Car Overheated / Overheating / Overheats [MERGED]

[NTRCOOL]

OVERHEATING? The issues and their solutions have remained the same- either you don't have enough cool air reaching the rad, there's a cooling system obstruction which is preventing coolant from circulating, or your head gasket has failed and is allowing coolant to be consumed or pushed away from the engine.

Discuss all possible overheating problems and solutions here.


OK,
I just left my house to go over to my GF's,and happen to look down and see my needle right before the red mark. This just happened out of nowhere. I stop the car as quickly as i can, and pour in some coolant(Coolant a little low). Still same thing. Welp im in the middle of the road, and HAD to get it home. Im only 5 min from my house. I decided to try and make it(I really had no other choice). Welp I drive no faster than 20mph, and the temp needle is BARELY into the red the whole way.And occasionaly to the left of it. Am I ok?? Do ya think any damage was done?? And im thinking either thermostat, or water pump. For each of those, whats a round about $$ figure to get replaced?? Any info you have would be GREATLY appreciated!

 

[DSM_PWR]

1st
*Check to make sure your fans are on
*Do a compete radiator flush
*Replace thermostat...

If all else, your water pump is probably out...

 

[L0ckett]

"Are your fans turning on and off properly?" - Yes the fans do turn on and off appropriately

"The are over 400 thread on the overheating issue; http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/sear...archid=6547514." - Yes I did search but found no posts relevant to my situation. My car only starts overheating when in park, not while driving.

I'll try doing a radiator flush later this week once all this rain stops. If all else fails then I'll go ahead and replace the water pump. Thanks for the info. I'll keep you guys posted if that resolves my issue.

 

[Jaybird947]

Ok im kinda new at the posting thing so bear with me. I bought a 96 Talon tsi Awd and it started up and on the way home it overheated, blew the head gasket, and warped the head

I bought a new gasket and head and changed the whole valve train over. Now my car will not start. It cranks and wants to start back fires sometimes and thats it.

Comp. Check. Cyl.1=125 Cyl.2=125 Cyl.3=115 Cyl.4=100
I can smell fuel when tryin to start it.

No wire from CTS....Problem?

I'm pretty new to the turbo Dsm's.

Please help i've had this car for 3 WEEKS and havent been able to drive it.

 

[Dsmj89]

Compression seems a bit low, i'd get that fixed soon.
Also, are your spark plugs fouled out ? Is your firing order in place ? In case you don't know the firing order, it goes as follows on the coil pack from left to right : 4-1-2-3 and on the motor right to left is 1-2-3-4

 

[Jaybird947]

I'm positive the valves were installed correctly.
My Mechanic has a Tsi Fwd and it has Comp. of 125 across the board and fires up and drives fine.

The firing order is also correct.
and yes they are a little fouled out.

 

[rush2252]

Tolerance on the 4G63's is 129lbs. Did you have the head decked when you rebuilt it?

 

[Jaybird947]

i will tell him you said so Steveo

and i will try the new plugs and let you know. the Crank is exactly on TDC but the cam gears are off only like a fraction of a tooth. (steveo911)

and what is decked?(rush2252)

 

[1gDSM4g63]

"The are over 400 thread on the overheating issue; http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/sear...archid=6547514." - Yes I did search but found no posts relevant to my situation. My car only starts overheating when in park, not while driving.

Really... Idle Overheating! Guess that won't help.

 

[Jaybird947]

Ok. And does it matter if the Temp sensor is connected? will that keep it from starting

 

[stevo911]

Engine temperature sensor will keep it from starting. Coolant temp sensor will not.

 

[Jaybird947]

ok it's just the Cts. thanx a lot youve been really helpful.

Ill get the plugs tomorrow and let you know wut happens.

So igot the plugs and it's doing the same thing. Could the CAS be causing it not to start?

I mean I'm getting good spark but my friend said that maybe there is something up and the CAS is making it not fire at the right time.

I have no clue I'm desperate. I need a car bad.

 

[L0ckett]

1gDSM, okay you got me there. I must have skipped over that thread. But upon reading it and people saying that the factory gauges are not the most trustworthy, that's what I'm leaning towards. I went for a 15 minute drive across town earlier to pay some bills and when I pulled into the parking lot the gauge started reading that it was overheating but when I turned my headlights off the gauge dropped back down. Then I drove it another 20 minutes or so and when I parked the gauge read normally. I may end up replacing the thermostat anyways and doing a coolant flush and pick up a new gauge (and fuel gauge too as that goes on the fritz too) unless anyone can offer any other suggestions.

Edit: The past 2 days the car sometimes will overheat in park and sometimes it won't. When it does, if I rev it up to about 2500 rpm's the temp gauge goes back to reading normally. I'm not sure if this will be any relevance to anybody but I hope so. I'd just like to know what exactly is causing this.

 

[rush2252]

Decked basically means fabricated flush so the head is perfectly flat. I beleive so anyhow Im sure rush will be fast to straighten me out if im wrong .

Yes decked is slang for having a fraction of the block removed to make it once again level.The reason I asked if the block or head was decked is compression usually raises when you do this. Some people compensate by using a thicker HG when replacing. But if the head was decked or resurfaced so to speak you should be seeing higher amounts of compression. The tolerance according to all data is no more than 14lbs of difference between the 4 cylinders. Youve got 25 on ONE cylinder. If the head was rebuilt then usually the head is decked as well even if its mm's 100lbs of compression on one cylinder is enough for it to not run great as for starting that should be enough to at least start the car. I drove one 50 miles runnings 75lbs of compression(3 cylinders) after it dropped a cylinder.

Im assuming this thing still has the 2g 7bolt motor and 2g head? Snap a quick pic of the engine bay perferably the passenger side of the valve cover. If the CAS is bad then you should be getting fire at all. The easiest way to see if its sending signal to the ECU is to plug in a scantool and see if your showing and rpm reading while cranking. If so then your Crank sensor is reading if not then your having issues.

Post up a pic.. if somebody but a 6bolt in it w the 1g head then the CAS is up on the valve cover/head pass side and this acts as a CAM/CAS it tells coils when to fire and injectors when to pulse.

What do you mean bump it??

Basically saying "please help etc etc." Updating by saying the plugs didnt fix it really isnt bumping its just keep us posted. I think he meant more along the lines of adding another reply as to get your thread back to the 1st page of the forums. When somebody posts another reply it shows the link to your topic as active (brighter color of blue) and moves it back towards the top of the list where more people can see it. Some people "bump" their thread in hopes a new reader will come along and read it and add some more input, but it makes it a PITA to get good info because you have to spend hours hunting for posts sometimes because people add useless info to old threads etc making it difficult to tell who needs help and whose just whoring threads.

 

[Jaybird947]

its a 7bolt head and block. The Cam sensor is behind the intake cam gear. and i didnt have the head rebuilt i bought a completely different head. it was ported and polished. and it lays on the block really well.

Did a leak down on cyl. 4 and there is air coming back through the dipstick tube.
all the other cyl. hold compression.

and btw cyl. 4 is only losing about 20% of the pressure put in.

 

[rush2252]

Ugh why didnt I think of this before!!!!!!!!!! Recheck your timing.. .if your getting fuel and fire both then the CAM sensor and Crank Sensor are not in time thus the plugs are firing before or after the injectors are pulsing. I would put my paycheck on this one

You did pull the head and remove the timing belt its only logic that you probably are off on the timing it happens If I had time Id tell you a long story about stayin up for 20hrs trying to swap a 420 in an NA car that wouldnt start it was so far out of time that the Crank sensor wouldnt read.. long story short I should have double checked timing before putting it in because guy before me change water pump and timing belt and then it sat for 4 years bc it wouldnt run...

If the air is leaking back through the dipstick tube somebody ported too far and got into the oil passage. I would assume that your going to have issues with cylinder 4 either filling with oil or other issues due to this. That is if you get it running.

 

[jrohner]

If your coolant temp sensor is not connected, no it won't start. 100psi of compression is enough to start and run just fine; lower compression makes em a little doggier when not in boost and they spool slower but once the boost hits it doesn't matter much.

 

[Jaybird947]

Ok. the timing is only off a fraction on the cam gears. the oil pump and crank are on TDC. the cam gears are the only thing that are off at all.

 

[rush2252]

Ok. the timing is only off a fraction on the cam gears. the oil pump and crank are on TDC. the cam gears are the only thing that are off at all.

Fix it. Timing can only be adjusted by the ECU like +/- 3* if your more than one tooth off then your screwed. At one tooth retarded the NA cars will run but with a huge decrease in power etc. The turbo cars may not notice the effects as much but if its more than a tooth id set it correctly. Its not going to hurt it to have it Exact

 

[Jaybird947]

I know its not even a tooth off on the cam gears though.

 

[snowborder714]

Line up the inside timing marks with the dowel pins up. If they line up with each other, look "through" them and see if they line up with the valve cover gasket. If they do, verify that your other timing marks are still good (crank sprocket and oil pump sprocket). If so, then you're good.

 

[Jaybird947]

well i have aftermarket "evo" cam gears.

Here is a pic of them.

 

[snowborder714]

You can still do as I said. I can see the white timing marks on there and the dowel pins are still there. If the cam gears are advanced/retarded, this could cause an issue though. I would set them back to zero if they are, just to verify your timing.

 

[Jaybird947]

ok i will try. but it will be tonight or in the morning because my car is at our shop and dont have a car
but i will keep everyone updated thanx again.

Ok. it is in time but my friend called Fidanza and they said that the gears are a little off. im just gettin stock cam gears and putting it in time with them.

 

[mnetwork]

Ok, here is a rundown of my overheating issues that I've been plagued with for a while now...

Ever since I started really logging a lot on DSMLink I've been keeping track of things like coolant temps ALL time time. I've had my fans set to be on and on full blast all the time in DSMLink all winter and up to now. Even in the winter if the car sits idling the temps will go up. When it was really cold it wouldn't go up that much. After I installed my new Punishment Radiator I started watching temps even more. This is what happens:

In the dead of winter I can have the fans set on to full blast all the time and temps will still never go below 193-196. If I don't have the fans set to on in DSMLink and I let the ecu control them the temps will go up.

If I drive the car and let it idle (even for 2 min) at a light temps will go up. When it is cool out low 50's the temps will get up to 200-203, maybe 206 if I was beating on the car prior. This is with both fans set to full blast, I always have them on. As soon as I rev or start driving, they drop down again to 193-196. Usually down shifting or high revving brings coolant temps down. It always seems like higher the revs the colder the coolant for the most part. Temps climb very fast at idle if I don't have the fans on full blast. Another thing is that on a mild day (below 70's) doing a pull on the highway will usually lower coolant temps from the revving.

Today I took a 1 1/2 hour trip to the beach and it was pretty hot out (mid/high 80s). On the way temps slowly started climbing (even with fans on the whole time in DSMLink). A few times they got up to 220 and they were at 216 for a lot of this. When I finally go to the beach some how temps dropped to 196 when I parked which was weird and when I opened the engine bay the coolant hoses were soft to the touch and didn't feel pressurized like normal, weird. On the way home temps pretty much never went below 210.

Last spring I did the head gasket, so it is not that. I don't have any other issues or weird things going on with the car. I have a nice new Punishment Racing aluminum radiator with shroud and two 12" slim fans that are ALWAYS on full blast, a brand new thermostat, a higher than stock pressure radiator cap (Greddy), custom turbo shield, 50/50 water and coolant mix with Water Wetter, and a JF Fab manifold shield. I have never changed the water pump since I had the car, but nothing is leaking from it.

I was starting to think maybe the water pump impeller is corroded or broken. I find it very weird that at low rpm (idle) temps climb so fast, but revving a little brings them down. I wanted to get some opinions before I change the water pump for no reason. Also, the car has NEVER had good heat at all. The heat barely works. When the coolant temps are very high, the heat will feel like normal heat.

 

[95 'clipse RS]

have you ever noticed any corrosion or gunk in the coolant? from when a previous owner tried stop leak junk. some people pour too much in and it clogs up coolant passages in the head and block and heater core. also you said your car has never had good heat, sounds like your heater core may be clogged with something. have you ever had the cooling system flushed?