Car Overheated / Overheating / Overheats [MERGED]

[NTRCOOL]

OVERHEATING? The issues and their solutions have remained the same- either you don't have enough cool air reaching the rad, there's a cooling system obstruction which is preventing coolant from circulating, or your head gasket has failed and is allowing coolant to be consumed or pushed away from the engine.

Discuss all possible overheating problems and solutions here.


OK,
I just left my house to go over to my GF's,and happen to look down and see my needle right before the red mark. This just happened out of nowhere. I stop the car as quickly as i can, and pour in some coolant(Coolant a little low). Still same thing. Welp im in the middle of the road, and HAD to get it home. Im only 5 min from my house. I decided to try and make it(I really had no other choice). Welp I drive no faster than 20mph, and the temp needle is BARELY into the red the whole way.And occasionaly to the left of it. Am I ok?? Do ya think any damage was done?? And im thinking either thermostat, or water pump. For each of those, whats a round about $$ figure to get replaced?? Any info you have would be GREATLY appreciated!

 

[nightmares GS-T]

I hate to ask, but did you try running straight water yet? I kind of feel like this is a stupid thing to ask but hell.. you never know.

You would wanna run just a bit of antifreeze with it but if freezing temps aren't an issue then lowering the anti freeze to water ratio may possibly help bc water dissipates heat faster.

 

[97gst_spyder]

Or throw Water-Wetter in it with no anti-freeze. Even better.

 

[LiquidX]

Gusu, Nightmare is correct with that. For a DD use you want to have some coolant as it's a lubricant for the water pump. Also the coolant raises the boiling point of the water too.

 

[nightmares GS-T]

I had this problem before and it turned out to be a clog in the high pressure side of the a/c. I dont remember what was replaced but ive never had an overheat issue since.

Thanks for that bit of info is there a way to check for clogs without evacuating the entire system?

 

[JMiller]

Thanks everyone for all the help, and i mentioned earlier that i would either run a pusher in addition to the pullers i have and do some ducting. Also the car doesnt overheat unless the fan switch is in position 4 with the A/C on, it runs perfectly fine with the A/C on in fan mode 3,2 and 1. I am now wondering if the A/C compressor works harder or stays on longer in fan mode 4? Also my coolant to water ratio is about 30c/70w and run a factory temp thermostat.

 

[19BLACKGST98]

Thanks for that bit of info is there a way to check for clogs without evacuating the entire system?

I didnt do the work but I was there. Im sure someone else can let you know for sure but I dont think he had to discharge it for the test. He did have to when he replaced the little part though. The low side read normal and the high side read really high.

 

[Palmetto_TSi]

Thanks everyone for all the help, and i mentioned earlier that i would either run a pusher in addition to the pullers i have and do some ducting. Also the car doesnt overheat unless the fan switch is in position 4 with the A/C on, it runs perfectly fine with the A/C on in fan mode 3,2 and 1. I am now wondering if the A/C compressor works harder or stays on longer in fan mode 4? Also my coolant to water ratio is about 30c/70w and run a factory temp thermostat.

Once again this points to a low freon level. I would get that checked or stop using the A/C. There are many guys out there running FMIC, and A/C with no issues...

 

[scott90gsx420]

For some of us removing the ac isn't an option. I don't know how hot it gets in idaho but I can assure you it isn't nearly as hot there as it is here. 98 degrees there and here are two completely different worlds when you factor in the ridiculous humidity. Our average heat index is over 100. So before you go flaming and cursing at the guy do a little research. I can imagine it gets pretty toasty in SC as well especially if he's close to the coastline. To the op im fighting the same issue right now so i'll be following this thread and hope to find an answer.

Lol idk where i flamed him or cursed so id reread what was said... We always see temps above 100 while we may not have the humidity we still have high temps.. What research do i need to do?? Nothing i said was uninformative or off topic.. I know humidity makes a difference but not that much i lived in florida for 4 years bro.. And i regularly took my last dsm down there for work and Always had the same overheating issues as right hear in idaho.. Actually it seemed to overheat a bit slower but who knows... All i know is issue was there regardless of where i was.. Untill i removed the A/C..

As far as cleaning out the rad for clogs you could try pulling it and running really hot water threw it thats about the best way i think there are cleaners but youd still want to pull it out of the car anyways just so you can see if chunks are coming out and to get a stronger mix.. Then take an air compressor and blow out any bugs or dirt and leaves on the outside of it..

 

[lb_gst99]

It all depends on where you live. Here in SoFL with 2-12" Slim fans I was able to run A/C fine. Even though my Compressor is bad right now when I do fill it it runs fine. I also have a Thick Rad and FMIC. Overheating with DSMs have been problems for years now. Remove it or don't use it at all. That's one can say. Or spend the money and get an ALL NEW updated A/C system.

 

[DSM1G90]

as it's a lubricant for the water pump. Also the coolant raises the boiling point of the water too.

I run 50/50 mix with no "wetter" stuff .. and leave the T-stat in - you need to 'throttle" the water flow to help pull the heat off the cylinder walls, for if you move water past a hot surface too fast, the heat will remain on that surface.

 

[estoyaqui30]

I have the same issue, if I run the A/C it will cause the car to overheat. I know all of the reasoning, I'm just trying to find a workaround. The A/C removes the heat through the evaporator coil, so the heat is in front of the radiator and is heating the radiator. Now, when I mix this with the heat radiated from the FP03052 turbo, the wastegate, downpipe which are all just a couple inches from the inside of the radiator. I think that I need to get more air flowing through the radiator. I'm thinking a sheet of aluminum or SS between turbo and radiator AND make the sheet metal extend down below the bottom of the radiator and bend forward around 45 degrees so it will introduce extra cool air from outside to flow between the radiator and sheetmetal

 

[DSM1G90]

I run the A/C it will cause the car to overheat

If one can find to put an electric motor on the compressor to relieve the extra workload on the engine, this overheating issue would be well under control..

Also, the problem could be the compressor itself thinking on going out causing major extra work on the engine and why of the overheating, or it's low on compressor oil to lubricate the pistons within the compressor. Just some areas to think about since the majority of our vehicles ARE reaching a decent age being the 2g's ended in 1998 for the 1999 model year - being the minimum age of 13 years old (my laser is 22 years old and the compressor must have died long before I got it back in '08, thus I yanked out the condensor radiator (which was cracked anywho..) knowing that it's gonna cost big to replace the compressor and convert the system to R-134).

Thus a question: before the mods came in on these vehicles, how was the AC operation then - normal, or still overheating problems? If normal, then we know that the added mods have hindered the AC operation with reducing the airflow through the radiator. But, if the motor was overheating prior to the mods, then we can easily point the finger at the compressor and the AC system itself.

Now, have to ask another simple question: How many of you DSM owners run their licence plate in the intake opening of your vehicle? If so, what that danged plate does is act like a big air dam preventing air to go through all of the items that is stuffed in front.

some thoughts .... thx for listening - DSM

 

[TSITurbo95]

Ever solve this issue? If not, get better slim line fans/shrouded fan setup. A shrouded fan setup will solve your overheating issue, if its idle related.

 

[LiquidX]

I'd agree with getting some more powerful fans. When I had 2 slim fans that are rated around 900 cfm I would be running around 220* with them both on. Currently I'm running around 230* cruising due to only having a single fan.

I just ordered in new fans for a setup I'm making to allow 2800cfm of airflow. Consider switching over to some 12" SPAL fans.

Also, the stock fans blow around 1300-1600 cfm each.

 

[AMPPRC]

As the title says I have overheating issues. The car started overheating today after I put the front bumper back on. The temps where just fine when I was running it with out a front bumper. The car only starts overgeting when I'm 50 mph or slower. Here's a list of what I got done to the car greedy fmic, punishment racing radiator with two slim fans, 3in down pipe not cat, and 3 in greedy catback exhaust. The thermostat was replaced a month ago because I did a coolant flush also. The fans do kick on and off.

 

[Alan11]

I would say the the Front mount is blocking the air while running.

 

[scott90gsx420]

^^Even with the front mount with both fans working it shouldn't overheat.. You can try water wetter for starters.. Also are you POSITIVE then fans kick on??? Are they pushers or pullers??? Also what type of slim fans and do they have a good amount of flow?? And is this with the A/C on??
Any bubbles in the system or is it low on coolant??

 

[sikevo9]

yeah i would check the fans like scott said. My brother had his fan hooked up blowing the wrong way and it was overheating.

 

[AMPPRC]

^^Even with the front mount with both fans working it shouldn't overheat.. You can try water wetter for starters.. Also are you POSITIVE then fans kick on??? Are they pushers or pullers??? Also what type of slim fans and do they have a good amount of flow?? And is this with the A/C on??
Any bubbles in the system or is it low on coolant??

Both the fans are on. They are the fans that came with the radiator. They are pullers. Coolant lvls are full

 

[Alan11]

does it overheat at idle.??

 

[danielbo91]

I had the same issue with my old gst why do you try and change the tempsensor thats what my problem with my old gst and are they strong pullers too but i would check your tempsensor may be it helps

 

[scott90gsx420]

Well is this happening with the A/C on??
And are the fans auto-zone fans?? I had to use one for a few weeks when one of my other slim fans died and i noticed a pretty good difference in temps on hot days.. there not nearly as good as a real fan...

They work but not super well during really high temps.. Or is it the stock fans.. If your not sure how good they are one way to see if theyre pulling good amounts of air is to get them on and take a piece of paper and put it on the FMIC while there pulling.. If the paper stays its got good flow if it wont hold to the IC then your fans aren't very good.. When i did this with the autozone fan it held but only with the hood closed with my fans now i can open the hood and it still hold completely flat to the IC..

You said it happens at slow speeds so im really thinking your fans are inadequate and don't pull enough air thats what id bet is the issues at this point... But if its with the A/C on that may be a differnt story.

 

[Jaxness]

Wow, your set up is alot like mine (GReddy FMIC, GReddy catback, 3'' dp, dual 12'' slimfans).

Are both of your fans wired to come on at the same time, or does your radiator fan come on when it reaches temperature, and the passenger side fan comes on when your A/C fan (inside the car) is turned on?

My car is currently having overheating issues, but only when she idles for 2+ minutes on hot days.

Thermostat was replaced
Radiator cap was replaced
Stock radiator and hoses were checked for leaks
Radiator was flushed and "burped"
Both 12'' slimfans are wired to come on at the same time

Her Mishimoto radiator gets here tomorrow, so I'm hoping that fixes it. If not, waterpump and headgasket are the only things left.

 

[guardiangsx]

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oops sry didnt mean to put that

 

[LiquidX]

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oops sry didnt mean to put that

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