.
I have a water pump sitting on the shelf, figure if I have to go as far as removing the head, I "might as well" do the water pump, timing and BS belts, while I am there.

I have a Holset HX40, that is SOo perfect for someone, how about who ever that someone is that wants this HX40 hooks me up with the parts I need so I can fix my car.

Mitsu layered Head Gasket
ARP Head studs
Kevlar timing belt
Mitsu timing tensioner
Mitsu tensioner pulley

Like I said I have a water pump, but now the head gasket is gone.

This HX40 is Brand New never used, Somebody has got to want a 70 lb min turbo.

PM me, I'll pay shipping to you for the same on the parts I need.

gsxtacy

 

[Boost Addict]

He's got the NT motor so it may be different torque specs then we're all use to using. He's got a 420a motor in there.

yeah, best bet is to just call up ARP

 

[EglTalon_ESi]

Well I didn't get the sheet with the torque specs when I got the apr studs. If you haven't noticed the title says 1G so its not for my 420a I don't have to work on that, it never gives me problems . I'm working on my 4g63T 1990 Laser.

 

[snailpower]

I had the same problem with my 1g. The previous owner didn't machine the head nor did he torque it down. I kept busting hoses, and seeing black flakes in my coolant (carbon i guessed) so I removed the head, had it machined, installed new hoses and now it runs like a champ! My local machine shop only charged me 35 bucks to re-surface it, and clean it. It's much cheaper if you remove the valves yourself, just go to a mitsu/eagle dealer and buy the valve tool (looks like a giant C clamp). Remove the valves and keep them in order, then re-install the same valves into the coresponding holes. I torqued my head back on to the tune of 85ft lbs w/ARP studs. GOOD LUCK

 

[wret]

My wife borrowed my car and it threw the main accessory belt. Not knowing any better, she proceeded on her way until the battery died and the car stalled. After replacing the belt and attempting to drive home the car overheated quickly. Upon closer inspection I found almost no coolant or oil left in the engine. I refilled and limped home but noticed that it overheats while cruising at any speed but recovered while idling at stop lights. This with the heater on full. It overheated out of control when I shut the heater off?

The oil level seemed consistent for the 40 mile ride home but there is oil everywhere under the car. It obviously blew out from somewhere.

Any ideas what the extent of the damage might be?

 

[marcmsj]

first thing will be to check your headgasket, chances are, you blew it. and if oil is coming from somewhere, go under there and see where it's leaking from

 

[turbodagain]

do a compression test first, although almost certain your head gasket is gone though, with the different expansion rates between our aluminum head and the cast block, our motors are prone to blow headgaskets when over heated. When the head is off, make sure to check for warpage.

 

[wret]

Yeah, that's what I was afraid of. The pattern of oil spray does come from the head gasket area.

Thanks.

 

[Defiant]

Terrible, Wret.

You need a hand disposing of her body?

 

[hewhoisknot]

the car or wifey defiant?

 

[98spydert]

You mean the water pump wasn't turning? And the coolant in the block boiled? And the oil wasn't cooled at all from our nifty 2G oil cooler? And... ok I'll stop.

Sorry to hear man, hope the head's fine and it's just a simple HG swap.

I always tell my wife, "if a light comes on, or it makes a wierd noise or anything happens you don't feel comfterable about... pull over, use the free tow service I got for us, and let a flat bed make the trip home" So far it hasn't come to that *knock on wood*

 

[wret]

Oh, she feels real bad. She said she would help me fix it.
"Honey, can hand me the ratchet?"
"No, not the racquet, the shiny, handle thingy."
"and a 12mm socket"
"No, no, put those stockings down. The little cylinder shaped thing with 12-M-M on the side."

Oh well, I’ll get through it.
Besides the obvious head and manifold gaskets, are there any parts I should replace while I’m in there? The timing belts pretty new.

 

[98spydert]

You could throw in some nifty ARP head studs while it's open. One of my cam seals was leaking so that was a good time to replace that. Check your tensioner for a leak out around the shaft. Have the head checked out at a machine shop. I guess just look over everything.

 

[badas93tsi]

if i thought i was going to get a smart ass response i wouldnt have bothered.

 

[KlaSoliz]

Hey, dont know if youve tried, but it could be something simple, like the wiring for your coolant fans. After a week or so of owning my car it started to overheat, I started it up and watched my engine to see if everything was working correctly and noticed my fans werent coming on. So I thought it was the radiator fuse. I thought that the 'points' were damaged or something. That wasnt it. So I checked the wiring for my fan temperature, there are two metal plugs that the terminal go on when you connect it together, well on that same line of wiring that is taped together there is a third. If the car is started without those hooked up but the third hooked up, the it was fry that third wire. Maybe the people that put your head gasket on did something like that. But fixing that third wire fixed my problem. It doesnt sound like you are having the same problem since you say it over heats when you spool. Mine was kinda the samething, I would have to get it to spool to overheat, but if I waited long enough it would overheat on its own. Just an idea. Hope it helps. Clayton

 

[Spyder FX]

Those parts are about 475 bucks total, your turbo is worth almost double that from the site I saw it on. Just be patient and keep the turbo, and save up for the replacement parts. I wish I could help you out, but my car has problems of it's own that I need to address...

 

[m1nd64m3]

latley my car has been overheating because my rad fan wont turn on, but now my coolant is all foamy. do you think it could be a headgasket? what are some other signs of blown headgasket? there is no oil or gas in the coolant and theres no steam coming out exhaust. car also takes a good 7-8 minutes to warm up to operating temperature, but its also like 10 degrees out. other things look good too like vacuum is 22hg(not sure if it matters) at idle and timing is good too. car runs fine except for the coolant is foaming like a biatch.

and the rad fan, could it be a bad coolant temp sensor? i still get a reading off of it on the logger but sometimes it jumps from 200 to 185(maybe air bubble?). i know the fan works because i jumped it with 12v and it worked. what temperature does the fan go on at? and will driving for about 15 minutes at 200-220 be bad for car?(got stuck in super slow moving traffic with nowhere to pull over)

 

[sjgYFZ200]

Compression test.

 

[Larry L]

Yeah!!! What he said....Check for water in oil, and oil in coolant. Is your exhaust smoking and if soo what color is it?

 

[karbon]

I've had the fan relay go out on me before. Your shop manual should have details on how to test it.

 

[CorvetteBoy]

I have the same problem as you, so i'd really like to know whats going on with my car...

The car runs FINE when i'm moving at a nice rate of speed (about 35mph min) so it runs around 191-197 deg... but when i drive really slow or idle the car reaches about 206-209 then the fan goes on... goes back down... i shut my car off and i've seen the temps go as high as 223 on my datalogger and i'm sure had it not been -2 degrees celcius outside it would have went closer to your reading of 245... so i'm conserned about when summer arives, doesn't anyone know what to do?

 

[Darksyne]

Isn't it -15° in Illinois today?

My car barely warmed up by the time I got to work.