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car not starting after swap.

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91_4g63t

Proven Member
34
0
Nov 14, 2013
peyton, Colorado
I recently swapped the motor from a 93 talon tsi into a 92 gsx for reasons of the chassis. Well everything is bolted up and plugged in. Well car just cranks and will not catch.

The mods. 20g turbo with a 3in gm maf and translator. The fuel pump is stock but it re wired straight to battery and battery is relocated to trunk. Is there something i could be missing?? Motor ran when it was in the 93. So im guessing its electrical. If anyone can shed some light on this problem let me know. Thanks.

Narrowed it down to no fuel at injectors. Fuel is getting past filter but car wont start. Timing is good spark is good. Tested with btake cleanr and car starts but then dies a couple seconds later. Any help would be good.
 
First I would start with testing the mfi relay then move on down the ignition path.
Did you swap the ecu's? Not sure if the 92 & 93 differ much but, wouldn't hurt to check...
 
Yea tried 3 different ecu, switched the resister, switched mpi. I think its the fuel rail not reciving the right pressure. I switched out fuel pump to a 255 and injectors to 660. The car stumbles but doesnt start. So now i know i need an adjustable regualtor. Thats where im at right now. Unless the injectors are not reciving a signal. Thanks
 
hmmm... i re-read over your post 4 times before giving advice, unfortuantely i can only give you a simple answer which would be to double check your connectors and check the condition of the wiring harness, we already know that this motor has ran before so we know there's nothing wrong with it and as you have already stated that it is an electrical connector issue.

only link i can give you which im sure you have seen before.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/217951-how-diagnose-no-start.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/329680-no-fuel-injectors.html

i wish i could be of more help but your a bit out of my area code = O
 
Anything helps man, even if ut rules something out. I appriciate you guy's. I picked up a 150psi regulator with gauge. Will be putting it in here shortly. Also picked up an exhaust included, win. I will keep you guys posted. If this doesnt work then i only have one option, swap the harness.thanks guys
 
Yea its definatly pumping. Have not wired up a kill switch yet so i have to pull the fuse everytime. But after the pumps running, i disconnect the feed line and theres no pressure. You can hear the gas flowing back. If im not mistaken, with my first talon the fuel would spray when disconnecting the line after its been primed.

Says you are in the springs. You still out there, thats pretty close to me.
 
Well im not sure what else this issue could be. I got as far as getting it to start but it wont idle. It just dies almost instantly. Getting really irritating. If anyone can shed some light on this, it would be greatly appriciated.
 
Done a boost leak test?\

Pull the vacuum lines off of the FPR and see if theres any fluid in them. Could be a faulty regulator. I'd also try replacing the fuel pump. Sounds like it could have a faulty check valve.
 
If the pump is running and you're not getting pressure, maybe the pump isn't seated properly in the sending unit. My suggestion is to check the oring and make sure it's sealed. :confused:
 
Tried a 255 pump and the stock. The first time the o ring was not seated properly and i could hear the gas falling back into the tank. Fixed that and you can hear it catch pressure now but no dice. Im going to replace the cas tonight and try a different stock regulator. Thanks guys.

Pulled the cas today and spun it. You can here the ecu click and the injectors getting a pulse. Timed it at tdc and still just starts and then dies.
 
Hi ,

I would double check the wire connection to the resistor pack and the IAC. They are identical connectiors if I remember correctly and they can be swapped easily.
 
The plugs are right I double checked thank you.
So I got the pressure regulator installed. I plugged the pump in and adjusted pressure to 42psi. It still does the same trying to turn over. I used brake cleaner and it starts but immediately dies once the brake cleaner is gone.

Here are my findings. The pressure immediately drops straight to 0psi once the pump is shut off. Also the pumped is wired to the battery but it sounds like the pump shuts off when the car is trying to turn over. I'm not sure about the wiring. Has it wired to a relay but when you unplug the pump from the cars original wire harness, it shuts off. Even though it has a power line straight to the relay, which goes to the pump directly. Same with the ground.
 
I do not know if you can see that but does the car build fuel pressure as you crank?
If not then something going on with inside wiring/ or a cam sensor issue / wiring if the pump is not bad. So whenever you crank the car you should receive a signal on the wire for the pump to go on.
 
No the pressure seems to drop, and the pump sounds like it shuts off when cranking the motor. I'm going to wire the pump back to factory and see if that works. If not then I'm out of ideas.
 
Ok then the only thing that could be is.

The ECU does not see the crank signal from the CAS ( I guess you have 1G CAS) to activate the MPI relay to start the pump. (But you said if you spin the CAS you hear the injectors firiing so that can not be it)

Wiring from MPI relay back. The simplest thing that I can think of is a bad ground when fuel rewire was done or a bad relay.

One thing to check is the signal wire to the pump should be 12V when cranking ( thats the wire that will close the relay). If thats good then its got to be the relay or the wiring that was done.
 
When you turn the cas shaft the pump should kick on, the injectors should fire and the plugs should spark. You need to stop replacing parts and get to basics. Before anything, do a compression test. While you have the plugs out check for spark on them by turning the cas shaft with the ignition on. If you have spark on all 4 next is to find out if all 4 injectors are firing. Do this by unhooking all of them and hook up one at a time and turn the cas shaft. If all 4 injectors are firing, and all 4 cylinders firing than the cas is fine, and you need to then look into the fuel system or valve timing. There was no need to buy an aftermarket regulator. You could of bought a fuel pressure tester and an an adapter that replaced the banjo bolt in the pump all for around 30 bucks. Adding aftermarket parts to diagnose a problem only complicates the situation. If the pressure is immediatly dropping to zero after power is cut than either the regulator is leaking it back into the return line, the o ring on the pump is bad, or the pump itself is bad.
 
Wired back to stock still same problem.

Like I said before compression is good, timing is good, cas is good, injectors are firing, pump is running. I switched out three stock fpr before I added an adjustable one with a gauge. Its getting spark, relays are good, new fuel pump and filter.

Somethings not holding pressure somewhere. Regulator is good,came off a running car. Everything is grounded where it should be. I don't know what else to check.
 
Wired back to stock still same problem.

Like I said before compression is good, timing is good, cas is good, injectors are firing, pump is running. I switched out three stock fpr before I added an adjustable one with a gauge. Its getting spark, relays are good, new fuel pump and filter.

Somethings not holding pressure somewhere. Regulator is good,came off a running car. Everything is grounded where it should be. I don't know what else to check.

There is nothing else to check, if it won't hold pressure it is either the regulator, pump, or pump oring. Those are the only possibilities.
 
I got tired of pulling the pump and checking that o ring. So I decided to rig it up like a Honda. Just a hose clamped to pump and then to the line. That holds pressure now very nicely. Now I found a leak on my filter. Changed the filter for a new one and yet again it leaks at the threads.
I rigged it up with a barb fitting and a rubber hose to both ends clamped down. Now just waiting for gasket material to dry.
I don't know if that leak is what caused the pressure to drop straight to 0 when I cut the pump.

Well looks like this can't be solved for some reason. I've had different mechanics dsm owners and forums yet No one can find the issue.

First dsm I have to give up on ### of its notorious no start issues.

I've changed out everything that it could be with stock parts that came off working 1g. It can't be this impossible. Motor ran great in the 93 talon.
 
I call bs. There is no car that CANT BE FIXED. You just aren't listening to advise that you are given and making assumptions. Does the car have pressure now that you rigged it up? I don't see how thousands of other people can seal a pump in a housing and your mechanics cant or how there are thousands of these cars out there running fine and yours magically can't be fixed.
 
I call bs. There is no car that CANT BE FIXED. You just aren't listening to advise that you are given and making assumptions. Does the car have pressure now that you rigged it up? I don't see how thousands of other people can seal a pump in a housing and your mechanics cant or how there are thousands of these cars out there running fine and yours magically can't be fixed.

I did what he did with the hose from the pump to the pipe one time. Learned really quick that rubber fuel li e doesn't hold up to being submerged in fuel. Split all the way up and wasn't holding pressure. But I wasn't going to spoon fees him. I was waiting to see if he had the motivation to pull the pump again and try to find the problem. But if he didn't, I was going to offer him 300 for it since it wasn't fixable... Lol
 
When you turn the ignition on the pump runs and pressure rises. Does this pressure immediately drop to zero? Or do you have to crank the engine ,it tries to start,and then zero?
 
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