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Car Overheated / Overheating / Overheats [MERGED]

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NTRCOOL

Probationary Member
24
0
Apr 10, 2002
OVERHEATING? The issues and their solutions have remained the same- either you don't have enough cool air reaching the rad, there's a cooling system obstruction which is preventing coolant from circulating, or your head gasket has failed and is allowing coolant to be consumed or pushed away from the engine.

Discuss all possible overheating problems and solutions here.



OK,
I just left my house to go over to my GF's,and happen to look down and see my needle right before the red mark. This just happened out of nowhere. I stop the car as quickly as i can, and pour in some coolant(Coolant a little low). Still same thing. Welp im in the middle of the road, and HAD to get it home. Im only 5 min from my house. I decided to try and make it(I really had no other choice). Welp I drive no faster than 20mph, and the temp needle is BARELY into the red the whole way.And occasionaly to the left of it. Am I ok?? Do ya think any damage was done?? And im thinking either thermostat, or water pump. For each of those, whats a round about $$ figure to get replaced?? Any info you have would be GREATLY appreciated!
 
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i dont know it its alright doing this with turbo cars but i had the same problem with my n/t 2.0, and all i had to do is flush the system and problem solved, even my heater was supper hot after that LOL. Mine would overheat at stop lights and as soon as i started driving itll cool down.
 
I agree with the guys above. flush the system and replace thermostat and radiator cap and put coolant in. While your putting coolant in spend an extra $8 and get some Redline water wetter. it works good and i have seen upto 35-degree differences using it. Also hook up both fans to run at the same time. hope this helps.
 
I've been watching for signs of head gasket failure and so far none...no coolant in oil or oil in coolant. no smoking. no lack of power or anything like that.

And 35* difference? I don't think I want my car running any cooler then 190* max.

redline water wetter? I think that's about as much of a waste of money as "Octane Booster" IMO
 
Alright guys, replaced the head gasket, replaced the thermostat, put fresh coolant in, and my car is still overheating. I noticed when I replaced the thermostat, afterwards theres no coolant being sucked out of the housing.. So what do I have to do now? Help GUYS! :ohdamn:
 
Just got a regular 'Advance AutoParts' Thermo. ...I was thinking it might be the cap, but what about a water pump, could that be the problem?
 
Water wetter does work as compared to octane booster. But i think the water wetter is just a bandaid.
 
what the hell is it? it sounds as ridiculous as the Ebay water maker in which you add water then it pours it out.
 
check to see if there is air coming through the radiator, shine a light on one side and check. i had a similar problem before but that was after mud bogging in my jeep.
 
Id start with a coolant system FLUSH because that will remove scale and grime from your cooling system then add fresh coolant. If your still having problems look into a thermostat, radiator, and in worse scenarios a bad water pump (not likely in your case).
 
Pressure test your cooling system, then do a head gasket/block test. It's either a leak or a head gasket issue.
 
I'm having a similiar problem with a fresh rebuild getting extremely hot and the oil breaking down in less than 100 miles.

The oil becomes very thin, and almost like black coffee. After only a few minutes of driving the valve cover radiator, etc are too hot to touch, the upper hose is expanding as if under extreme pressure, but we dont get overflow.

Rebuild is .20 over, head was straightened, stock rebuild. New water pump, oil pump, etc. all new.

New thermostat, but did NOT replace the Cap (13PSI). We had the cooling system filled by a local DSM Shop (AMS Performance) , so we assume the coolant levels are correct.

The car seems to run fine, the temp(dummy) gauge goes up to just under half and never indicates an overheating condition.

Power is strong, but car does blow smoke under acceleration, stock boost guage (dummy) appears to work, but nearly pegs under normal to strong acceleration.

So basically we are thinking we have a couple of issues on this new engine.

1. Cooling System not working as expected
2. The turbo is the original, was inspected for shaft play (very minimal), may need rebuild/replacement
3. Will replace radiator cap (any ideas on brand here? OEM?)
4. Oil is beginning to appear everywhere under the car, as if being blown out of the engine, but no direct signs of where it is coming from, no drips on driveway, garage floor (odd) Assume the heat is affecting seals and gaskets now.

Again, power is strong, but today it was hot out and the car seemed excessively hot, and was beginning to "pop" under acceleration.

Is it possible that the boost is too high, fuel/air too lean, thus causing additional heat?

I believe if we can solve the cooling system, that the other problems can be readily addressed?

HELP!

Chuck
 
ok i have a 1995 eagle talon esi. i can drive it for about 30 minutes and the temp gauge slowly starts to climb up, if i turn the heater in it'll go back down to normal for about another 30 minutes. it overheats at red lights but drops back down when i rev it up to about 2000rpms. i have changed the radiator hoses, temperature sensor and sender, thermostat, and i have flushed it twice.this is my first dsm and im out of ideas.
 
like everyone said i had the same issue in my 1990 gsx turbo eclipse... i thought it was head gasket and all that. Just flush the coolant and do 50/50 instantly solved my problem and i love my car =]
 
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