Car Overheated / Overheating / Overheats [MERGED]

[NTRCOOL]

OVERHEATING? The issues and their solutions have remained the same- either you don't have enough cool air reaching the rad, there's a cooling system obstruction which is preventing coolant from circulating, or your head gasket has failed and is allowing coolant to be consumed or pushed away from the engine.

Discuss all possible overheating problems and solutions here.


OK,
I just left my house to go over to my GF's,and happen to look down and see my needle right before the red mark. This just happened out of nowhere. I stop the car as quickly as i can, and pour in some coolant(Coolant a little low). Still same thing. Welp im in the middle of the road, and HAD to get it home. Im only 5 min from my house. I decided to try and make it(I really had no other choice). Welp I drive no faster than 20mph, and the temp needle is BARELY into the red the whole way.And occasionaly to the left of it. Am I ok?? Do ya think any damage was done?? And im thinking either thermostat, or water pump. For each of those, whats a round about $$ figure to get replaced?? Any info you have would be GREATLY appreciated!

 

[jstgon]

Try getting a slimline fan to fit in there. Try to put it in between the fmic and the radiator. Set it up as a pusher not a puller in that case. This should help you get more air to cool both. You can get a nice cheap one on ebay.

 

[fwdmaster]

Get 2 12" spal 1250 cfm slim fans and your heating issue will be over

 

[92talontsibryce]

I know you said you checked the thermostat but I would go ahead and replace it with a 180* one for peace of mind. Also I would flush the coolant. It never hurts to clean your coolant system every now and then.

Bryce

 

[92talontsibryce]

Flush coolant, thermastat, radiator cap, and if still over heating add water wetter to your coolant. Those are the usual stuff..

Bryce

 

[cookmeup272]

I had a lot of overheating problems with my car. A new 180* thermostat, a new radiator cap, new mishimoto radiator with two fans wired to the battery, wrapped my headers, and i removed the center section in my headlights. Now my car never goes past half no matter how much i step on it

 

[91turbodsm]

It is new. I bought it just a couple months ago, if that.

Andrew

 

[jhood99]

Hey guys I have a problem with "overheating". I put quotations around it because i'm not actually sure it is overheating.But, when I turned off the car the coolant was boiling and the upper radiator hose was hot. The temp gauge goes up and down while I drive. After a while it will go up then I'll turn on the heat and it will go down. Its just a constant up and down.The temp has gone up on the highway while driving and also while idling I've changed the CTS , my water pump is ok ,both my fans work, my mechanic installed a new thermostat and nothing is fixing this problem.Currently I have spent a total of $650 at the Mitsubishi dealership to fix this problem and every time they say it's fixed , it's not and I have to drop it back off at the dealership. After picking it up today I have to drop the car back off tommorow. I included a video to show you guys exactly what I'm talking about. The video is one minute long, and I have the point the camera away for a moment , but please WATCH the whole video too see what exactly I'm talking about. You can clearly see the needle move from above the symbol , back to directly in the middle. The only thing I did was drive. I'm about to push my car off a cliff , can someone help me please because the asshole at mitsubishi cant. Thank you in advanced. Here is the videoYouTube - 1247877928

 

[ToughTalon]

OK well, its really late so Ill just regurgiate some info.... both fans will only work if you have the A/C on, one fan is for engine cooling the other is for the A/C condensor. FYI the temp of your coolant should be around 200-210 with a factory thermostat and coolant/thermostat cap, how did you know it was boiling? How do you know the water pump is OK?

Basicly we can speculate all day long, if you paid the dealership $650 dollars, take the car back and dont take NO for an answer. There is no reason you should pay any more money. The dealership is the one who will fix this problem. Period. Take the car back, talk to the manager and tell him to find a competant technician to fix your car correctly. You already did your part by paying all that cash. Take the car back, play 'hard ball', dont take NO for an answer and get what you paid for. Otherwise you got screwed, when the dealership took your money, they basicly said 'we will fix your car'. If the car isnt fixed, take it back. And dont pay them anymore money, the ball is in their court now.

 

[jhood99]

I can hear it boiling in the reserve tank. It vibrates it.

 

[ToughTalon]

It could be a bad radiator cap, the radiator cap is necessary to keep the coolant under pressure so it will boil under a higher temp. Either way, take the car back, I worked at a car dealership for six years and this would have NEVER happened at my dealership. Take it back and demand the car is fixed correctly.

 

[jhood99]

1st thing monday.

 

[DeadsEvolution1]

+1 on a the radiator cap! Also what thermostat are you running? 192 degree? 180?
If the dealership believes that the temp is fine than tell the manager you need to take a technician on a ride along to show them what is going on. All the money you have paid couldn't gotten you a new water pump, radiator, radiator cap, all new coolant, thermostat, and a radiator system flush.

 

[Hardin]

Yeah, check radiator cap. See if your fans are spinning. and also check thermostate. It's gotta be one of those..

-Hardin

 

[jhood99]

Now I have a new problem the car won't start.

 

[AlaskanDsm]

What happens when you try to start the car? Does it crank? Click at you? Does it sound like it wants to catch? We would need more info.

 

[mnetwork]

I was just picking up my car from a certain shop that did my new motor build among a few other things. Previously the car was running hot and was hard to tune. Knock was random and tunes weren't consistent. There was also what seemed to be a very faint noise coming from the bottom end.

I had the block hot tanked so everything was cleaned out, had Wiseco pistons installed, had eagle rods installed, crank was polished, head was cleaned and checked out, had BC valve springs and retainers installed along with BC 272 cams, had head decked, and had a mitsu mls headgasket installed. When taking a cruise in the car at around 65 with no boosting, the coolant temps go right up to 213. They would go up higher in the heat, but this was in the evening when it was cooler. The temps would start go down after cruising. This has been the same problem for the last year, temps go up when cruising. I was on the phone with the shop earlier today explaining the issue to them and they took the car and said they thought it wasn't actually running as hot as it was saying. They changed the coolant sensor and then said it was reading much lower right away. When I drove the car I didn't see a difference at all. I do no know what to do anymore with this, what could be the issue??? I am about to get rid of the car because it has been such a money pit and I feel like I am getting nowhere. Please give me some insight. Also was wondering if there was anyway a heater core could cause this...


Some side notes:
Tstat is a new OEM 180 degree
Water pump is also brand new
Radiator is a punishment racing aluminum radiator with shroud and two slim fans

 

[GS ice T]

I feel you since I recently had been combating high engine temps too. After my motor swap I started seeing my temps get to 230 if I sat idling in the sun for a while and I couldnt have that. So here's some of things I did to help the problem:

Make sure the slim fans are wired together and always on through link. I drained the coolant and ran some flush through it for a few days and thoroughly rinsed it out. I went with a bottle of water wetter with a 75/25 mix of water/coolant since it doesn't get lower than 20 degrees here in SC in the winter. I also cut out some bumper vents so the top of the radiator can get fresh air that doesnt have to pass through the intercooler. Heatwrapping the manifold should also help a lot but I only have my downpipe wrapped and I can actually touch the wrap after driving for a while so I believe in it. This with the 160 degree tstat I have, I stay about 170 most of the time and only get to about 200 if I sit idling on hot days in the sun now. Hope this helps.

 

[mnetwork]

I've done the whole water wettter and higher water mixture thing, never really helped. Everything has shields, even heat wrapped the water pipe by the turbo. Tried a 170 degree thermostat and all that did was delay the car getting into closed loop, but after it got there it would act the same again.

 

[USER_22]

Did you clean and check your sensor? Do you hear any pressure being release after the car is off?

 

[Nofear20]

I put a 170 degree tstat in, wired the fans to come on together, and set them to come on 20 degrees earlier through DSMLink. My temps at times will dip down to around 180 when before they hovered around 210 to 216..

The 170 tstat made a huge difference.

 

[mnetwork]

170 tstat didn't do anything for me, but delay the temps rising. I can leave fans on all the time in dsmlink and it will make some difference, but still not where it should be. The coolant temp sensor was replaced.

 

[MidnightTSI]

I'm curious what size/type of slim fans you are using and if you are pushing or pulling?
What CFM are you pulling (or pushing) through the rad?

Also are you positive the fans are doing what you think they are i.e. pushing or pulling?

I know the polarity needs to be changed and the fan blade flipped over to switch the direction of air flow for some fans.

I'm sure you probably have this correct it's just something I was thinking about. I hope you figure it out though best of luck

 

[luv2rallye]

The coolant temp sensor was replaced.

Which ECT sensor? The 2 wire one goes to the ECU (which controls fans) and the 1 wire one goes to the dash temp gauge.

 

[770eclipse]

check your radiator cap. If it is not holding pressure your coolant will boil at a cooler temperature. In turn heating up your engine faster. I had the same problem change the cap and it fixed it. You also need to make sure the fans are moving the air towards the back of the radiator.

 

[93blacktsi]

i just went through this not to long ago.here is what i did, i replaced my slim fans with the stock fan and ac fan combo.i wired them to stay on all the time and havent seen over 210 on the highway.