Car not cranking after battery relocation

[NHerron]

Damn! Super fail on my part! The picture is a google image. I was just looking for a clear shot at the back of the starter so the OP knows what I was talking about.

You're right, that picture is verryyy wrong. I think I remember this picture from another thread where the OP had the starter hooked up wrong. Anyway- The two cables hooked up there in the picture is the positive and negative cables. One (negative) should be bolted to the transmission bolt which holds the starter in place. Other cable is the positive and it goes to the right hand side stud. The left stud will be left alone, it feeds the actual starter motor coils +12V once the two copper studs are bridged together via the starter solenoid.

 

[foxracing4500]

Damn! Super fail on my part! The picture is a google image. I was just looking for a clear shot at the back of the starter so the OP knows what I was talking about.

You're right, that picture is verryyy wrong. I think I remember this picture from another thread where the OP had the starter hooked up wrong. Anyway- The two cables hooked up there in the picture is the positive and negative cables. One (negative) should be bolted to the transmission bolt which holds the starter in place. Other cable is the positive and it goes to the right hand side stud. The left stud will be left alone, it feeds the actual starter motor coils +12V once the two copper studs are bridged together via the starter solenoid.

question for you, the black/yellow wire, after the relocation where is the best place to ground this wire? straight to the firewall? I have it set up like this, blk/ylw is connected to bell housing then to firewall. Just been thinking alot about my hard cranking problems.

 

[NHerron]

Yeah that's a good way to do it. There's also a ground strap that runs from the intake manifold to the firewall. It's a smaller wire, I think 10gauge black with yellow stripe

 

[ishnish]

Yeah I would be fine with that stock cable for just that short distance then



I'm not 100%. I read a bit a couple separate nights and I just got from one member that they had it fused because the fusebox he bought was all ready for a fuse so he stuck one in there anyway. He basically didn't mean to have it fused, it just happened to work out that way. And by all the way back to the back do you mean it's more likely possible for the cable to be shorted to ground since it's been extended? Yeah it's possible and not a bad idea for the fuse but normally battery cable has veryyy thick insulation to prevent problems. Unless you're like my sisters idiot boyfriend and route the cable along the door pivot point, you shouldn't have any problems that I can forsee. That route I imagine you took (along the floorboard) is all powdercoated, no one puts pressure from their feet directly there and no moving parts nearby.

I could have swore that a few people who had diagramed their plans had fused distribution boxes for their + wires that ran all the way to the positive battery terminal in the back. And yes that was exactly what I meant. So I figured the fuse wouldn't be a bad idea anyway and why it made sense to put a fuse judging from the posts I saw . I guess I ended up fusing it by accident as well . Yes, no pressure from the feet at the location where I ran my wire .

Picture attached. 1, 2, or 3 does not connect to eachother in any way other than being loomed together. 1a and 1b is the same wire and so on with 2a/b, 3a/b. All the wires are held together with electrical tape and a few pieces of 1" looming.

See, I didn't know this at first. If I knew this sooner, I probably would have done things a bit differently. But, I'm happy with what I have as it looks very clean right now so I can't complain.