Cant get Exhaust housing off Holset.

[FUNWHEELDRIVE]

Ive searched but cant find anything. I have a Big H1C with the stock dodge exhaust housing on it... and i cant seem to get it off. I have taken off the 4 bolts attaching it to the CHRA but i can get it off... and i have taken every other part of the turbo apart aswell. Am i missing something? Or is it just oxidized on there real good? any ideas or other threads relating to this how i can get it off?

Also the CHRA for the HIC only has 4 holes to bolt into the housing, and if im correct the HX36 has 6? do i need to drill 2 more to bolt it onto the BEP housing?

and where has everyone bout the oil feed lines? i cant seem to find that either. or should i get a custom one made?

thanks

 

[LiquidX]

If you are talking about the turbine housing, mine was a pain in the rear as well. Usually a lot of build up occurs and you just need to break it free. I searched on here and found out that it's good to soak the sealing area in pb blaster or some sort of liquid wrench.

Reinstall the bolts that would be used to hold the turbine housing on without the plates. You only need 4 bolts total, 2 screwed in and 2 above the ones screwed in. You'll just have them on top of eachother. As you unscrew the installed bolts, the top bolt will be pressed up onto the compressor back plate. Unscrew them evenly and the center section will be pressed out from the turbine housing.

You may need to find some longer bolts to use if the stock ones aren't long enough for the top bolt.

Hope this helps


As for the housing, I can't help you out there and I havne't done enough reading on the oil feed yet. Just be sure to make a -12AN drain line.

 

[FUNWHEELDRIVE]

Yes i know about the -12an i just dont know where to get the fitting or the weld bungs. im going to town tomorrow to see if i can get a cutom one made at a hose facility.
I unscrewed the bolts, 2 of them come all the way up, and the other 2 press against the CHRA, i did try to unsrew them even more to hopefully press it out but i cant budge them anymore.

I will try soaking it.

 

[toofast82]

Be sure the turbine housing comes off straight and doesn't chip the turbine wheel

When I ran a holset with bolt-on years back, i had to get garrett t3 clips to use to mount the turbine versus the holset ones. I don't know if bullseye has changed that in the casting process since i did it though. That was about 4years ago btw.

For the oil line, a -4an feed will work. Slowboy and others sell the fitting to the centersection but i think it was 12mm/-4an?

 

[FUNWHEELDRIVE]

Be sure the turbine housing comes off straight and doesn't chip the turbine wheel

When I ran a holset with bolt-on years back, i had to get garrett t3 clips to use to mount the turbine versus the holset ones. I don't know if bullseye has changed that in the casting process since i did it though. That was about 4years ago btw.

For the oil line, a -4an feed will work. Slowboy and others sell the fitting to the centersection but i think it was 12mm/-4an?

Im not sure, the clips with the housing i have (just arrived about a week ago) look like they will work, but i wont know till i get the housing off. for the oil feed,
I wont be using SBR, they are horrible. i found one on Extremepsi though which i think i will order.

Thanks for all the quick replies

 

[LiquidX]

For the drain

Turbo Flanges & Gaskets, T6 / S400 Oil Drain Flange, RPS-T6ODF | RacePartSolutions.com
Weld-On Bungs, Steel Male Weld Bung, FRA5971 | RacePartSolutions.com

 

[kp116]

For soaking if PB blaster or other penatrants doesn't work you might want to try and 50/50 mixture of acetone and Dex III trans fluid. I know on the bep housings the bolts always seize in them. I soaked then for a day and they came out like butter!

 

[FUNWHEELDRIVE]

i will try that... soaked it in pb blaster, and nut cracker, and havent been able to budge it.

thanks alot!!

 

[jjrock5]

I just pulled mine off three days ago. i was in the exact sutuation that you were in.

I went to wamlart and bought a a soldering torch.

Looks like this

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I heated the TURBINE HOUSING itself going around its circumference where it mates to the CHRA for a few minutes. This helps to expand the metal away from the CHRA. Then I grabbed a nice strong mallet and whacked it a total of three strong tries the sombitch fell separated. I yelled, "you were just made my biatch!!!" and continued with my projects.

 

[FUNWHEELDRIVE]

awesome idea im going to grab one right now and try that before soaking it for another whole day

 

[turbo addict]

I just did one a month ago. PB blaster and a BFH. I would have bet that I was going to break it I was hitting it so hard. This was after soaking overnight. Dont be afraid to beat the crap out of it. I had a 4lb mini sledge.

 

[LiquidX]

Did you try the double bolt setup?

 

[DirtyBirdRacing]

Have your buddy hold the turbo by the compressor housing with the turbine housing on the bottom.

Make sure they ara holding it vertical. Make sure you have all the bolts/clamps off for the turbine housing. Apply Kroil or the similar to the turbine housing to CHRA flange.

Hit turbine housing with hammer repeatedly.

For turbos that have run a long amount of hours, espically on a diesel application this is the "accepted" method.

Bill

 

[FUNWHEELDRIVE]

hit MANY countless times with the hammer, and soaked it for 2 days and it still didnt come. but i bought a torch and heated the bastard up.... as i almost gave up and was gunna soak it in another solvent, i hit it a few more times (it was very very hot) and i felt it move a bit. and than i got it off!

If i were to do it again, i would heat it and soak it while its hot (so the solvent can seep in there easier) and than heat it up and hit it as hard as you can


Thanks for all the help!

 

[jjrock5]

Glad you got it!!! Heat is your friend!!!