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Can't adjust master cylinder rod.

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white92tsi

Proven Member
48
2
Mar 15, 2014
De Soto, Kansas
I just installed an ACT 2600 (briefly used) into my 92 TSI. Of course, the clutch engages almost right off of the floor. I read that the master cylinder rod might need to be adjusted, and attempted to do so, but even after backing the nut off, it won't turn at all. I did notice a small amount of fluid coming from around the boot.

Would a bad (or going bad) master cylinder cause the rod to pretty much refuse to turn? It's the original 1g cylinder and rod (from what I can tell) and it appears to be turned out from the assembly (towards the cylinder) about as far as it can go anyway.

I also read or heard about an extended push rod for the slave cylinder. Do these work pretty well?

Thanks!
 
Wiggling the pedal slightly up and down while turning the rod helps a lot.
If fluid is leaking out of the boot, the master is bad. The slave is likely bad too if it hasn't been replaced, and other things that are likely to be bad if they weren't replaced with the clutch are the pivot ball and fork at the transmission, and if the step height of your flywheel wasn't checked and verified to be at .610 before the clutch was installed, youre in trouble there as well.
The extended slave rod is garbage.
Also, if you push the clutch pedal to the floor, allow the pedal to return, then grab the pedal and pull up and the pedal comes up any, the entire pedal assembly is worn out and will need to be rebuilt.
I apologize for being the bearer of potentially bad news, but these are things that must be checked and addressed if youre wanting your clutch to function properly so that you don't destroy your transmission by driving the car with a dragging clutch that isn't releasing completely due to worn out parts in the system.
The ACT 2600 really pushes every part to its limit in terms of wear and tear, so in order for this clutch to function properly, everything has to be in perfect working order.
 
Looks like I will be replacing most of the system. The clutch pedal does come up a bit more if you pull on it, but only a fraction of an inch. I'll start with the master and slave and go from there.
 
Do those and do the pedal assembly, cause the pedal assembly is what will cause the most trouble, and youll never get the clutch to release completely with a worn assembly, and if the clutch isnt releasing, your synchros will be trying to slow down the engine instead of the transmission, and they will fail rather quickly and every gear will begin to grind.
One other thing to check if your flywheel step height has been verified at .610, is the position of the fork where it comes out of the transmission. Grab the fork and push it toward the passenger side of the car just until the TOB makes contact with the fingers of the pressure plate. Observe the position of the fork, is the center toward the driver side or passenger side of the car relative to the window in the transmission? You want it to be either centered, or toward the driver side, and if its not, you need to either shim the pivot ball with a 1- 2mm washer, or replace the fork and ball.
 
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