Car Overheated / Overheating / Overheats [MERGED]

[NTRCOOL]

OVERHEATING? The issues and their solutions have remained the same- either you don't have enough cool air reaching the rad, there's a cooling system obstruction which is preventing coolant from circulating, or your head gasket has failed and is allowing coolant to be consumed or pushed away from the engine.

Discuss all possible overheating problems and solutions here.


OK,
I just left my house to go over to my GF's,and happen to look down and see my needle right before the red mark. This just happened out of nowhere. I stop the car as quickly as i can, and pour in some coolant(Coolant a little low). Still same thing. Welp im in the middle of the road, and HAD to get it home. Im only 5 min from my house. I decided to try and make it(I really had no other choice). Welp I drive no faster than 20mph, and the temp needle is BARELY into the red the whole way.And occasionaly to the left of it. Am I ok?? Do ya think any damage was done?? And im thinking either thermostat, or water pump. For each of those, whats a round about $$ figure to get replaced?? Any info you have would be GREATLY appreciated!

 

[JD98GSX]

i decided to go ahead and try them so i could free up some space under the hood, and that way i shouldnt have a problem fitting a bigger turbo and exh mani

 

[cutty2fast]

thats like the reason i had tried them on my old car i like the slim look and they cleaned up the bay good, just didnt cool down my beast

 

[JD98GSX]

i hear ya, I am going to take my head off in the morning so i can see if i need it resurfaced and replace the HG, so i am gooin to see what i can do to get her to run right. It ran great until i blew the HG, and i honestly think thats why she overheated so bad.

Also, take a good look at the intake manifold to cylinder head mating surface as well, sounds like there was a big leak there from the clutch-in-rpm-climb you described. It's definitely a post throttle body air leak.[/QUOTE]

if the head got hot enough to blow the HG wouldnt it also be possible to screww up any seal or gasket on the intake mani?

 

[delta448]

Is there a fan shroud installed? You wouldn't believe the difference a well sealed shroud and strong puller fan can make. Pusher fans aren't nearly as efficient, in case you weren't aware.

Yes, if the head was hot enough to blow the headgasket, it could certainly effect that. Even more so if you subjected it to a steam bath from the underside with escaping coolant.

 

[JD98GSX]

Yes i do have the shroud on the hotside of my radiator. And both of my fans were pullers because at normal speed a pusher fan is pointless.

it is all making sence. I am making a trip to my buddys shop today to see how much all this is going to cost

 

[6boltpwr]

when i blew my head gasket i warped the head and dented the block skills i know....

anyway make sure you dont have the head just milled and slap it back on there. Have the shop check all the valves and if your mileage is high it wouldnt be a bad idea to replace the valve seals it you have never had it done. drop some nasty cam's in there while your at it .

get rid of our stock crappy head and exhaust studs. do yourself a favor and get some ARP studs.

 

[shockracer]

my good friend's boosted civic had a vary close problem as well with his T-stat getting stuck, his buddy's had takin it out cut the entire spring asembly out and welded a washer to it ( to restrick flow) but never to get stuck closed. takes a bit to warm up but no more failing T-stats.

 

[JD98GSX]

Ya i was planning on throwing some new valves. seals, lifters, and cams in there while she was out. Some good ole' 272 cams ( I would like to run 280's but i don't think my setup is ready for those) will make here sounds greats and run like sweet also. And i already ordered the ARP's so Hopefully this was a blessing in disguise.

Ok, went to my buddies shop and this is what it looks like is going to be the damage for the parts and lobor.

Parts:
-Head Gasket and intake manifold gasket ---$199.00
-Cylinder Head bolt kit ARP ---$99.00
-Timing Belt (already purchased a gates belt a few weeks ago
-Balance shaft Belt (already purchased a gates belt a few weeks ago)
-Timing belt tensioner and Idler pully kit ---$130
-Radiator flush, and refill ---$23.00
- Thermostat and seal ---$26.28
-oil and filter ---$58.94
-Water Pump ---$43.99
-BC 280/280 cams with retainers and springs ---$589.00
BC adjustible cam gears ---199.00

Labor cost ---$870.00

labor includes. Head removal, surface check, and resuface. valve cleaning and adjustmenttiming and ignition adjustment, thermostat replacement, oil change, fluid level check, safty inspection, and Emissions test. And timing belt install along with tensioners and pullys. Head reinstall.


Damn. this sucks. But she should hold up for a while.

 

[6boltpwr]

wire your fans together and do your car a favor with the shroud. like the guys said priyor to my reply it is so easy to do. you can even go all out and run a switch inside the car to control them to be always on. all very simple, check out the vfaq.com for more info on it.

 

[TuRBoTaLooN]

I have a similar setup and had similar issues. I will just point out some key things and do with it what you will. I hope this helps.....

1) The intercooler blocks all the airflow to the radiator when you are driving. This is a HUGE factor in keeping it cool. You will have to expect some higher temps with the FMIC than stock, but there are things you can do. Many people fabricate some shrouds or ducting to direct airflow from other areas towards the radiator. For example, know where your stock intercooler was? Chances are air is flowing into that area while driving, just direct it towards your radiator. Other people will put shims in the hood hinges so more hot air will rise out from the top. Or get a new hood with some vents in it, or even put vents in your current hood. The more airflow the better!

2) Personally, I think the OEM thermostat is the best one to use for this car. It was built specifically for your car, so use it. You don't necessarily want a "cooler" thermostat for this situation. Chances are, when the thermostat opens, the coolant does an adequate job of cooling your motor. The problem is that your radiator is heating up too fast and your combination of airflow and fans is not adequate enough to stop it from heatsoaking quickly.

3) Your fans should be between the radiator and the motor "pulling" air from the front to the back. This is the most efficient setup. Wire both fans together so when the regular one (passenger side) kicks on, the ac fan (driver's side) will also kick on. There are a few posts about how to do this on here.

4) If you have DSMLink, you can set the fans to be on 100% of the time, or go on earlier. I have it set for both fans to go on around 160-170F. This allows the motor to get up to operating temp as per usual, but helps keep the radiator cool during driving. If you don't have DSMLink, you can actually wire the fans to a thermostat and have them kick on whenever you would like.

5) There are many coolant additives that help. Redline and Royal Purple (I think) are the two best products.

6) In HOT weather, like summer time, you can feel free to run a bit more water than 50/50. Try 60/40 or 70/30 if necessary. You can get a kit to test the ratio so you just drain a bit from your system and add DISTILLED water as necessary until you obtain the desired water/coolant ratio. Just make sure to get it back to 50/50 for the cooler seasons (fall, winter).

Good luck.

 

[Ghosted]

At this point i have no idea what could be the problem. I have a 1993 Laser RS w/T

I have done everything I can think of to try to solve the problem. It overheats when its just idling in park, for like 2 minutes or less.


There are no signs that my head gasket install went wrong, and everything looks tight for the reinstall.



So far to try to fix the overheating problem (and busted head gasket) I have replaced:

-Water Pump
-Radiator
-Thermostat
-Upper and Lower Intercooler Pipes & new clamps
-Removed and replaced gaskets on thermo elbow & cleaned everything


New Head Gasket
New Exhaust & Intake Gaskets
New spark plugs
New Wires
New Top End (professionally put together with a bunch of goodies)

And a bunch of other small stuff.


I do not have ABS or A/C as I have removed it.


I am so stumped here, I have no idea where to go next???

 

[doctor_shock10]

At this point i have no idea what could be the problem. I have a 1993 Laser RS w/T

I have done everything I can think of to try to solve the problem. It overheats when its just idling in park, for like 2 minutes or less.


There are no signs that my head gasket install went wrong, and everything looks tight for the reinstall.



So far to try to fix the overheating problem (and busted head gasket) I have replaced:

-Water Pump
-Radiator
-Thermostat
-Upper and Lower Intercooler Pipes & new clamps
-Removed and replaced gaskets on thermo elbow & cleaned everything


New Head Gasket
New Exhaust & Intake Gaskets
New spark plugs
New Wires
New Top End (professionally put together with a bunch of goodies)

And a bunch of other small stuff.


I do not have ABS or A/C as I have removed it.


I am so stumped here, I have no idea where to go next???

1st. question would be is youre coolant level right?

2nd. are your fans working right?

3rd. did you make sure your head wasnt warped?

oh ya and sometimes people buy thermostats brand new and their bad right out of the box so id check that too.

 

[92AWDTalonTSI]

+1 on warped heads. I'd be willing to bet they are if you are still having problems.

 

[Ghosted]

1st. question would be is youre coolant level right?

Oh yeah, premix all the way, it doesnt even really get time for even water to get hot though...

2nd. are your fans working right?

Yep, right now I have them both set to full boar whenever the engine is running too.

3rd. did you make sure your head wasnt warped?

The whole head is brand new.

oh ya and sometimes people buy thermostats brand new and their bad right out of the box so id check that too.

Oh really?? I will def check that, but again, would the thermo open so quickly? like this happens within 2 minutes, thats the really odd thing. And Im not getting any bubbles i can see in the oil, no leaks, and no funny smoke. (and its been sitting for a year, and still no funny smoke)


Do you think one cylinder not firing could be the culprit? maybe I should check my spark plug wires as well, i know there in there, but maybe not doing anything, would that even do something like that?

 

[tsi1991awd]

Check to see if you are running lean...that could make you run hotter than normal.

You didn't use RTV on your head gasket did you?

Also, easy way to see if the thermostat is working properly is to boil water on your stove and while you're waiting for it to boil, put your thermostat in and watch it. Put a thermometer in the water so you can see at what temp your thermostat is opening.

If the thermostat is working properly, you most likely have blockage in your cooling system. I would flush the cooling system. I pray that you didn't use RTV on your head gasket.

 

[doctor_shock10]

Check to see if you are running lean...that could make you run hotter than normal.

You didn't use RTV on your head gasket did you?

Also, easy way to see if the thermostat is working properly is to boil water on your stove and while you're waiting for it to boil, put your thermostat in and watch it. Put a thermometer in the water so you can see at what temp your thermostat is opening.

If the thermostat is working properly, you most likely have blockage in your cooling system. I would flush the cooling system. I pray that you didn't use RTV on your head gasket.

+1 on running lean, i totally forgot about that one!

 

[BLINKY619]

I pray that you didn't use RTV on your head gasket.

hahaha seen it happen...!!!! people these days...!!!!

 

[tsi1991awd]

That would be a mess and a half if the RTV dried over the coolant passages....or even worse, got sucked up into one and is now blocking the flow of coolant. Ouch...tear that motor apart again!

 

[Aproductions]

maybe try a different radiator cap, more water/less coolant, water wetter, try another thermostat, check into warped head, check coolant lines/passages, and are you running lean...do you have a wideband?


thats pretty much everything that could help.

 

[tsi1991awd]

You basically just said everything we already said...

 

[92AWDTalonTSI]

Ha! I just got my car about a week ago and I am still working out the kinks. The head was replaced by the PO. Well, his mechanic. And I can see RTV around the head and cam cover seals.

 

[tsi1991awd]

Cam seals don't need RTV. I see this so many times, holy crap. Like the guy I bought my car from...he had the FelPro PERMADRY gasket for the valve cover. You are NOT supposed to use RTV with it, it specifically says INSTALL DRY WITH NO RTV. What does he go and do? Puts goddamn RTV on it.

The VC was cracked anyways so when I replaced it, I installed a brand new gasket....DRY. Cam seals, same thing...doesn't need RTV.

95% of the shit people use RTV on....DOESN'T need to be RTV'd. The only real thing you should see RTV on is the goddamn oil pan....everything else there is a specific gasket for. Learn to tighten bolts correctly and you have no leaks, you know!?

 

[Aproductions]

You basically just said everything we already said...

yeah I said like 2 things and then added everyone elses ideas, now my post is like a checklist for him.

I wasn't trying to take credit for anyones idea, but thanks for being observant

Ha! I just got my car about a week ago and I am still working out the kinks. The head was replaced by the PO. Well, his mechanic. And I can see RTV around the head and cam cover seals.

he RTVed the valve cover on?

 

[doctor_shock10]

You basically just said everything we already said...

hahahahahaha! i dont think everyone reads all the post they just read the thread. funny shit tho

Cam seals don't need RTV. I see this so many times, holy crap. Like the guy I bought my car from...he had the FelPro PERMADRY gasket for the valve cover. You are NOT supposed to use RTV with it, it specifically says INSTALL DRY WITH NO RTV. What does he go and do? Puts goddamn RTV on it.

The VC was cracked anyways so when I replaced it, I installed a brand new gasket....DRY. Cam seals, same thing...doesn't need RTV.

95% of the shit people use RTV on....DOESN'T need to be RTV'd. The only real thing you should see RTV on is the goddamn oil pan....everything else there is a specific gasket for. Learn to tighten bolts correctly and you have no leaks, you know!?

haahahahahaha relax man! haahahah j/k i know what you mean tho for some reason people like short cuts.

 

[rstchris]

Do a leakdown check. Fix the misfire too. Is the oil fresh or 15k miles old?