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can't shift into 2nd at high rpm and grinds into 3rd??

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sleepypsi

15+ Year Contributor
32
0
Mar 3, 2008
Star, North Carolina
I have a 1990 eagle talon tsi awd 5spd
I can't shift my car into 2nd gear at high rpms and it will grind going into 3rd. Sometimes I can just barely shift into 2nd if I pull it hard and push the clutch hard as hell. At low rpms its still hard to shift but it'll go better. The car has a act2600 clutch, I've replaced the slave cylinder, and the master cylinder looks new. I adjusted the clutch/master cyl rod all the way out. I bled the clutch and slave cylinder. Any ideals?? Whats it like when a syncro goes out??


Thanks for any info! I ran a 14.3 on a 2.2 60 ft and it took me about a second to shift into 2nd so I know theres room for improvement.
 
You are going to need a rebuild, the 90 transmissions are the worst. If you pick up any other year transmission, the shifter linkage on the trans will be different and will have to be modified to work.
 
Sounds to me like you have a bad fork or pivot or both. In a '90 it is a safe bet that you can not waste money by rebuilding the thing and replacing all of the associated clutch parts.

Yep, i had the exact same symptoms, thought it was the tranny going bad, but turned out the clutch pivot ball was worn and broken off in the arm. I replaced them both Adan the tranny shifted like butter until i started making some good power and blew 3rd Adan 4th gears out of it.

But check the pivot ball and arm first. you should be able to grab it and it shouldn't wiggle much if any at all. If you can move it more than a millimeter or 2 it's worn. If it moves all over the place then it's broken the ball right off. That's what mine did.

Also check your master and slave cylinders for your clutch, see if there are leaks or presence of fluid around the rubber boot on the slave (pull the boot back, if fluid comes out it's leaking and bad). To check the slave, put your head under the dash and look up at where the rod goes through the firewall from the clutch pedal, if there's fluid leaking down the firewall inside down to the foot area then you need a master. Usually both of them go within a few weeks to a month or 2 from each other so if one's leaking replace them both if you can afford it to avoid taking it apart and bleeding it again in a month. If either one is leaking and the clutch isn't disengaging enough it will do the same thing. I went through several of them in the 5 years I've had the ACT2600.

And while checking everything. check your adjustment at the pedal last. if you start playing with adjustment first, you may just be helping to hide a bigger underlying problem that needs addressed and could leave you stranded out on the road.

EDIT: if you weren't told to get the extended rod when you got the clutch DONT GET IT!! They are only supposed to be used with one or 2 certain clutches, and can be harmful to use on ones that don't need it. From what i understand it can push too far on the clutch causing the PP to warp. But i would think it can cause slipping in a 1g believe since they don't have the fluid return valve setup in them. The second part is just my thoughts, the warping is what I've heard.
 
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