The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Car Overheated / Overheating / Overheats [MERGED]

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

NTRCOOL

Probationary Member
24
0
Apr 10, 2002
OVERHEATING? The issues and their solutions have remained the same- either you don't have enough cool air reaching the rad, there's a cooling system obstruction which is preventing coolant from circulating, or your head gasket has failed and is allowing coolant to be consumed or pushed away from the engine.

Discuss all possible overheating problems and solutions here.



OK,
I just left my house to go over to my GF's,and happen to look down and see my needle right before the red mark. This just happened out of nowhere. I stop the car as quickly as i can, and pour in some coolant(Coolant a little low). Still same thing. Welp im in the middle of the road, and HAD to get it home. Im only 5 min from my house. I decided to try and make it(I really had no other choice). Welp I drive no faster than 20mph, and the temp needle is BARELY into the red the whole way.And occasionaly to the left of it. Am I ok?? Do ya think any damage was done?? And im thinking either thermostat, or water pump. For each of those, whats a round about $$ figure to get replaced?? Any info you have would be GREATLY appreciated!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
You need a new fan. The car isn't going to magically cool itself down at idle with no airflow through the radiator.

Buy some new fans. If you can't fit a puller fan on the rear where the A/C fan was, try a smaller pusher fan on the front side of the a/c condensor (if you have one, radiator if not).
 
AC has been deleted. I will try to find a pusher for the front and will try another passenger side fan since I have one, after that I plan on upgrading to slim line fans since I had to cut the shroud a little one the passengers side fan as well. The HG should be fine. It was an MLS with both surfaces decked, no white smoke and its not pushing coolant, just running hot because of the airflow. Are mishimoto slim fans any good?
 
I was running an MLS gasket that wasn't pushing coolant or blowing white smoke, but it was overheating pretty bad. What I ended up doing was hooking my air compressor up to each cylinder (make sure you don't allow the crankshaft to rotate and the cylinder is at TDC of it's compression stroke), and pumping some PSI into the combustion chambers. I took off the coolant cap, and there were tiny bubbles surfacing in the coolant there. I ended up getting a stock Mitsu head gasket. I also have a Mishimoto radiator with a large FMIC blocking a good portion of it, and it is impossible to get my car to overheat.

If the passenger fan isn't kicking on, and your AC is deleted, you have absolutely NO cooling. This is probably your issue.
 
Pusher fans aren't as effective as puller fans since pullers can really pull the air in. Another thing to mind is that you got a larger 'CC' motor in there that can generate more heat and it prob needs a bit more coolant flow and forced air to compensate for the added heat generated.

Also, are you running 50/50 antifreeze mix or just distilled water an wetter? if just the latter, water alone will NOT be as effective to extract heat from the block along with a colder 160 t-stat (which acts like a "water throttle" so the coolant can be slowed down enough to pull the heat away from the block more effectively) and why a 195 really does the job well, plus you can kiss the WP pump goodbye in a heart beat since antifreeze is the lubricant for the WP.

Maybe put a fan on the FMIC so the main fan can work by itself to cool the coolant down for the motor.

see what happens - DSM
 
Alright so I ran 2 jumpers from the battery to the fan and it turned on. The fan is not the problem. It is within the wiring or a sensor then. But if I use a paperclip on the bottom fan plug that goes to the radiator thermoswitch it still should've turned on right? I replaced the relay for it. Where is the fuse located?

The fan relay clicks when I add the paperclip with the key on.
 
...yu can also push in the AC button to 1st click then turn the fan switch on to any position. This throws the relays closed for both fans to power them up to run continually....been there and done that with a bad radiator sensor until replacement came around.

DSM
 
Thanks I will do that when it is running warm. I was able to fix the problem finally. The 30amp fuse off the battery was broke. Replaced it and fan works fine now. Thanks for the help everyone!
 
OK So I am dumb what is burping and how do you do it? I'm having same issue? yet I'm losing coolant and yet can't find any leaks.
 
Sounds like a cooling fan to me. I mean honestly if the the car only overheats at a stop, and then cools down when your moving all points to a non-working cooling fan. Your smelling coolant because it boils and, is getting hot and it is going into the coolant overflow and then when it cools back down the system should suck it back in. You probaly wouldn't notice.
 
Im having the same problem im going to do what you guys have suggested to do (check hose temps).I do have a fan out so i do over heat while siting still but while driving im fine, but i know im stilll above normal. So it does sound like you have a fan thats not working!
 
I had a hole about half inch on the hose that goes back to firewall. It was at the clamp so I cut it til I can get all new lines for it. Also gonna get some duel slim fans and a radiator hopefully will solve my issue.
 
I have a 1990 eagle talon tsi fwd I insured it and drove it for 30 mins and I noticed the tempature wad in the red and when I push in the clutch the engine would die, obviously it was overheating I pull over pop the hood and there was oil sprayed everywhere and lots of smoke from the oil burning off the pipes. It was leaking antifreeze and the fan wasn't coming on, we replaced the wster pump and the fan so we start it up. The engine wouldn't start unless reved while turning the key after it's running it idles really rough and it pumps wster out the overflow compression is around 100ish and no water on the dipstick. what is going onn??

List of mods: -Fully rebuilt#4G63T engine at 240000 kilometers (Everything in the engine replaced)
-ARP head studs kit
-Titanium valves and valve springs
-Balance shaft deleted
-Evo 3 exhaust manifold and Big 16G turbo, brand new at 240000 kilometers as well
-Exedy Stage 2 clutch kit
-HKS blow-off valve
-Walbro 255LPH fuel pump
-Spearco front mount intercooler with aluminum piping and Vibrant couplers
-Autometer Boost and Air/fuel ratio gauges in pillar pod
-Tanabe adjustable shocks with lowering springs
-Magnaflow muffler/Catalytic converter#deleted
-Polished 16 inch rims
-Powerslot rotors with Hawk brake pads
-Grant steering wheel
-B&M shifter knob
Aftermarket turbo manifold
#
-Sony xplod hu
300 watt jl audio speaker amp
-Sony 10 inch sub in ported box
Two 15" mtx thunderpro 750 watt
-Bass inferno 1500Watts amplifier
-JVC mtx, and alpine speakers
 
we redid the pump and noticed no difference, hopefully doing a leak test tomorrow and I'll try to redo the compression to get some more accurate numbers. any ideas for anything else I could/should check while I'm at it? we thought the rad might be plugged but it seems clean with no slime or debris.
 
hoping it's not a hg but if it is I get to put my rebuilt head on :) and what would the amp have to do with it? I had it in my 500 dollar beater with a shit battery and it was fine,brand new battery in the talon aswell..
 
so I asked my dad what the compression was and apparently it was 100 all the way across and the last one was 110. we weren't aware that the compression had to no lower than 130. So 100% chance of a blown head gasket I'm guessing haha. :(
 
so I asked my dad what the compression was and apparently it was 100 all the way across and the last one was 110. we weren't aware that the compression had to no lower than 130. So 100% chance of a blown head gasket I'm guessing haha. :(

compression has nothing to do with the waterpump. but everything to do with how the motor runs. if your compression is 100...you have a blown head gasket or a warped head
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top